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I think it's 3 11/16" if I'm not mistaken...

I recently replaced my distributor module, cap, & rotor, ignition coil and fuel injectors, however, during the replacement I stopped for the night and went home... Upon return my sister had apparently tried to start my car (to take it for a test drive) removing it from TDC... I put the dist...

Damn... Stupid tool... or me...

I finally had the car puttering along (getting too much gas I believe, but that's another post) and it started making a hardcore sucking sound... so I shut it off, never to start again... (flooded, me thinks) but this has lead me to believe that one of my converted vacuum connections is jacked...

I was testing the fuel pressure in the car, except, I'm not getting any with the tester and the valve I have it hooked into... where I'm jacked in is on the pass side of the water pump fuel line... should there be a different plug I'm going into?

The allen screw/bolt is on the opposite side of the connecting end to the fuel rail, usually right by the vacuum connection on the top, directly in the center on most... if you still have problems finding it, pm me and I'll send you a pic of mine

I have a ARP gauge, all the auto shops were closed so I couldn't get a hose/connector... thanks for the help guys!

I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (and no fuel pressure gauge...) the directions were vague... to say the least, they stated to set the pressure to 47lbs and adjust from there... so I put it in, fired it up, and it didn't fire up - it pushed so much fuel in that the garage reaked of...

That'd be quite helpful! It cracked when I had one set of cork gaskets in... don't I need to switch to rubber to put 2 sets of gaskets in? Anyway, I'll try the mock up... Thanks for all the help!

Since I'm a novice, if I do put the go to a pick a part yard and tear one out, & throw it on my car after cutting out and re-jbwelding the baffel back on, any suggestions so I don't jack it (f-it up) up too badly? I'd have to get a new valve cover from the junk yard... since my old one is...

I think I may try taller VC's, if they have a problem fitting under the GT-40 intake, I'll put the spacer I didn't want to put in, that may give enough room, and since then it wont fit under the hood, I'll just cut a hole in the top of the hood for now... until tax refund time and I get a...

Any other ideas?

here's a link to something like the rocker arms I bought (edit: link revised to the acutal part, not all comp cams ra's)

I could use a little advice on this one... I got my engine put together... with my minimal mechanical ability, this is a monumental feat... however, since I put larger rocker arms in 1.6'ers and tried to turn it over, the valve cover on the pass side has cracked... crapola right below the oil...

I'll drink to that, as I myself have the explorer intake... ($200 for upper/lower) But correct me if I'm wrong, the cobra, the upper and lower can be ported, however the GT-40, only the lower can be... would it be benificial to have both ported on his cobra intake...

Awesome, thanks much, your my hero!

I had to use double nuts with a ratchet allen set and a vice to get mine off... I was afraid to use heat, but it worked... stupid red loctite

P.S. One of them runs to the MAP sensor, since I'm just finished the Mass Air conversion (so I think, anyway) it would be plugged, so I would only use 1-Y connector into the existing (metal) "hose"

First, thanks to everyone who helped me with my many problems with rocker arms... Now I'm changing from the stock intake (88 stang 5.0) to a GT-40 intake, the lower went on fine, no problems there, but when I started putting the upper intake in, I noticed there are a few differences in the...

I have stud mounted rocker arms, and I am about to tighten them down, however, each arm is at a different thread count from the top... does it matter if I torque them down to the same but have them at different elevations or should I tighten them down to the same level and throw some thread lock...