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Thanks, Chythar. I just got in the car to do what you suggested, started it up to pull in the garage, and it was gone. Not sure if it's the 110 degree heat or if it requires a certain number of startups with it clear to turn the light out, but it's now gone.

Ok, so my airbag light is flashing code 34. I also had fuse 4 blown. I have replaced the fuse and it is fine. Code 34 is driver side airbag low resistance or short. I have tested the connector. With it unplugged, it reads .02 ohms. With it plugged in, it reads between 1.4 and 2.2 ohms. It is my...

Try another battery. Had one that did the same thing. Then the ticking went away, after more cranking attempts. Put it on a charger overnight. Same thing in the morning, Took it to get tested, it passed the battery test. Got another one anyway, and it started.

Make sure your harmonic balancer is still good.

Find another tuner.

Have you checked for a vac leak? Enough unmetered air, and it will run lean. You will also have idle issues. Do you have any codes?

How did you verify fuel and spark? Did you verify that the rotor was pointing to the #1 wire when the #1 cylinder was at TDC?

Yes, the TFI was replaced, and the old one tested good. Apparently, it was a short. I had a section of wire loom removed about 10 inches up the wiring harness. I removed it to trace a wire when it wouldn't turn over (details in a seperate post). There is a wire thats wrapped in aluminum...

Solved. After getting spark when I ground the pin in the TFI, I figured the TFI must not be getting a signal. So I checked the TFI wiring harness and found the problem. Starts and runs now. Thanks for the help.

Well, the problem is I have no spark when cranking. I have it when I manually ground the coil pin on the TFI harness. Yes, the fuel filter was changed when I dropped the tank to drain the old fuel. The filter was clogged, which is why it stopped running in the first place (I believe). I had 0...

Update: So i unplugged the TFI, and grounded the Coil - pin in the harness, and got spark at the Coil. So the coil is fine.

Update: The only DTC I have is 564. Thats expected since I don't have the A/C stuff hooked up yet.

Update: The low TPS voltage was erroneous. My back probe pin was loose, giving a low reading. Actual voltage is fine. The reference voltage is 4.8.

Update: Rechecked TPS, from control pin to negative battery terminal .976 volts. From control pin to the plug ground pin that goes to the EEC, .420 volts. High resistance in the wire??? Could this cause it not to start? Thanks.

Okay, I rebuilt the 302 in my Mustang. Got everything hooked up, and started it. It was runnning for about 5 min, although not very smooth. I was running old gas through it, about 2.5 years old. Then, all of a sudden, it died. After that, it would not start again. I checked fuel pressure, 0psi...

Maybe this checklist will help. http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/cranks-ok-but-no-start-checklist-for-fuel-injected-mustangs.787471/

95 V6 is OBDII 95 V8 (GT/Cobra) is OBDI

Did you check the fuses?

I am putting my 1995 GT motor back together. Wouldn't you know, I can't find the cam dowel pin. It is using the stock cam. I have tried all the auto parts stores around here: AutoZone, O'Reily's, NAPA, and the small ones. No one has it. I have searched online and the treads here and can't find...

In a pinch you can spray some type of cleaner (MAF or Carb) around the intake, and it if there is a leak, it should change the idle some.