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I just took my car (2000 GT) in for its spring maintenance before getting it on the road. One of the things getting done was the plugs, and I had a set of NGK Iridium IX, part number TR55ix, which according to their website is the right plug. According to other posts I found when searching...

Gotta agree with Tom... if it's purely better times in auto-x you're looking for, tires and brakes. Tires will save you money in the long run too. Get a set of Kuhmo V710's on some 03 Cobra rims and save your street tires! If you want better overall street/auto-x handling, as well as better...

I don't know why nobody has picked you up for not having SFCs yet. Here's what you do: Go to MM, get full length subs and the rear grip kit. Done. The feeling you're describing sounds like the lateral motion of the rear axle that has already been described here. If you're flopping your car...

Evolution motorsports also makes a watts link for out cars. Never heard much feedback on it though...

Maximum Motorsports has good kits with everything you'll need. Yes, you need CC plates as the facotry strut mounts won't support all of the weight on their own. If you're just doing the front, it shouldn't be too bad for cost if you'll already have the front end ripped apart for the k-member.

Those are '95 Cobra R's. He's looking for 2000's. I've never seen them either.

I really dig it but in the same situation I would have gone to an '01 Cobra front bumper at the same time. I'm just waiting to get 'tapped' like you did so that I have an excuse to get one! ...And maybe a V6 rear bumper and side exit exhaust ala 2000 Cobra R, not the Roush style rectangular kind.

The Funny looking red Ferrari is the Pininfarina (I have no idea how many 'n's there are really supposed to be there) P4/5. It's about a $4 million one-off they did from an Enzo. Same power but less weight and a lower c/d than the Enzo. Top speed is speculated to be over 225mph.

Isn't the Ford OEM 2003 Cobra wheel a 17x9 that weighs in at 21lbs? Some guys on Corner carvers spoke out against the Villians from MM. Apparantly, they aren't a very robust wheel. Many people have experienced the rims cracking.

I don't think those are downed cones, they look like leaners marking the turn next the the edge of the concrete there.

Exact same thing happened to me this spring with the T 45 in my 2000 GT. It was the syncro rings... and it was not a cheap fix. I decided that rather than pay over $1000 for parts and labour, I'd get a used transmission. Bad move. The transmission I got from a guy at SVT performance was equally...

FRPP Bullitt suspension package. I think in the catalogue it's called the Mustang handling kit. Drop is about an inch depending on your year and it includes spring, shocks/struts and sway bars. Its dirt cheap considering what it has in it.

The 944 was all about handling, not straight line speed. If it's stock, you'll likely be able to outrun it in a straight line. Don't make any bets against it at the track or an autocross though.

You guys are all talking about the catch phrase "Volumetric Efficiency". As displacement goes up, efficiency goes down. That 1.8L Honda Civic engine is only overcoming the rotating mass of 4 pistons, connecting rods etc. There are only 4 pistons creating friction with the cylinder walls etc etc...

The Ford Spec DOT 3 I used has a higher bioling point than any DOT 4 I saw. I got it at Canadian Tire so you probably won't find the same brand but it had the boiling point right on the bottle, I'll see if I can find it and tell you what it is.

Long Tubes should have a mid pipe designed specifically for them. Try to find one of those. Hooker super-comps are a good bet. You won't have to remove the header to change the clutch and they're good for 20-30hp. You pay for the quality though.

I thought the Ford batteries were wider than a normal battery? Shouldn't the optima be too small for the bracket? Summit Racing has a fairly cheap battery relocation kit. Get that and put your optima in the trunk.

Gears are a good idea, but there's a good chance your car may be down for two days if the shop is busy and they don't start it early enough in the day. What are you after? If you're into anything other than straightline driving, MM full length subs are a must have, and are way under your budget...

I've stored mine for a 6 month deployment and came back and it ran fine. Top up your tank though. The worst thing is having a partially full tank because the empty part will be subject to condensation, then you get water in your fuel and that leads to trouble.

I don't know what kind of 'whine' you're referring to but I'd see a doctor instead.