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I recently installed a Explorer engine in my 89 LX.. I freshened it up with new rings, bearings, etc.. The longblock is stock with GT40 irons with 1.7 rockers, stock H.O. cam, Cobra intake, 65mm T/B, 70 mm MAF off of a 95 5.0, FMS shortys, off-road h-pipe and a 190 fuel pump with 19#...

There is no distributor in an explorer 5.0 engine, And the engine utilizes a roller cam just like the normal H.O. ...

The way I converted mine was I used the shaft out of the factory 5.0 t/b, aligned the butterfly to the holes on the shaft with 2 picks and marked where the shaft needed to be opened up on both sides... I used a die grinder to rough out the shaft and the switched to a hand file for finishing...

Some RTV's will eat through rubber gaskets, and that looks like what happened... Rubber oil pan gaskets need to be installed dry, anyways....

I did pull up on the pedal, and it did no good... Now if I have someone hold up on the pedal while I push in on the fork a little bit it works for a few pushes of the pedal and then it goes back the way it was....

There is no adjustment at the fork...

I installed a new clutch today and now it wont disengage fully... The old clutch would disengage but would grab a little bit (1/2 inch)off the floor... The car (89 LX) still has the stock cable and quadrant... Could it be that my cable is stretched??? I also need some info on a good...

Nevermind, I figured it out...

How does the throwout bearing mount onto the fork??? Does it go between the fork and the spring tabs or does it slide over the spring tabs???

I have an '89 shortblock and I am trying to remove the oil filter stud out of the block... It has no hex on it so the question is, can it be removed or is it in there for all time??? If it can be removed what is the best way to do so?? Thanks in advance...

When I pulled my 89 motor apart about a month ago I found 6 pistons in which the oil control rings were frozen in the ring grooves... This was just due to carbon build up... i work for a Chevrolet dealer and we see this a lot on Gen3 V-8's...

I'm almost positive you have to remove the trans to access it..

Up... :shrug:

C'mon peeps, share some wisdom... :)

There is a tool called a "noid" light that when plugged into any one of the injector connectors, should flash as you crank the vehicle, also check for power at the injector conectors with a test light w/ the clip on the ground side of the battery... A good guess would be ignition module, as...

I picked up a 96 explorer 5.0 engine up recently... It has 59k miles on it and is in good shape... I know I have to change water pump, brackets, Etc... I will be switching out the cam, rockers and pushrods, and I have some parts laying around so tell me what you think.. I have a b303 cam, a...

Ok, another question... Will aftermarket cylinder heads support the factory rocker arm/pushrods, or will I need to go to a different system...

Say I was to go with a mild set of heads, would I not need to upgrade my fuel delivery (i.e. Injectors) as well as corresponding parts whatever they may be.. :shrug: Also, would there be any benefit form switching out the shorty headers to long tubes...

I have the engine apart and it looks like the bottom end won't need much at all, I tore the heads down and checked the valves, seats and guides and it has a couple of loose guides explaining the oil consumption problem I was having... The problem I have is that I don't want to spend a ton of...

I have a 1989 LX 5.0 5spd Mustang, with a little over 125k miles and in need of some work... I bought it cheap a while back from a friend of mine and used it as a daily driver for a couple years... My friend had installed a B303 cam, Cobra intake w/ stock t-body and MAF, shorty headers, 3.73...