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Basically all the harnesses, especially in my engine bay, are horible. The sheaths are falling apart and there are splices/electrical tape everywhere and I'm simply tired of looking at it. Are there kits for this? (I thought I saw one for 84+ from painless at the Hot August Nights car show, but...

I need to find out the obd code for a 2000 chevy venture. The code is 1218 Also, does anyone have a website that will tell what codes are? So I don't have to ask again in the future. Thanks

I'm looking at replacing the 7.5" rear on my car and at summit there are three similar kits, although I have no idea what the difference is other then gear ratio and the 28 or 31 spline, can someone educate me on this? the kits are: summit P/N: FMS-M-4006-B373 FMS-M-4006-C373...

I installed my long tubes, then had the exhaust shop put in my x-pipe. I have dumps so I have any experience with the cat back. As far as the cross memeber is concerned, I pulled one out of an 87 and then had the shop bend the cross member so it would fit properly.

leave the guy alone, a moderator will see it and move it. it's the moderator's job to take care of this.

Any one else have any idea? If it's just the $300 then i'm going to get the 347.

I'm trying to decide what to go with (shortblocks): CHP 347 street fighter GTCHP 347 street fighter GT CHP 331 street fighter I'm planning on AFR 185's, and i really can't tell what the difference is between the shortblocks; As well as why the 347 is so much cheaper. personally i like...

Any input would be helpful, even if its saying that this is a good or bad combo that i'm working for.

I’m saving up for a new engine, mine has over 200,000 miles on it and it has extremely bad oil leaks and just doesn’t run like it used to. I’ve been thinking about this for a while and now I would like your input on stuff I need to think about, if parts will work together. What I want out of...

i bump mine up to 15-40 during the summer, but i also have some leaks that cause smoke, so it helps with that

exactly, you should also have a switch under your steering wheel that says amp pull.

t5 is 105 lbs dry, I'm pretty sure

2. don't use the gaskets that come with BBK, get some fel-pros or metal gaskets 3. my '83 wasn't too bad if you have trouble put a pipe on the end of the socket wrench to make the handle longer

50resto.com is a good place... now onto the original question. there are about 10 screws, that are kind of a pain to get to, they are right next to the windshield. i know for sure there are two in each of the heat vents, and one or two more next to the door jamb, another hard one to get to...

where do you want power? is it going to be daily driven, street/strip, or mostly strip? if daily driven you'll probally want the weiland, power from idle to 6600. it might not be as much top end as the victor or RPM but their power bands are from 2200 (i think) to 7000 RPM. do some research on...

also, if you have crappy u-joints, that could cause vibration problems. as long as your tranny shifts correctly and such the whine shouldn't affect drivability, although i would check the fluid levels.

was the transmissionmout the same for the early and late 83' GT's because they switched from the 4 speed to the T-5? Thanks

i wish i could, but the problem is that i don't have the tools or place to do it... thats the reason i took it to a shop to begin with

Thats what i'm thinking, i just want to verify, can anyone else verify that's what i'm thinking

careful with the coat hanger... i pulled my molding off (that was a long time ago... don't give me crap)