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What is peel away??

OUCH!!! cough*law suit*cough clean mustang btw

No it was loose in there and I just pulled it out like that. The broken pump sounds about right, cant pull it till tomorra but does any one here know a place to get a dry sump kit/ parts for a cleveland??

Shouldnt it still fire even if the shaft is broken?? even just a kerdumpdunk

Lesson learned: DONT BUY A MILODON OIL PUMP DRIVESHAFT! http://forums.stangnet.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=36359&stc=1

I went to check that.. its ok so i had a hell of a time geitn the oil pump drive shaft engaged so i pulled that out.... twisted the top hex and snaped off the bottom in the oil pump. and to boot its a hardned hipo aftermarket beefy one. SO i dont know if the dist being loose saved my engine by...

oops wrong thread, but similar...

I have a 351 cleveland and last night I was tuning my timing and took it out for a spin to see how it was running. Being an idiot i forgot to tighten the distributer hold down nut.... So I got on it a bit then it sounded like a couple fire crackers went off then the engine cut out. Figured its...

I heard some thing on a previous thread about a turbo'd I6 that kicked some arse. Forgot who it was though.

Hey thinkin of selling my 289 from my stang when i swap my 351 in. So how much do you guys think is a fair price for it? It is: PAW short block, World heads, Isky cam 480 lift, Edilbrock alum intake, Edilbrock 650 4bbl, Roller rockers, Some where around 30,000 miles on it I had it...

Dont be scared by the $4500 ( and still about $2000 more to go), this is no basic rebuild by any means. I went to the best machine shop in town and prety much did everything to this engine. So it will be a good 400 hp very streetable engine. I think balencing for me was 160, rod resizeing and...

LOL should have looked at you link first, its a cleveland so scratch the short block. My cleveland had only 7thou of taper after 100,000 miles on it and almost didnt need a rebuild. Tha kit looks good, but you have to factor in head work too. Ive put about $4500 into my cleveland so far and not...

Machining depends on mileage, how hard you are on it, and matienece. IF it does need machine work you might be better off buying a short block. There are tons of companys selling them, among the best (not cheapest) are Coast High Performance and DSS racing. You could allso order one from ford.

I ended up throwing down $1500 to have my cleveland heads rebuilt to make good power, and that was with out porting b/c they didnt need it. So what you might spend to get stock heads to the performance level of after market, you just might want to go aftermarket. not as hard core as alum heads...

The 302/351c head engine is called the "clevor", ive heard of it being done but maybe not worth it for the price. The 351w heads would be pointless bc they dont flow for ***** compaired to the stock cleveland heads, and the 4v cleveland heads or the australian heads will get you more compression...

Exactly, get painted and then do any "modifying" they need with a hammer or so on, then coat. My friend had to modify for a power steering after he got his coated and ruined the $200 coat job.

Ohhh shortys...... Probly the biggest problem ive had with my 289 was the shortys. The gasket connecting them to the pipes blew out around 10 times, lost a few bolts every time. Paied $250+ to have the pipes tucked up to a better angle so they wouldnt do that, but it still did. They just now...

I dont get it wont it be like mocking up a wheel with a flat?? how does it support the weight of the vehicle?

I know ARP and im pretty shure its the same for all studs, is to install them into the hole HAND TIGHT and then put the carb or what ever on and torque the nuts on. Usually with ARP lube if they are infact ARP.

With a hex nut that is giving me trouble i usually notch the end of it fairly deep with a carbon cut-off disc so i can fit a good sized flat head screw driver on it. Then you have plenty of area for the bolt to grip, you might want to try this and use one of those hex flat head screw drivers...