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I used the 3M spray can stuff and it gives it a nice textured black look and would recommend it. It looks great and should keep it in good shape, remember even galvanized can rust!

Make it easy on yourself, Go with the nut :nice:

Depends on alot of variables especially colors, if you want a poor man's way for black, get any good primer and I am partial to Krylon. Then use the Krylon Semi Flat black #1613. Some people may think this is questionable, but if you want a black that matches the factory black this is tough to beat.

Not sure about tyhe voltmeter but if you want the Amp meter to work the large Lugged wire on the starter solenoid has to be still hooked up. That is the way it is on 69 but maybe not on yours.

I have the exact same setup as Dennis, I love the dynomax's and everyone says with the H-pipe I have that classic deep sound. When I went to a dyno pull last year, quite a few people came around the corner to see what was making that great sound and enjoy still listening to the radio or talking...

Another thing to try and I cannot take credit for the idea is install the headers with just the collectors and jack up the front of the car. Start the engine and get it Hot than use a piece of wood or a baseball bat and bend the headers to get clearance. :nice:

Chepsk8 is correct that the 70's are better, they use a larger spindle diameter and associated bearing. But this is where you have to make a decision. From your description on how you are going to drive your car, I would say that the 69's are alright. I have 69 spindles and bearings and have...

2 1/2 with Mandrel bent flowmaster pipes and an H pipe if you want a classic deep sound. If not go with an X but you need to hear the difference, it is defintely different.

Fortunately, when I rebuilt my A/C inside unit mine were still OK. I am always interested in people reproducing parts that are not available. I feel that a good substitute would sell as long as you keep the cost down. The type of material should be considered from a cost standpoint because not...

I know there is some debate here and I know I will be disputed but I had to weigh in as well. I don't have any technical backup, but do have some real life experience with the hardness issue. I agree that the thickness is a factor but when I had my 69 351W block bored out it was not the...

I switched this weekend over to the Powermaster 1 wire 130 AMP and man did this make a difference over the stock 35. At idle now I am making 14 volts and for needing to go over 1000 Rpm to get it to start working my choke does that. Unlike others I just unplugged and taped up the connectors and...

Not sure how much different your setup is but on my 69 with the FMX I just rotated the arm up and then removed the shifter linkage reversed it 180. The floor shifter works almost perfect in line with the shift indicator. I also used the same crossmember by notching it to clear the pan. As for...

I have the 4 1/2 and like the ride but the shocks will be a player as well. Before I changed leafs I had the familar sag look with KYB's but it was a good ride. I changed to the 4 1/2 and went with the KYB GR2 and that worked well together as well good ride and no wheel hop. I will say that...

Hello Garret, In theory it would work but not sure how long they would last, the v-belts are not designed to wear on the back and front side. The other problem is the flexibility because when serpentine belts drive on the back side they usually wrap around a pulley, where a v-belt might be a...

I feel that you can make that kind of gain on a stock set of heads but not a set like yours because they are already pretty good from the box. Maybe more like 10 to 20.

I will try and help even though I am from Dallas:D The parking cable should be above the exhaust and almost rubbing on the bottom of the floor boards. As for where the adjuster is I do not have the stock exhaust but it is above the exhaust there as well.

Thanks for the input, Nitrous or anyone else, how does that air/fuel mixture look? The reason I ask is when I pull the plugs they look like new really burning clean. I am wondering if I need to move up the primaries some to get that a little richer at the lower RPM's:shrug:

Sorry that I have not responded back any sooner, but have been out of town. Finally got the dyno run sheet and this shows the problem that happened at 4300 RPM when the trans. had the issue. Maybe this will mean something to you guys familiar with the dynojet program.

Huey your killing me:lol:

Sorry for the confusion 180, I will help clarify from what I have gatheredfrom the run and the responses. First, as I stated earlier the guy operating the dyno ran it with the trans in the overdrive position. From what I have been told that this is not correct because the AOD in 4th is less...