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Starters pull a LOT of amperage. Without a load (like a 5.0 engine attached), a starter that free spins fine is not necessarily "good". Nor does it mean that the battery that supplies it is good. With no load, it will likely work with half the required cranking amps. You have to determine if...

And the lord said, "Let there be wheels..."

Today I got the new shocks installed, the caliper mounts removed, painted, and reinstalled, and the rear-end set ready for reinstall. Pics tomorrow. Plan for tomorrow: INSTALL THE REAR-END... get some tires on her, and pressure-wash/blow all the dust off.... pictures to come...

I am in California. I have a professional products typhoon.... this is b.s. how can they makes something illegal after the fact? CA sucks...

This Rustang project will actually be a good car. It's been in a covered parking area for 10 years, it has 80k original miles on the vehicle. I bought it right out of high school... my mom borrowed the car, went around a corner too fast, and hit the rear tire on a curb, breaking the axle. I...

That's 10 years of dust... :-) I thought of doing a 5 lug, but I already had the 4 lug stuff....and I've never had an issue of not enough lugs.... :-)

So far: I got the following installed: 1 Strut, 1 Spindle, 1 caliper, 1 Rotor 1 Caster/Camber plate In addition... I've got a TurboCoupe rear end to go on her... 3.73 gears, with Disc brakes...

So... my mom calls me and says "I'm tired of looking at this old car in my barn; get rid of it, or I will." It's not worth restoring... it's got no wheels.. (Spindles gone.. rear end gone).. the motor is apart... hasn't been driven in 10 years... But.... I'm gonna restore it.... :)

"A fool and his money are soon parted." It sounds like you've got more money than sense. $12k for 250 RWHP in a 94 Mustang? If I had no vehicle, I could buy a 94 Mustang for $4000, spend $3000 on a supercharger, spend another $4000 on heads, intake, TB, headers, and exhaust, and for $11k, make...

I'm debating on whether or not to purchase a 1994-1995 Mustang GT vert. I'm a fox body guy, and I am wondering how many engine parts will fit from my 86 and 87 mustang: I have: ASP Underdrive pullies. BBK Shorty Headers Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back system. Off road H-pipe Edelbrock...

Ok, now that I have seen the core support picture you posted, it is different than what I was referring to. I'm talking about the metal on top of the radiator... it goes around the front of the vehicle, and is what the hood prop attaches to.

I am parting out an 87 Hatchback and I have a wrecked 98 V6 stang and my body shop is having a hard time finding a front end to replace the front core support with. Will the core support from an 87 fit a 98? Thanks in advance.

No disrespect intended but it sounds like you want someone else to do your google searching for you. "I need to get all the specs below of a stock 302 motor...." That is like asking... "I need the dimensions of a Nike Shoe...." The size of a Nike shoe depends on the shoe size, and...

Thank you for your input. I did some research, and I guess the later model 302's do have a water jacket. The older 289, and the chevy 350's I rebuilt don't have this. It looks like the bulk of the replacement timing chain covers are made of aluminum. Is the stock cover made of aluminum?

The timing chain cover has a water jacket in it? Do you know what kind of metal its made of? I am thinking maybe I can drill it, tap it, and screw it just to patch it for now. Maybe a self-tapping screw and some epoxy. I just need to patch it for about a year.

I had water squirting out the BACK of the water pump. It was a steady stream of water that was shooting out of the back area of the water pump and hitting the driver's side head. I spent 3 hours and $100 replacing the water pump, I fire it back up and the same darned leak is there. Come to...

Ok, I played around with the old parts and some things did not make sense. When I placed the "dust cover" from the old shock onto the new one, there was nothing on the new shock to hold the dust cover against the strut tower so it slid down around the shock and left the top portion of...

New Struts/Caster Camber Plates Install Ok... I got the driver's side on. I could not get the factory strut bolt off of the stock plate so I took the whole plate out together. As a result, I was unable to get the stock "boot" that goes around the top of the strut. Is this important...

Maybe not... but the heads will look stock. If I can represent a stock long block with a heavier car (convertible) some of the locals with simple bolt-ons (like an edlebrock intake) might consider themselves equal. :) I spent around $900 having the work done. It is still cheaper than new...

That requires a machine shop or some other technical knowlege. I am good at building up long blocks but as far as the short block is concerned, I don't like dealing with internals that require balancing and everything else. If I notched the pistons, would I need to remove them?