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its been awhile since I've been on here. Anyway my hydraulic clutch keeps going out. I'll bleed and adjust and it will work for a bit then goes back to were I can't shift again. I know I can replace it with the cnc parts but was wondering about rebuilding it. The original JMC instructions said...

Anybody got one just so I make sure I don't fry the new starter I have coming?

Ok I can't figure this thing out and its not like there are a lot of wires to work with. The picture above is what I was sold and all I can find but not what I took out of my 65. What I took out of my 65 only had the 3 pin not the extra one on the outside of where the boot goes like this one...

I just fried mine tonight it looks like, I'll have it tested tomorrow though to make sure. Anyway, I have a t-5 and hooker comp headers in a 65. Any suggestions?

Been a looooong time away but now I have it back going and have some cooling issues. Issues are at park the temp just keeps going up and up. Slowly but it won't come down or stay in one spot. While driving it goes up to about 190 and hovers between there and 210. Here is my setup: 302...

Funds are tight right now and the heads I have are garbage in my opinion. My compression with them is around 11.5-1 and it just isn't working. I would love to get some AFRs but just can't afford that right now and might be able to swing the Jegs 170 heads. They are around 800$ cheaper or so...

Since my 1st gear in my T-5 is 2.93 with my 4.11s I'm running through 1st pretty quick. I was thinking something like 3.70s. A friend of mine said I should go with 3.50s but I think thats to high. I don't want to hurt performance at the track either though. What do you guys think.

Can I switch the base plate on my 670 street avenger with my 650 DP to bascially make my 670 a DP instead of a vacum secondary? The only reason I ask this is because the 670 is new and I bought it and has, well....bling and the 650 is used off ebay. I've opened up the 650 and everything looks...

I haven't decided to go there yet but if I do where can I find a 157 tooth 28oz lite weight flywheel? Never mind found one

I'm pretty dissappointed right now. I got caltracs and subframes and even fixed my compression leak and figured I was a 12 second car for sure. Didn't turn out that way though. I know my car has more power now and we where working mainly with the carb and tire pressure and timing to bring it...

I haven't noticed a much harsher ride but I did notice one thing. My tires used to rub on the fender lip going over bridge divides. Now it doesn't unless I smack a bump real good or get off angle! I haven't tried a nice smokey launch yet :D

Do you guys use the upper or lower hole?

Which subframe connectors from ce should I get? I'll probably weld them in either way but was wondering if the bolt ins would do their job until I got around to doing it, like this winter?

What did you think? I'm thinking most of the cars there were not really streetable. I personally would have rather seen the 3 run rule, not allowed to open the hood after inspection, and a 15 minute break between rounds.

I have had one sitting in the garage for about 2 years now and haven't gotten around to installing it. I doubt I'll ever do a road coarse in this car only drag racing. I've heard that they will help keep the rear centered. Will it benifit me any at the track?

I saw a crotch rocket the other day with red paint with metalic flakes that looked pretty good then it had thin flames with the same flake but the color was a couple of shades off so you could see it easier. Would this be ghost flames? I assumed that ghost was flames with more flake so that...

Well I was at car quest talking to some car buddies of mine, all have chebys. I asked one of the guys how is 66 nova was comeing a long and he said good and that it was definatly faster than that ford of mine. I said really? Didn't you only manage a 12.8 with a blower and 50 more cubes than...

I was wondering if its possible to have an overflow hose to big? I think mine is 3/8 and was wondering if 5/16 would be better? Also I have it setup to recirculate, hose goes to bottom with cork vent on top.

I'm haveing trouble with mine. It will stick just enough to idle a few hundred rpms higher than it should. Pop, the hood, hit the cam and its gone until I start it again. These are the reasons why I'm thinking about ditching it!

Is there any differance? I was going to order comps bolt on subframes from summit and figured I would save some on shipping. If there is really a differance and cal tracs are better I'll get those. Side note, does the comp subframes loose ground clearance...or anymore than any of the others?