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I've got a set of FR500C coilovers with 450 lb-in front springs, and 300 lb-in rear springs (springs are all eibach). They are takeoffs and used for about a year. I'm looking to get around 3k for them, make me an offer if you are interested. This includes the front struts (2) and rear shocks...

Updates I finally got the FR500C coilovers installed. I ended up going with a big bar soft spring (BBSS) setup 450lb/in front springs 350lb/in rear with the stiffest steeda anti-swaybars, later these will be upgraded to adjustable swaybars. FR500C brembo calipers mounted on cobra slotted rotors

So, over the past year I've been gathering FR500C parts to install into my Fox as a track day toy. I've put The FR500 calipers (Front) on already with some adaptor brackets on SN95 spindles and Cobra 13" rotors. I'm waiting on getting rotor hats for a decent price to update to the 14"...

I finally got out to take a look at it and do a little diagnostic work on it, and judging by the bubbles in the radiator and the amount of water thats missing I think it's got a blown head gasket. I'll be pulling the head this weekend.

I'd just run the intake to head gaskets for a ford explorer unless you've port matched the intake and heads to a 1250. look on summit here are a few of the gaskets: Felpro QMS95952 - 28.95 Q17360 - $29.95 QMS94951 - 17.25 Ford Racing M-9439-G50 - 16.99 upper to lower gasket...

open the radiator cap, run the car up to opperating temp (not driving just let it run) when it's up around 180 ish let it set there for about 5 minutes and rev the motor to around 3-4k, and have someone watch in the radiator. If you see bubbles or major changes in fluid level it points toward a...

Injectors Is there any way to check injectors if they are going bad? I would think if they are going bad then this wouldn't be such a repeatable problem. The fact that I can go out at any part of the day and drive the car HARD or like an old lady and 10 minutes in I loose power and it feels...

MAF The Maf is a C&L and I've got the tube their site says, and the car was driving fine for a year with these injectors and MAF. Though I am close to getting another maf just to try it out.

Fuel pump Sorry probably should have listed that too, I've got a fuel pressure gauge too and it stays right at about 36 psi the entire time, no drops.

leakdown test I did a quick leakdown test on the 5-8 cyl. bank and they all held pressure. I forgot to take the radiator cap off to check for a blown gasket though so I may have to repeat this tonight.

302, GT40P heads, Edelbrock intake, 24lb injectors. MAF conversion New TFI module, new coil, Tried with and without MSD box. with and without kenny bell BAP, AEM wide band. No smog system. I pulled the codes and the only codes are related to the Smog stuff and tad/tab, and I get the VVS...

Does anyone have access to 94-95 (really 94-97) ABS wiring diagrams? Or have the ability to do a pin out test from the ABS pump to the sensors themselves? I'm trying to figure out what pins on the 16 pin connector (gray one) go to each ABS sensor. I have looked at a bunch of wiring...

the way I diagnosed this was after the fuse blew I disconnected the BTM box and just ran the stock ignition. then hooked up the BTM and ran it until the fuse blew, then swapped in a higher amperage fuse to see if it would keep blowing. I started with 15A and went all the way to 30A and it blew...

Well I finally tracked down what I believe to be the problem. I have a Vortech BTM ignition box installed in the car and I think it draws too much current from the key on wire. so I think it blew the fuseable link under the dash. So when I replaced that wire with a new wire and a fuse that I...

It's BACK! well the day before I went road racing my problem returned. I haven't had time to go through and see what is wrong yet but my pump isn't priming and I tried jumping the fuel pump test port to ground and it didn't run.

My wife finally let me back out into the garage on sunday to work on the car and here is what I found out. The signal wire from the ignition was not 12v at the EEC relay, coil or distributor. I was getting 12 V at the harness on the column and at Fuse 1 on the fuse box, but not on the engine...

awesome, I'll concentrate my efforts on looking at that stuff tonight.

Last night I after I replaced the EEC relay and harness I measured the voltages everywhere again: here are the voltage measurements after replacing the EEC relay harness and relay, and the fuel pump relay: EEC Relay: all referenced to chassis ground no key / key on Red/Lt Green - 0 V / -.01...

can anyone tell me what each wire on the EEC relay and the fuel pump relay is supposed to read in the key off (ie not in the ignition at all) and Key on positions? I've done everything I know to do from all the instructions and checking voltages, and to me it looks like the tan/green wire on...

parts were from NAPA Relay connector - ECH EC121 - 12.29 Relay - ECH AR242 - 16.99 I just swapped them out and it didn't change anything. Now I know the connections and the EEC relay are good though. I'm lost as to what it can be. I disconnected my electric fan, and I'm going...