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All solved!! The plugs had some water and oil and after blowing the water and oil out and the car ran MUCH better. :doh: That was it now the car runs fine. I'm surprised how much decent torque the NPI has at low rpm's. Still a slug tho! Thanks guys it shows how important it is to keep those...

Hey guys, Been out for a while. Need your expertise. I returned My 96 GT to stock (NPI cams, NPI intake, stock tune) since I am selling it to a friend and that is how he wanted it. Now it runs awful, it will idle fine but at 2800+ rpm's it really struggles to get moving but there are no DTC's...

Sweet stang! It looks almost like mine. It will make a nice "sleeper". I am originally from Northern Cal. Where in Northern Cal do you live? :nice:

Do you still have the Cobra? I may be interested do you have pics?

If you can score a nice Cobra go for it! Modding a mustang is not cost-effective if you have to pay someone to do it, especially "unconventional mods" like PI head swaps since most mechanics don't even know it can be done, trust me. It sounds to me you don't work on your car so keeping a Cobra...

I like KYB's. They are affordable, work much better than stock and very durable. That is what I have in my 96 GT. I wouldn't bother with the Energy Suspension bushings, especially if they are polyurethane, since urethane bushings will squeek and make your car sound "ghetto" over time.

Talk to Clutch Connection in Fairfield, CA. The owner (Rob) specializes in performance rebuilds IF THERE ARE PERFORMANCE PARTS. He is very resonable and he is building my T-45 right now. Tell him Mel sent you.

Battery Terminals Chances are just your terminals are corroded and not your whole cable. I had a badly corroded positive terminal so this is what I did: I cut the terminal off at the cable and attached a brass terminal from an auto parts store. I have had no problems for over 5 years now...

I have Mach 1 springs (same thing as Bullit but 1/2" drop). My experience is if you want a great handling car keep the original sway bars (30 mm F and 23 mm R) but the ride will be rough. Since you have a lot of potholes and if you want a nice ride install the Bullit sway bars (28 mm and 21...

I have a similar problem, 2-3 gear shift grind when shifting fast. Also 4th isn't doing much better. Mine is at a friends tranny shop but it appears the synchro's are giving out. The TOB also squeaks and that is very typical. I'm prolly changing that out too. These T-45's are hit or miss...

I work for the state highway department in San Diego and we concluded that he hit the end section of a metal beam guard rail sideways. Apparently he lost control since there are skid marks all over. The metal beam gaurd rail cut the car in half. Very ugly. I see stuff like this all the time...

Popping.... I had the same problem a while ago. It is probably your upper control arms. The rubber bushings are shot. Replace them with new FRPP ones for best results.

I had an upholstery shop re-dye my tan leather seats to cover all the hairline cracks then they sprayed a clear preservative over them. They came out looking like new! Also, when you store a car with leather seats, you should roll up all the windows to keep the leather from drying out.

Easy fix..... I too have a 96 GT that had the same problem. If you have both switches you can dissassemble both of them by pushing apart the plastic tabs and rebuild one with the good parts. The switches have these tiny metal clips inside that often wear out. Re-lube them with silicone...

I have MACH 1 springs and they seem to work very well and give a decent ride. They changed the handling from oversteer to nuetral and the ride is firm but not annoying. I don't see how slamming a car will give you better handling without massively re-engineering the suspension which is a lot of...

Did you pull the 30 amp fuze for the power seat? BTW, does your power seat still work?

You stiffened the wrong end of the car! The Mustang will understeer from the factory, therefore it can benefit from a stiffer REAR sway bar! I've heard the adjustable sway bars work if adjusted correctly.

You will need a small 3/8"? tubing bender to bend the AC tube without rupturing it.

Your front sway bar is 30 mm. It is thicker than the 28 mm hardtops. As for the sway bar bushings I went back to original rubber ones since the aftermarket poly bushings became quite noisy after a while and I got sick of lubing them. I didn't notice a difference in performance either way...

What are you trying to accomplish? I am assuming you are trying to remedy the understeer issue. I too have a GT ragtop and I noticed it had understeer issues with the stock suspension. Since you are on a tight budget another option would be to get an adjustable sway bar for the rear. I know...