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Please send me a link to a set of instructions telling you to put the nozzle BEFORE the mas. I've never heard of this.

This is how every dry kit I've ever seen/heard of works. Here's a blurb from Holley's (NOS) site.. Types of NOS Systems An Overview Of Wet, Dry And Direct Port Systems These are three basic types of nitrous systems: dry, wet, and direct port. The most misunderstood is the "dry" type of...

Doesn't get much simpler than a dry setup. The fuel pressure is boosted via the fpr vacuum line when you spray. The computer does the rest, adjusting the injector pulse width to get the desired a/f mix. You don't have to do anything but match the proper sized jets.

The nozzle should go after the MAF, 4-12" before the throttle body. If you spray nitrous on the MAF wires, you'll freeze them up and possibly ruin them.

There's a solenoid that controls the boost to the regulator. The jet goes inside the hose fitting on the output of the solenoid.

There's a vacuum line that goes to your fpr.. you put the correct jet in it for whatever size shot you're running, and it will boost your fuel pressure when the relay is activated. The manufacturer of your nitrous system will tell you what size jets to use. I won't say dry is better, but for...

First check your physical grounds. It sounds like you may have fried the signal return on pin #46 (it's a circuit ground, common to all the sensors you're getting codes for).. I went through the same thing. Check the resistance between the highlighted self-test port and battery negative, it...

MSD 6al Anderson n/a powerpipe and Pro M 80mm shorty meter (made same power with mac cai and 75mm bullet) Buying 2 sets of wheels and tires, only to go back to my 10 holes. ..that's about it, so far.

I needed a heat gun and a couple hours to get mine out from the entire car, trunk to firewall. 3 full garbage bags, totalling 50something pounds (bathroom scale). And, as other folks have asked, why would you want to? :rolleyes:

I have all my a/c parts still if you need anything specific.. most of the hvac system went straight in the dumpster, but I hung on to all the underhood stuff. Good luck.

(old) pictures in sig.. Setup A . Pro M 75mm bullet . Mac fenderwell cold air kit . 278hp/307tq Setup B . Pro M 80mm shorty . Anderson 3.5" n/a powerpipe . 282hp/309tq Never noticed a difference, SOTP, between the two setups. The powerpipe setup makes 4hp/2tq more peak power...

I went for aluminum instead of steel.. less rotational mass and all that. I have asp's, fit/look/work great!

No smog, no dummy pulley. Does anyone have a belt routing diagram or picture to show exactly how/where the kb pulley is mounted? What kind of "bracketry" does it use that my p/s pump would be in the way? Thanks! :nice:

I have mac longtubes into a prochamber and 2 chamber flowmasters, same setup. My car is MUCH quieter than it was with my equal length shorties, offroad h, and same mufflers. At first I hated it, but it's been growing on me. Definately more tame at idle, but sounds great when you start pushing...

:shrug:

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Possible? I'm thinking about picking up a Blozilla soon, but apparently you need an a/c compressor in the stock location? Right now I have the fms delete kit that moves the p/s pump up.. is there a way to run this setup? Also, for anyone who has a KB, how do you like it? What size...

An upper intake manifold gasket? Just unbolt the 6 bolts holding it to the lower, and loosen the hose clamp that holds the air inlet tube to the mass air meter. Then you can just lift the upper intake up and swap the gaskets. It'll take you 10 minutes if you've never done it before.. EDIT...

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I run stock 89 valve covers, fms 1.72 rockers, and stock cam with no clearance issues. I did NOT remove or modify the oil baffle but I doubled up on the valve cover gaskets.