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modify the hell out of it. i hate seeing stock weenie cars, they can be so boring. i could care less if a car is rare. you see one concourse car, you seen them all. i would rather see a butchered riced out mustang than a stock one, atleast theyre trying to show some creativity. if i saw two...

what size tire are you planning on running? how high is the motor gonna be taching up to (shiftpoints)? what power level? what trap speeds are we looking at? those questions are important in helping pick a proper gear. that being said, i ran 3.73's in my 93 and on street tires first and...

like mentioned above, stock shortblock will not get you to 450hp na. and i doubt your making 350 hp with that setup.

Exactly what 5-0 said. may not help much at the track at all with street tires, but in daily driving it definately helps.

good choice. thats what im gonna be doing in my 68, switching from a stick to c4.

i ran gutted cats just fine, if the cats dont work (mine had pieces broken off, rattling in the cats) just gut them. I actually had cops look under my car to make sure i had cats a couple times ($1500 fine). the only con is the exhaust will be louder (if you count that as a con) and you wont be...

i didnt really get it, was that a bash?? i dont own that car anymore (sold it last month) and the computer i had with all my data and racing formulas and such crashed and everything was lost.

I gained like 2 hp going from equal length shorties to longtubes. i did gain 30 rwtq at the very low end, but basically from 4400rpm it was the same.

i know, and mine was more likely to chug alot more below 1700 rpm. off idle it would not have the same pull and was wanting to just die below 1250 rpm.

I lost all my dyno data, but basically the shorties made a tiny bit more low end <3400rpm AND top end >4800rpm while the equal lengths made a tiny bit more from 3400-4800 but on average from 3000-5400 they were the same. as for the longtubes, i made the same exact power with the equal lengths vs...

ttt

does a properly tuned high performance motor really make THAT much more power at or near idle than a stock car? from what i've seen, most high performing engines tend to be a little weaker right off idle.

thing is, I could see needing the stronger fan when your stopping all the time, but my car would stay cool no problems driving w/o stopping. Only when it would idle or be close to idleing would i need to turn on the fan. but once i got going again, the fan wouldnt be needed again. And that was...

wow that looks like a mess! well, to make it a 331 your gonna have to pull that motor out. then buy a kit. and finally hand it over to professional. if there is too much wear on the walls, it will need to be bored over .03-.04 unless its so worn it needs to go past that, then it would be...

i never EVER had problems after eliminating the coolant lines from the throttle body. The throttle body area did feel much cooler with them removed.

san jose, california

definately put in a fusable link vs. that fused line your running. I had the same EXACT problem, and i ran it EXACTLY as you did and kept blowing fuses. I took it to an electrical guy ($150/hr!!!) just to make sure and he said he looked everything over and everything checked out and soldered in...

if your ratio of coolant/water is off, its better to lean towards more water. before you start the car, open the radiator cap and have someone else start the car. if you see bubbles in the coolant, you probably have a blown head gasket. does the car pass smog as is right now? if it does, then...

I ran the coolant lines to throttle body disconnected with the egr still functioning for years no problems whatsoever.

actually, thinking about it, your flexplate is most likely on backwards. I had a 94 Impala Clone before and when I had a 383 LT1 put in, the starter would not engage most of the time. At first I told the guy who put the motor in that the flexplate is probably on backwards and he said it was...