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so i changed my oil 4 days ago. i went with castrol syntec vs. going with the usual synthetic blend. everything was just as smooth as usual, but now i threw two codes P0172 and P0175 (system is running rich on both banks). i don't get how this is possible. but 2 days ago i filled up with the...

which one do you peeps prefer....i'm on the hunt for a new sound. A BETTER SOUND, A LOUDER SOUND, but still cheap. that is why i'm just purchasing the mufflers and welding them into my current setup...o/r h, stock flow tubes and tail pipes. help me out people! -Gus

i want to hear some sound clips of a Mac Pro Dump setup....preferably with an O/R H but i'll take what i can get. thanks folks, Gus

so i got my double adj steeda uppers and weight jacker lowers in. i set the pinion angle to what might be -2* according to steeda's instructions on the length of the uppers, but i don't think that is precise at all. i've got the measuring tool to find the pinion angle through the crank, so that...

we are about to install the new k-member, a-arms (bushing end), and D&D coilovers with 175lb springs on my 97 VERT...any precautions we should take or any kind of problems we can avoid by buying certain tools ahead of time? any help would be great...just tired of running into problems that...

so i got the lowers in ....i have the double adjustable uppers with the new bushings to go into the differetial side. after spending 30 minutes to get the passenger side arm off and experiencing massive bind we moved on to the removal of the old rubber diff. bushings. these bastards are so hard...

i have now graduated the stangnet.com nitrous school and am now ready to get my stang on the bottle. i see that most go with the dry at first and end up converting to the wet setup. i would rather just go straight to whatever i'll be happy with the most. Either way i know i will be going...

OK...i really need some information here, i'm having a hard time with my wheel/tire combo (i'm tired of trial and error) so here goes..... IF you have a 96+ with ABS and are running any type of 15" wheel (i'm running a 15x10 weld prostar w/ 6.5bs) and are not having any type of ABS issues...

so i've got'em...love'em...but scared to drive with'em. I have the 15x8 5.5 bs with 255/60/15's, and 15x3.5 with 165/80/15's. ABS light is now coming on (from my understanding when this happens i'm without the ABS b/c the computer gets confused since my fronts are rotating slower than my rears...

after putting the 15x3.5's and 15x8's on the ABS light came on once i got on the highway...after turing the car off and back on it is off, but then once i reach a speed again it comes back on again...any suggestions?

i just got my weight jacker adjustable lower and double adjustable upper control arms with sperical rod ends installed and they sound HORRIBLE!!! they bind soooo bad...sounds like a hammer hitting the under part of the stang. anybody know what's up here?

called up monster motorsports out of florida about there heavy duty street/strip AODE (which is excellent!!!) when i was about to order it i wanted to upgrade the stall to 3200 and the dude was like WHOA!! he sent me to their tech department and the guy was like there is no way in hell you want...

just looking for ideas on my new suspension setup...want to get those 60's as low as possible! right now i have 2.01 every time...on street tires and eibach pro kit springs. getting the rearend beefed up to 31 spline and going with MT ET street radials. But still want to get the most out of this...

i just need some specific parts (i.e. shocks, springs, control arms, etc...) nothing toooo expensive as i have a tight budget, but a setup that will get my vert into a 1.7 60ft with zr street tires! any suggestions will help me out as i'm a noob with the drag launch suspension set up. teach me...

i was told that steeda's control arms are the only ones that won't damage the torque box due to their special bushings...looking at those and these i can't tell if there is a difference : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8020888346&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT...

i am having a hard time deciding on what DR's to get for my fr500 17x10.5's. i've only looked at the BFG's and the NITTO's. are these the best for the money or is there better. i've heard that the NITTO"S have a hard time getting hot at the track...??

i'm looking at lentech's street terminator manual valve body for my 97 daily driver (15miles aday). i just got off the phone with len at lentech and he said that i MAY have problems with the ecu if i install a manual valve body as i will not be able to attach the harness to the tranny after the...

so right now i have all of the following bolt-ons that are listed in my sig minus the accufab t.b. (hasn't gone through yet), but i was thinking about it and want to make sure i'm not going to big on the t.b. i plan to add some VT cams N/A grind, possibly some nice heads, and a PI intake. with...

i am looking for a cleaner that will take care of my black vinyl top...i have some wax spin off spots (from buffer) and some sap. any products that will be ok to use on the top that will take this stuff off fairly easy? soap and water doesn't work...I PROMISE! thanks, Gus

well as i am a college student and my funds are somewhat limited, i need to make up my mind as to what i'm going to do on my rebuild. i know i want stay N/A with the occasional spray at the TRACK (this is a daily driver). so here's what i'm thinking about: NICE PI p&p heads (livernoise, vt, or...