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Nice. I will take a look. Ty

Rest of the car looks good. Only 66k miles and lived in the south since 1989. im just worried about not being able to fix the upper well molding. Just need a second opinion on if its an easy fix.

I'm looking to buy this 89 convertible and there is some damage to the upper molding. I'm thinking this is an easy fix, and I would only need to purchase a new upper well molding. Any thoughts? Thanks. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-42318A/1987-93-Mustang-Rh-Convertible-Upper-Well-Molding

Thanks...

I just dont have knowledge or friends to do so. I was wondering if anyone know the going rate to pull and install a engine. Labor only....I plan to have the new engine sent to a auto shop. Thanks..

Thanks....I will try with the suggestions...I am using the plastic universals from Advance auto...Let u all know tomorrow....thanks

I am trying to do a HCI and I'm at a work stoppege with my fuel rails. I have tried the plastic disconnect tools and the metal type too with no luck. I have used wd40 to try to loosen the the dam thing with no luck. It seems the fuel rails have melded together. If someone lives close to Panama...

I am kinda in the same boat. I have a engine with 181K and to just get the short block bored out to a 306, it would cost me $500. That number does not include the cost for parts, labor and so on. I would go to ebay and do a search, I found a 306 or 308 short block with stock internals for around...

Thanks a million.....

thanks.... Help this noob out..will this work...1.6 ratio, 7/16" stud

help!!! want to order tonight on summit

What size rockers and what ratio would be good for stock heads that have new valve spings with a lift to .600. I was looking at the Harland sharp 1.6 with 3/8 stud...is this the right size?:shrug: Thanks

The plastic ones are what i have. There were other ones there, however, I didnt know the size to get..any suggestions..thanks..Bill302 your link doesnt work.....

I went to a local auto parts store and bought a universal fuel line disconect tool set. I tried it and it did not work. Anyone have suggestions for one that is made for a Ford... thanks

Normal driving, I see no smoke. However, when I lay into it I see white/greyish smoke. The engine has 182k, and I was going to upgrade the heads to AFR 165. Is this an indication for me to rebuild the shortblock or is it normal for high milage engine. :shrug:

I'm buying the trickflow H/C/I track kit next week. My engine has over 182k and I was wondering if I should get this engine rebuild kit too, from summit? Also, is there anything else you would recommend while I have my engine torn apart. (I will be having a mechanic rebuilding my engine). Thanks...

My car has over 181k miles and the distributor is still stock. Just thought It would be a good time to change out to a good one. Eventually, I will be building a new engine when my current one dies. I have around $400 in cash to spend and I was going to get new MSD distributor, MSD wires and MSD...

I'm looking at summit rightnow and I'm looking to upgrade my distributor. One MSD distributor is Electric($281) and the other is mechanical($260). Im thinking that electric is for standard 5.0 and mechanical is for carb. Thanks... My set-up....Stock 92 5.0, pullies, 3.73 gears, 65mm TB..

Upgraded to a 65mm TB and EGR. Started car and it gasp for air and creeps to a stall, but doesn't. I did unplugg the neg battery cable to reset the computer. Its 1030pm here and i didn't want to piss off the neighbors and lay into it to on the drive way to see if that would help for air. Help... :(

For example: If I was to by a Mass air system for 19lbs injectors and I upgrade to 24lbs injectors in the furture. Is there a way to re-calibrate to 24lbs or will I have to buy a new system? Thanks.... 92 GT....182,000 miles...pulleys...65mm TB...everything else is stock :(