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What would a bad/compressed lifter sound like? I figure the only thing that could make a noise if everything was bolted up and tight would be a lifter since oil circulation at start-up is minimal. I don't think its the belt because the noise was specifically from the back of the engine.

Speaking from experience?

I was putting back together my engine after replacing the water pump gasket and was trying to start it. The timing had been thrown off and I also was out of fuel. I filled up the tank and began to turn over the engine to get it to prime and while cranking it began to knock/rattle. It sounded...

That helps alot, would you be willing to tell cam specs?

Thats awesome. Pretty flat looking torque curve. :nice: You have just inspired me to go work on the mustang today.

:stupid: It looks good right now but with better stance it will be awesome. 17's look just about right on the 67+. You just can't beat the torq thrust.

:lol: Alright, thats it! I'm selling the coupe. :D

Have you gotten the chance to drive it? Whats your opinion on performance and drivability?

If your looking for carb tuning what about a set of secondary springs? Make sure to post up the results! I'm interested.

I had the exact same problem on my truck. I adjusted to rod between the mc and the pedal. Guess I had it too tight because the lights were always just barely on.

PM me if you have any! 3.25's - 3.73's. Thanks

They are'nt that big...:p I agree about the emblems it would make all that shiny polish and chrome look cheap. Otherwise I think the black and bright-metal will look good.

I fabbed up a T-5 crossmemeber an it worked well enough to hold it up :D but I have yet to road test. It's pretty easy fabrication, the measurements are the hard part. I also have a modified original crossmember I want to try.

Heres the plans for underrides (shelby traction bars). They bolt up to the leaf spring plate and weld/bolt??? foward to the frame. http://www.mustangsteve.com/underrides.html Mustang Steve :hail2:

I have a shop class too and I have been thinking about doing something for the Mustang. I have thought of; mcb, sub-frame connectors, an air box for use with a cowl/hood scoop, the underride bars, and an export brace. I think if you did a general chassis "kit" of your own it would be a good...

It seems most of it is replacing worn equipment with new high tech aftermarket pieces and judging it all by the reliable seat-o-the-pants-ometer:hail2: . Not to say I don't enjoy reading how inadequate my Mustang is.

When I pulled a 460 out of a F-250 the manual called to relieve the pressure from the fuel lines so I would say that it does hold pressure afterwards. Eventually it probably would bleed down.

180 Out is right about the variation, even if you kept the same car, switching through 5 or so suspensions would be a feat within itself. I do think that having an open competition would be interesting. Not to compare the companies but to show the difference between the said baseline cars and...

I'm pretty sure this was discussed before. I think that thats the "Procomp Electronics" HEI distributor. According to there website they have a 4340 Chromolly Steel Gear but they also say it is for use with cast and billet cams. Check it out. http://www.procompelectronics.com/Files/1.html

I have HEI, so far I haven't had any problems with it. It's nice not having to fool around with points. In my opinion it smoothed out the engine, and I was coming from Cranes XR-i pointless ignition. For that price I would say it is worth it. Just don't plan on running a 14" air cleaner.