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1995 Mustang GT, 66k miles , New Tires on cobra wheels, always garaged, near perfect condition 5sp. White w/ black interior. $5000 OBO -flowmasters -3.73 rear -K & N -Lowered 2" -3 core aluminum fluidyne -Mach 460 sound with Alpine/Ipod/USB/aux input. Broomfield Colorado

I will, and thanks for all your help. I think I'll wire in a toggle switch to control the high speed anyway.

The fan wouldn't turn on before at all, not at 210 degrees like it's supposed to. After I jumped #14 with 12 volts (Which made it turn on) it now works like it's supposed to. Now it turns on at 210 degrees , before it wouldn't, causing it to overheat, which is the reason for me digging into...

So what are the chances that I fixed a relay in the CCRM by jumping wire 14? When I tested the wire the first time, I swore it didn't turn on the fan but I thought maybe I wasn't on it good enough. Well it clicked then turned on. So I bought another temp gage that I could watch to see...

ok, let me get a more acurate temp gage to see where things are and I'll try both those things. Thanks

HISSIN50, I found a thread where you were helping someone with the same symptoms and you told him to unplug his ECT to see if his fan turns on. He never responded after that so the next step was lost. Mine does turn on when I unplug my ECT. Is there a chance I have 2 bad ECT's?

Def the ECT then that I have replaced twice.

I missed this, I didn't know they had to be calibrated. I have replaced it in the past without calibrating.

Definitely not talking about the temp gage, but I thought the ECT was the thing that threads into the manifold (horizontaly) and has a plug coming out the front. If you're facing the engine it is left side.

Replaced that twice, the one on the manifold. I replaced it a few years ago thinking it was responsible for a different problem but it was my distributer pickup. So I had the one that was still good so I put it in, when it didn't fix it I figured maybe it was bad so I bought another, nope...

The fan will turn on if I jump pin #14. You didn't mention if the key had to be on or off, it won't do it with the key off (if this matters). So what does this mean?

Thanks I will ASAP, can you give me a hint on which on is #14 please? edit: nevermind, I see they are numbered

Found a few threads on this, but none of them listed the fix. Low speed will not turn on, high speed works when I turn on my AC. If I unplug the sensor on the manifold (like I read on here to do) it will cycle through the low speed so I know the fan works. Also there is never power to the 10...

StangAlang0811, did you find your problem? I'm having most of the same issues including the under the hood fuse not having any power to it. Thanks

hmmm, vasoline...brillliant :) I'll do all the above, thanks guys

yeah, sorry I wasn't clear. I twice replaced the O ring. The first one I got was a rubber o ring so I thought it leaked because it was junk. The next one I got was like the original, kinda square and thick, but I still have a drip.

Twice now I have installed the sending unit with a new ring and it leaks. When I took it out it had some kind of putty looking stuff around it, does anyone know what this is or where to get it? Thanks '65 if it matters.

this is what it looks like

It was only about $30.00. I would take offf the front right fender liner and inspect the lines going to the canister like someone else said. I have read a lot of posts where the smell has been from the lines being cracked and worn. Testing the valve is pretty easy though, just buy about 8...

So I tested it by running a line into my car while I drove and it never opened, so it was bad. Replaced it and tested, the new one started creating vacuum after driving for about 5 minutes. So far the smell is gone, I also replaced my vapor canister a few months ago so i think that was also...