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trick flow cams suck ass compared to custom...well everything sucks ass compared to custom. glad I ditched my TFS1

Ill find a way to keep them dangerous

...lol this forum has gotten very gay over the years it seems. Oh well, putting a whoopin on 200,000$ rare cars with a 5,000$ foxbody isnt worth posting I guess.

The shell is sitting in my driveway Im not sure if Im going to sell the roller or keep it.

Well after 6 years of this car, building it from a bone stock 14 second car to pushing it into the 11's, its time has come. After this thread, http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/784433-cranks-no-start-orange-spark-coil.html I just had enough with the car. The car is now parted out...

Parted out and sold. RIP

car is still sitting in my driveway dead :shrug:

I looked in like 10 different parts stores and was unable to find a noid light set

just to add, I am getting 12v from BOTH sides of the coil which I know is bad, but the car does not start with the spout out ruling out the bad pip sensor. Am I testing things the wrong way or something? Im putting the positive prong into the wire then grounding it to the neg battery terminal....

yeah im getting 11.75v from the green/wire wire at the TFI

The start input youre talking about is the red/green wire correct?

Alright Ill check that out, and Ill check the tfi for 12v again.

Im pretty sure when the car only runs with the spout out, the pip sensor in the distributor is bad, which usually just leads to getting a new distributor.

btw when Im cranking it, it sometimes starts to fire then I can hear like gargling in the pipes sorta backfiring i guess

I just found that the little wire coming off of the starter solenoid (its red/lt green or blue, cant really tell) it like plugs onto the little stud at the top of the solenoid, it was burned through on the coil, so Im guessing maybe it grounded out and blew a fuse? Where exactly are the inline...

I did a test and Im getting .001 resistance between the neg side of the coil and the TFI, are there any other fuses I could look for? edit - I just tried it with the key in the run position and Im getting between 7.8 and 8.2 ohms, would the fuse be blown? and where exactly are the inline fuses?

I blew my t-5 up about 6 weeks after I started powershifting it on a regular basis.

good reply

how the hell do i do that and what would that tell me?