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i've always used stg 3 in mine

1. ditch the ihi 2. ditch the flowmaster (i did and omfg!) also run a tailpipe, even out the side 3. 12* timing is nice that really isnt bad, i made 182hp and 259ft-lbs with: T3 full 3" in to a flowmaster (at the time) starion FMIC ranger roller K&N 18psi 12* timing 91 octane...

i actually bought my mustang with every intention of supercharging it, did more research, i was going to lose power and spend a lot of money doing it, if you were to do one, i'd reccomend doing it to an NA 2.3, running an FMU and water/methanol injection i've talked repeatedly with a guy who...

me

spec clutches are awesome

i just think the car doesnt want to be raced!

there is another guy selling tubular centermounts, B2urbo you can find him on www.rangerpowersports.com or on www.turboford.org

rod sucks, dont do business with him unless you love the run-around bob is probably the closest thing to jesus on earth

i drive it like i stole it and get about 280-320miles i think it has a 160* thermostat in it tho so it may get better mileage with a 180*

i've just got the tial 38mm, i plan on making more than 400hp

the volvos have plastic end tanks and are prone to leaking, and they flow like poo a starion front mount is decently sized and flows very well, thats what i have on my mustang, my truck's IC was custom built and the price tag was $1000, glad it was already on the truck when i bought it :)

and the whole motorcraft thing is a myth, if you dont use NGK plugs use motorcraft or autolite (same) stock copper plugs cap and rotor arent a big deal, cheap wires are ok just replace them often (lifetime warranty $18 wires) i do prefer to use MSD6, NGk plugs and magnecor wires tho

you wont come close to 250whp with one of those ICs my truck made 252whp and 340ft-lbs with: stock head/block ranger roller cam stock injectors adj fuel press reg huge FMIC t3 with to4e wheel K&N 8ua computer 20psi 94 octane 13* base timing dyno tuning magnecor wires NGK plugs...

i've got a brand new SC34 turbo awaiting the truck's new engine, but i'm thinking about getting a holset? anyway, if i do decide to get a holset the SC34 would be for sale for $700 (i bought it for $800) and i have an outlet with a STAINLESS mandrel 3" downpipe welded to it, with a 3bolt...

its a 2.3T, yes i can change 30 different points on the curve from 0-5v vs flow the only way i can hit the nail on the head is with a datalogging wideband with the rpm extender so i can log the MAF voltage vs AFR....but i dont have $450 it moves pretty decent right now but the tune is way...

unless you have access to a datalogging wideband with a rpm cable (for the MAF voltage) dont bother....i'm going through hell with this thing

i'm using yours but trimming the bottom end, this is a 2.3T with a MAF conversion, i have to play with the curve, thats all ive been doing for a week, i burn my own chips btw the one you sent me runs good now except it bogs a little bit while rolling in to the boost, but under WOT, holy...

just match them up in order how your stock plug is, the wires should be in the same order if i were you i'd keep your old plug connected just in case, i've got the old and new style MAF plug on mine, i may put the stock VAM meter plug back on mine too in case i ever go back to stock

what other 70mm do you have?? that one you sent enabled me to put timing back where i wanted it and not ping all the way thru 4th gear however its horribly rich under little to no load, any idea where in the voltage scale it changes from "la-dee-da" to "gimme more fuel dammit"

the thing with the 2 vac hoses is the boost controller solenoid, ditch it and run a manual boost controller