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S/D and cams Yes it is....if you want to change cams you need a mass air conversion...there is no way around it for a street car...a guy years ago named Lee Rutter had a wickedly fast normally aspirated s/d car for the track that ran low 11's as I recall

Clockspring First off, are you sure the clockspring is bad? they only need replacing if the airbag deploys or some knucklehead turns the steering wheel with the steering shaft disconnected. I believe the only one from Ford is a superceded version and need some minor modifications to work on...

Best cam for your setup You already have the best cam for your setup. You simply do not have enough done to your car to warrant a cam change. With stock gears a cam will sound nice but run like crap!. You will lose mucho power and torque below 3000 rpm's,not to mention a big loss in gas mileage...

I have been contemplating selling my '91 and getting a newer 2000-4 GT. I was wondering what I could expect to get for my car. I am the original owner, have most stock takeoff parts,car has original paint,never been hit,never smoked in, garage kept for most of its life,no rust,been in storage...

I have been looking at pictures of the 2000-2004 Mustang GT's and the look has grown on me to the point I may sell my '91 and get a newer car. I need to know a few things from owners: 1. do the 4.6's hold up for the long haul? I have seen a lot of Crown Vic's with older mod motors smoking...

It's not that bad guys!. If you advance it 4 degrees it will have killer low end. mine will pin you in the seat and hold you there. Yes, my mileage did come down mainly because I have my foot in it more and at 2200 cruise rpm it's not as happy or efficient as the stocker, but way better than the...

Yes, do them at the same time

The e- cam is a good street cam, but like Mike Yount said, you will definetly lose gas mileage. Mine dropped to 23 highway from 28 with the stock cam with 1.72 rollers all for a cooler idle and more mid-range and hi-rpm power

The stock gauge is probably giving erratic readings, unless you inavertently put 50 wt oil in. If you have mechanic friend have him temporarily hookup a mechanical pressure gauge to verify proper oil pressure, then change the sending switch or the gauge itself. If it remains high, the bypass...

Valve train components are normally assembled using a spring compressor to depress the spring so the valve locks will fit into the retainer and slip into the grooves on the valve. The lifters go into the 16 holes in the block, then the heads get bolted on and the pushrods and rockers get bolted...

Valve lash When you say stock valve lash, I assume you mean with a stock car and stock components. Set #1 piston on the firing stroke(both valves closed) tighten each rocker arm to 25 ft lbs. At this point you should be able to spin the pushrod with your fingers....if you can't you need to...

Your car should idle lower than that my friend. Make sure your buddy didn't "modify" the T-B by drilling a hole in the butterfly or something like that, also make sure the butterfly is NOT bent. I got a cam in mine and I can get it down to 600 rpm if I want to. Also make sure the cable has some...

Msd You may not need it if you are spraying less tha 100 hp....just close the spark plug gap, otherwise the nitrous will blow out the spark. I used the MSD for show car purposes and to have a better rev limiter and mostly to use the multi-step retard so I could run 13 degrees timing off the...

The stock block may take 650hp for a very limited time with the girdle. The weak spot on 5.0's is where the main cap bolts screw into the main webbing under the cam. They will fail and split in two lengthwise along the camshaft....it was never designed to take that kind of abuse. It may stay...

I would pass on the MSD until you get nitrous or a blower. The LCA's are a different story and it is predicated on what you have in mind for your car. I didn't want the hassles of more ride discomfort so I still have my stock ones on, but I don't drag my car much, but I autocross it and use an...

I'm not aware of a circuit breaker above the solenoid. There MAY be a fusible link but no breaker.

LCA's I assume you mean rear ones. The basic idea is to provide a stronger movable mounting for the rear axle. The stock ones are flimsy and will yield dimension wise when you pop the clutch at the track or put grippy tires on and go fast around corners resulting in "slop" or play in the rear...

Rust You need to take the car to a competent body shop and have them sandblast all rusted material away and weld in NEW metal and use POR 15 inside. A small patch will work and try to seal the seam where water got in in the first place. Don't let them just bondo it up or cave and pave with...

That's normal. If your car has abnormal oil consumption, there may be a problem, but 5.0's use some oil anyway because of it's forged pistons.

Timing chain I wouldn't worry about it unless you change cams or the car runs ragged due to chain stretch(not likely). The double roller chain has no plastic parts like your Buick so it will last as long as the motor itself.