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I give it a big Thumbs Up!

I sold my drag lites so I couldn't compare them. Cenok they were $120 for the rears and $100 for the fronts.

235/60/15 dr's for the rear and 225/60/15 for the fronts.

Thought I would post a couple of pics of my new wheels. When I was doing a search for pictures of the wheels installed on a foxbody I didn't find many so here they are. There rears are 15x8 w/5.5 BS, the fronts are 15x7 w/4.75 BS. My ten hole wheels weighed 20lbs ea. The 15x8 weighed 16.4 and...

You should get the spring compressor that goes up through the middle of the spring with the hooks that rotate. It take a little bit to figure out but just take your time. You can rent them as someone mentioned. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=2454&itemType=PRODUCT It only takes one...

The Street/Strip PA valvebody can be shifted manually by doing the 1-D-1 method. I've had this valvebody and it is decent but not as nice as the Lentech Street Terminator I have now. The Lentech shifts much quicker when shifted manually.

Take a look at www.lentechautomatics.com and www.edgeracingconverters.com

If you already have shorty headers why don't you spend the money for a bigger Tbody and maf?

I would recommend a new O-ring for the filler tube when you put it back in.

That's interesting. I couldn't get my long tubes to fit with the Prothane mm. I figured I needed about 1/2" more clearance. The ES mm probably would've worked. Too bad I sold the long tubes. Thanks for the info.:nice:

Here is mine: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2418116/1 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/107780/1

I'm going to get some insurance through American Hobbiest Insurance this spring. So I figure it's worth between 10 and 12k. Right now I only have liability. Using American Hobbiest I'd be paying about half my current premium but for full coverage.

Not looking to sell just curious what some others thought. I'd have to be really desperate to sell for 7k though.

To be honest I used a 4x4 across the strut towers and ratchet straps. I didn't have my upper intake on and I notched the 4x4 for my camber plates. Worked great for me. I use a www.PARacing.com Kmember. It bolted right up and I have had no issues.

Very nice!

The parts: ENGINE: FRPP hoses, new dipstick tube, Kirban AFPR and Jeg’s gauge, ported GT40 lower and powder coated upper intake, Mr. Gasket 4364 180 t-stat, GT40 manifold cover, new IAC and coolant temp. sensor, BBK aluminum under drive pulleys, Felpro 40620 rear main seal, AFR 165 #1472...

Painted ten holes.

Both are inside. The alternator cable on the pass. side and the battery cable on the drvers side.

Well I'm done for now. Not as fancy or sophisticated as some but it does look better. I hate putting the fender liners back in. It seems they never come out or go in the same way. Thanks for your help Almoststock! Before After

I was going to powder coat them but the cost was $65 a wheel and they're not worth that. They turned out nice though. I'll post a pic once I get once I get my wire hiding finished.