02 GT Gear Install

KarmaKid

New Member
Apr 8, 2005
84
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0
Western MA
Hey guys,

I know there a millions of threads out there for gear install questions. I have read many of them butlooking for a specific answer.

I am heading over to my local shop that a friend of mine with the same year GT had his 3:73's installed. My friend was satisfied with the quality of install and has no complaints. The install was about a year ago.

What are some questions I should ask? What are things I should make sure he uses, does, installs? Lubrication use?

Thanks in advance for the input.
 
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depending on how many miles your car has, you might want to get the bearings replaced and the t-lok rebuilt. I'd go with royal purple for the gear oil. Cant remember the exact weight, so ill just let someone else chime in with that.
 
Kilgore Trout said:
The installer will know what to do, don't be giving him a bunch of advice and pissing him off...


LOL....I hear ya man. That's the last thing I want to do.

I just want to make sure he knows what he's doing is all. I just want to be re-assured that when I spend 500.00, I'm going ot be satisfied and there arent going to be any issues down the line.

He said I could buy the parts, so I'm thinking FORD Racing gears.

There is 40,000 miles on the car, 6,000 of which I put on. So I don't think it will need a rebuild on the T-LOC, which I'm not to sure what that is anyways. Is the T-LOK a lever of some sort that locks the axle into posi or something?

Which install kit would someone recommend from experience? He also said about 225.00 for labor (70.00 an hour and about 3 hours to do it).

One more thing.....I was reading about the T-LOK to get a better idea of what it does, and why its there. I had a friend of mine do a REDICULOUS burnout the night before I had 4 new tires put on. The patch was about 50 feet long, so I'm thinking he power braked it, didnt ask. When I do a normal burnout, it only leaves one tire patch, not two. I take it this means I should buy the T-LOK rebuild and have it done when the gears are installed?
 
Yes your Trac Lock needs rebuilt if you consistently get one wheel peel doing straight burnouts. One wheel peel can be normal when doing curved burnouts. Make sure carbon fiber frictions are used for the rebuild. You will need 4 ounces of friction modifier for the Trac-Lok to work properly.

There are 3 levels of installation kits for the gears. These kits can be found on www.fordracingparts.com but do not buy from them, you can find the stuff cheaper from other online retailers.

Definitely go with all FRPP parts and supplies. You will also need 4 quarts of 75W-140 full synthetic gear lube. NOT 80W-90 dyno gear oil!!! :notnice:

Go to the FRPP website and check out the installation kits...
 
Kilgore Trout said:
Yes your Trac Lock needs rebuilt if you consistently get one wheel peel doing straight burnouts. One wheel peel can be normal when doing curved burnouts. Make sure carbon fiber frictions are used for the rebuild. You will need 4 ounces of friction modifier for the Trac-Lok to work properly.

There are 3 levels of installation kits for the gears. These kits can be found on www.fordracingparts.com but do not buy from them, you can find the stuff cheaper from other online retailers.

Definitely go with all FRPP parts and supplies. You will also need 4 quarts of 75W-140 full synthetic gear lube. NOT 80W-90 dyno gear oil!!! :notnice:

Go to the FRPP website and check out the installation kits...

Thanks for the info......
 
Since you're going to have everything out, you might as well REPLACE everything.

Buy an 8.8 rebuild kit which will include a new shims, bearings, seals, and races. Also buy a set of axle tube bearings and seals. And get a Trac-lok rebuild kit.

Remember to change the gears they'll have to pull your trac-loc out anyway. Ford does not recommend reusing your cross-pin bolt and the trac-lok rebuild kit will come with a new bolt.

You'll also need a tad over 2 quarts of 75w-140 gear oil and 4oz of friction modifier.
 
Couple More Questions

Thanks so far for the inof, most of it has been helpful.

I purchased the FRPP 3:73's today and scheduled the install for the 1st week of December, then the car is getting stored and its on to my 93 Plymouth Acclaim for winter:( ....LOL

I spoke with a few peeps in regards to the rearend gear install and they recommended getting a new center, like auburn or something similar. I dont really want to spend an addtl 500.00 on another center. This would make a huge difference or a small one? Swapping the stock center with an aftermarket is more about durability and quality?

Thanks again
 
The term for what you call the center is the differential. You should stick with what you have. People will recommend all kinds of crazy stuff, much of which is unsuitable for the street.

Since you are on a budget keep the differential that you have.
 
if you were to upgrade your posi, I'd say go with a 31 spline unit (stock is 28. and higher the count, the better) but then you'd have to spend another $300 on matching axles in addition to whatever amount to the posi you buy.

if you're not an avid drag racer, I say stock is good enough, but if you spend a lot of time at the tracks, save up more and have them installed all at once. the guy installing my gears isn't charging extra to put in the new axles and posi since the stock units are already out.

ask him what he's replacing:
bearings, races, etc. ask if the price includes all fluids (4oz friction modifier, rear end fluid). $500 for everything, or just labor? if its just labor, you're getting bent over with no friction modifier :p.
 
$500 for a gear install? Dude, I paid a Ford DEALERSHIP $390 to install mine and you know how expensive they are. If it's $500 for gears and everything then go for it, but I think $500 is too much. Ford also guranteed the work. If they whined they would re-do them.
 
Kilgore Trout said:
The term for what you call the center is the differential. You should stick with what you have. People will recommend all kinds of crazy stuff, much of which is unsuitable for the street.

Since you are on a budget keep the differential that you have.


Ahh...Differential is the correct terminology, that's what I thought. I completely agree your opinion in regards to the differential seeing as how I am aiming towards a streetable, but quick and clean GT. Sometimes I just need a little reassurance....:p


Jeremy
 
As I stated in my $4,000 question post, I have decided it is not a very smart idea to spend all my savings on a Mongoose kit from Tim at MPH. So instead I am spending around $1500 on gears, exhaust and SCT tuner. I am also returning the 3:73's for 4:10's. Heres my problem.....I went to ask the guy who is doing the gear install if he would rebuild my trak lok while he was in there and he said NO! I havent dumped the clutch in a straight line to see whether or not its toast, but I figured might as well rebuild while were its apart. So then I started thinking about a new diff.. He recommended an Auburn diff., but he IS kinda old school/ I did some research and now see that the Auburn is not rebuildible? Looks like the one to go with is the Detroit Tru Trac which is like 550.00. then I started to think I could just buy a new FRPP stock 8.8 28 spline diff for 220.00 and have him install it. I figure the rebuild kit was 50.00 and prob another 80.00 in labor I would almost be ther ein price. I dont plan on racing or dragging. I just want posi damnit! Im afraid I dont do anything with the diff. that either the clutches are already toast or almost. I dunno wha tto do. HELP! O yeah, the rest of my funds are going to the SCT X-Cal tuner and flomaster catback. He is charging about 220.00 for the gear install.
 
As I stated in my $4,000 question post, I have decided it is not a very smart idea to spend all my savings on a Mongoose kit from Tim at MPH. So instead I am spending around $1500 on gears, exhaust and SCT tuner. I am also returning the 3:73's for 4:10's. Heres my problem.....I went to ask the guy who is doing the gear install if he would rebuild my trak lok while he was in there and he said NO! I havent dumped the clutch in a straight line to see whether or not its toast, but I figured might as well rebuild while were its apart. So then I started thinking about a new diff.. He recommended an Auburn diff., but he IS kinda old school/ I did some research and now see that the Auburn is not rebuildible? Looks like the one to go with is the Detroit Tru Trac which is like 550.00. then I started to think I could just buy a new FRPP stock 8.8 28 spline diff for 220.00 and have him install it. I figure the rebuild kit was 50.00 and prob another 80.00 in labor I would almost be ther ein price. I dont plan on racing or dragging. I just want posi damnit! Im afraid I dont do anything with the diff. that either the clutches are already toast or almost. I dunno wha tto do. HELP! O yeah, the rest of my funds are going to the SCT X-Cal tuner and flomaster catback. He is charging about 220.00 for the gear install.

If this guy won't rebuild your diff, don't go to him, simple as that. It's an easy 30 minute (including soak time) job once the differential is out of the car.
 
If this guy won't rebuild your diff, don't go to him, simple as that. It's an easy 30 minute (including soak time) job once the differential is out of the car.

That's how I'm feeling abou the whole thing. He says he hates dealing with the diff.. If that's the case, I don't want him touching ANYTHING on my car.


Yes, ty, I have read both of those articles, but I'm not the one installing, he is. He just does'nt want to rebuild the diff., which I think is rediculous. Like Benny said, just don't go to him. Now I need to find someone else around here that knows what there doing.