'02 GT won't start after unbolting dashboard

B

bmylez

New Member
Aug 22, 2010
21
0
1
San Antonio, TX
#1
Hey everyone, have an '02 GT with 70k miles. I got the car recently from a complete ricer so I've been trying to give the car some TLC. After I bought the car I noticed that the heater core lines had been cut...only reason for that would be that the core was leaking, no?

So I ordered a new heater core and went to install it last weekend. My friend and I unbolted the dash without removing the steering wheel (except for the steering shaft 10mm bolt, of course). I read on the forums that removing the steering wheel isn't necessary. Anyhow, I wasn't even able to change the heater core because I couldn't get one of the A/C lines unhooked on the firewall side (any help with that?).

Since we can't do the heater core, we say ***** it, and put just about everything back to together. I go to start the car, the gauges do a full sweep and all that, but when I turn the key to "start," nothing happens. No ticking, no noises, nothing. The odometer blinks off like it wants to start, but there's something preventing the starter from engaging. I don't see any wires that have been pulled from the clutch position sensor. Anyone have any ideas why the car won't start? Also, my seat's electronics don't work either.

Thanks in advance.
 

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#2
Manual or automatic? If automatic, did you get the gear shift interlock re-connected?

There is a ground near the PCM. Did you re-connect?

Might also try jumping the starter solenoid and see if it is just the starter circuit that is not working. Be sure the car is in nuetral/park and the wheels are blocked and parking brake set. This could be very risky if the car is not actually in park/neutral!!!

Check all of the fuses in the battery junction box (BJB). Since most are "hot at all times", it is easy to see how a fuse could have been blown.

Next check all of the fuses in the Central Junction box (CJB) near the driver's kick panel.

I could go through the wiring diagrams and tell you which fuses to check. However, it just seems like better use of time to check all of them considering the recent work done.

I also assume that the few connectors that are in the dash went back together well and feel fully inserted and you have double checked your work.

With regards to heater repair. I have done it and you are correct. It is no walk in the park. However, I did disconnect and drop the steering column onto the floor. I am having trouble visualizing how the dash could have been removed without disconnecting the steering column.

If after checking the fuses, it still does not start, post back up with a list of what does not work. I will cross check the wiring diagrams and tell you what to check.

Good luck
 
#3
It's a manual (as I said in earlier post, I checked wires to clutch position sensor). I checked all the large fuses in the BJB. None blown. I didn't check the CJB yet, but it's just so weird that the car won't start *and* the driver seat controls don't work.

We didn't pull the dash out completely. Just enough to get to the heater core case. That's why I only unbolted the steering wheel linkage bolt. Didn't seem to be tugging on any wires. There are 3 harnesses on the passenger side that have to be disconnected to get to the heater core, but I definitely plugged those back in. Today I removed the driver seat and took a good hard look at all the wires and harnesses. Couldn't see anything that had been obviously yanked out. At a huge loss right now. I'll check the CJB tomorrow.

Were your A/C lines hard to get apart? The black one was a cinch. The silver one will not budge no matter how hard I pull. I don't want to pull any harder because it's aluminum and will probably break. Wish I could cut it and put a copper compression fitting on later...
 
#4
Starting: F1.3 F2.6
Power seats: F1.18 F2.15

F1=Battery Junction Box (BJB)
F2=Central Junction Box (CJB)

Did you re-connect the dash grounds? All of the mounting bolts?

To narrow down, remove fuse F2.6. Probe both sides for +12 volts in start (clutch doesn't matter). If no voltage, the problem is fuse F1.3 or the ignition switch.

If voltage is found, likely the problem is in the clutch safety switch.

I can not find any points the starter and power seats have in common. Likely the driver's seat problem is the result of your disconnection for access. Go back and check all of the connectors. Check the fuses listed above associated with the power seats.

With regards to the AC lines, yes they can be a PIA. What I found was the tool was not always releasing the spring. Try pushing the fitting together while holding the release tool. Rotate the release tool to be sure that the tool is completely holding the spring. Maintain pressure on the tool as the lines are pulled apart.
 
#5
I don't remember disconnecting any "dash grounds," at all. Just the 2 bolts on the driver's side, 6 on the center console, and 2 on the passenger side. Perhaps a fuse blew in the CJB, so I'll find out tomorrow.

As for the A/C line...no idea what you're talking about, haha. I don't have a tool. I just took that plastic clip off and tried to pull the line apart. The black line was easy as pie. So what tool do I need?
 
#6
bmylez:

You can get A/C line disconnect tools at AutoZone for $5. They are plastic t-shaped 'circles' that slip over the line and a portion slips into the joint to expand the spring (hidden). You need this package of disconnect tools for the A/C lines and, more frequently, for the fuel line (e.g.--fuel filter replacement).

I can't help much with electrical stuff, lol, so I am bowing out of this thread and letting Mr. Burns work his usual magic.

GL and I hope you get your car running again soon.

Chris
 
#8
Niiice. Thanks guys. Now I can do my heater core. Looks like I'll be unbolting the dash again, haha. Maybe if I unbolt the dash it will make the car want to start...

Oh, here's one thing that is driving me absolutely crazy. In the Hayne's manual, it says how to remove the center console that's around the shifter/hand brake...except that it doesn't slip off like it says. I can't for the life of me get it off of the hand brake. It doesn't mention removing the hand brake, so...what gives?
 
#9
bmylez said:
Niiice. Thanks guys. Now I can do my heater core. Looks like I'll be unbolting the dash again, haha. Maybe if I unbolt the dash it will make the car want to start...

Oh, here's one thing that is driving me absolutely crazy. In the Hayne's manual, it says how to remove the center console that's around the shifter/hand brake...except that it doesn't slip off like it says. I can't for the life of me get it off of the hand brake. It doesn't mention removing the hand brake, so...what gives?
Click to expand...

Did you have to get the A/C discharged, I assuming so since you are disconnecting the A/C lines.
 
#11
Did you remove the center finish panel around the gear shift first? The part around the e-brake is not the same as around the gear shift. It is held in place with pressure clips.

>>>from Ford service CD
Instrument Panel —Center Finish Panel
Removal and Installation

All vehicles
Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01.

Vehicles with automatic transmission
Place the selector lever in the 1 position.

Vehicles with manual transmission
Remove the gearshift lever handle.

All vehicles
Remove the floor console finish panel.
Disconnect the electrical connector
 
#12
Dumb question but...it looks like it's one piece to me. When I asked if we could split it in half, my friend was convinced that the entire plastic piece surrounding the shifter and the handbrake was one piece. I don't see any physical way possible of getting it off of both at the same time with the tight space.
 
#13
bmylez said:
Dumb question but...it looks like it's one piece to me. When I asked if we could split it in half, my friend was convinced that the entire plastic piece surrounding the shifter and the handbrake was one piece. I don't see any physical way possible of getting it off of both at the same time with the tight space.
Click to expand...

Where are you located in San Antonio? PM me I am near and might be able to help you with the center console piece but with the other stuff I wouldn't be much help.
 
#14
bmylez said:
Dumb question but...it looks like it's one piece to me. When I asked if we could split it in half, my friend was convinced that the entire plastic piece surrounding the shifter and the handbrake was one piece. I don't see any physical way possible of getting it off of both at the same time with the tight space.
Click to expand...
Trust me. There are TWO pieces. The piece around the gear shift lever will come off if you simply pull up. Once the trim ring around the shifter is removed, I bet it will make more sense.
 
#17
Well...PCM or ECU = computer. ECM is just the memory, not the entire computer. It does seem that it would cause the car not to work correctly in some way, though. Now...as I said before, the previous owner was a ricer and put a 15A fuse in there instead of a 5A...seeing that the fuse blew and it was 10A higher, I'm really really hoping it didn't fry whatever it was connected to.
 
#18
bmylez said:
Went lookin through the CJB and found a blown fuse 21 - Instrument Cluster and Engine Control Memory. Does that help?
Click to expand...
Fuse F2.21 is the always on power source for the instrument cluster. From the factory it is a 5 amp fuse.

My theory on why it wouldn't start. Fuse F2.21 powers the cluster. What is in the cluster that is required for starting? How about the anti-theft (PATS) system?

Since the PATS receiver is in the cluster, no power = no PATS. I'm sure that a well designed security system wouldn't allow access if the power is cut.

Now the trick is to figure out why the factory fuse keeps blowing. Is there anything added?
 
#19
Well, it doesn't "keep" blowing. The car was running for 3 weeks with no probs...and then dropping the dash did something. Also, the fuse is really old and beat up looking. Not sure if that makes a difference or not. It would be pretty awesome if all I needed was that fuse to start back up.
 
#20
I was partially lazy today and didn't get a 5A fuse....

BUT

I am proud to announce that I changed the heater core without a lot more fuss. I did it all by myself, too. Didn't break anything that I could see and I double checked all the connections on the passenger side. Not done putting the car back together, but a lot of the grunt work is done.
 
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