04 Will Not Start Sometimes

[inenidok]

ok i have owed older mustangs but in my opinon these cars are junk now, the other week filled car up and then a plug blowed out never had an engine do that, hear its a common thing with fords, if that is true my next one will be chevy, got the car out of shop 400.00 later drove to work came back from my trip went to start the car to come home the damn thing started cut off would not start back. another tow charge then too the shop they could not start it then it started shut it off would not start back, well they called the next day said they believe pats system is shorting out and there are no replacement parts and they offered 8 differents systems in the mustang 04, but no longer available, so is there anyway to delete this system altogether not a bypass i mean remove it. or is this car just junk.

 

[soupnutz]

All cars have more issues as they start to get older. I have a lot more problems with my 01 bmw than I do my 98 mustang. Problem is, there is more and more electronics on them and they get harder to troubleshoot/fix. I wouldn't trust most shops to troubleshoot electrical problems.

Usually with pats you'll see the light flashing or something if it's causing an issue. With a tuner, you can disable the pats system though.

 

[inenidok]

well the shop told me they was no way to disable the pats? so i dont know but you say you can disable it with a tuner

 

[wmburns]

well they called the next day said they believe pats system is shorting out and there are no replacement parts and they offered 8 differents systems in the mustang 04, but no longer available, so is there anyway to delete this system altogether not a bypass i mean remove it. or is this car just junk.

<in best Darth Vader voice>Yes. Your Mustang is junk. Give it to the Stig......

It is not true that the 04 came with 8 different factory PATS systems. It came from the factory with ONE. It is true that Ford has produced a number of different PATS systems over the years and there are slight differences.

Further the PATS system is built into the PCM. So if they really believed that PATS is shorting out, then replacing the PCM would be in order. Note there are some other parts associated with PATS. But it's pure BS that the parts aren't available from somewhere (can anybody say salvage yard?)

Why guess? Test.

Turn the key on but do NOT crank. Does the theft light go off after a 3 second "prove out"? If yes then PATS is not the reason why your Mustang isn't starting.

I have doubts that your problem is PATS related. Why? Because PATS will NEVER turn the motor off once it has started. So if the motor is dying while under way then the problem is NOT being caused by PATS.

Also might be a good idea to start doing the work yourself or to get a new mechanic. Seems likely that the one you have is guessing.

Here's a crank with no start check list with some more information:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/4-6l-tech/336452-1997-mustang-wont-ignite.html#2984838

Looking for an educated guess? If this were my car based upon the recent spark plug blow out, I would look for engine wiring harness damage caused by the spark plug blowing out.

 

[Noobz347]

Also might be a good idea to start doing the work yourself or to get a new mechanic. Seems likely that the one you have is guessing.

I will go so far as to say that the current mechanic is an idiot without enough integrity to just say, "I don't know". He should stick to towing. Please follow wmburns advice inenidok

 

[inenidok]

welll the car did dye after starting and then the thief light started flashing and would not start, and the price a slavage yard wants for a pats system and no return policy i not buying one in a junk yard and here most everything 10 years old and older been crushed, but i have had problems with a thumbing sound in the intake, replaced IAC EGR, and its blowed plugs out, if i did not owe money on it i would scrap it, first modular ford engine i have owned and lets say i am not impressed with it, reminds me of the yamaha 32 quad cam 3.4 liter sho motor that was plaqued with cam failure, but yamaha was smart that stopped production of the engine for ford. i just hope this mustang is totaled and i dont have to take a lost on it

 

[wmburns]

well the car did dye after starting and then the thief light started flashing and would not start

Consider that the flashing theft light could be a SYMPTOM of the problem and not the problem itself.

What if the REAL problem is power is being interrupted to the PCM. If true the motor would indeed die while running. Further more the theft light would start flashing because the cluster would attempt to re-establish communications with the PCM. And of course the motor would not re-start without a working PCM.

There are perhaps 100's of reasons how power could be interrupted to the PCM. They will remain a mystery until some basic detailed tests are run. Tests that anyone with a volt-ohm meter and some time can run.

If you are still focused on this being a PATS problem, then it is quite possible to disable with a hand held tuner and custom tune.

For what it's worth, the #1 reason why the Ford modular motor will blow out spark plugs is under or over torquing of the spark plugs themselves.

Good luck.

 

[inenidok]

thanks for the info i will have to see about getting wire diagrams on the car, a try to figure out if i am lossing voltage the car acts up off and on thats whats confussing it will stumble at idle when at a light sometimes getting more often. it makes the thumping sound more often, some times it dies at the light or a stop.now with the pats issue near about scare to drive it my wife wont now, it first thought the cats was stopped up nope i bought bbk x pipe no change IAC EGR nope then the thief light crap. i am a non computer push rod guy, blower etc guy i am old school engine guy.

 

[wmburns]

If you are interested in getting a full set of wiring diagrams and Ford service manual for your car I maybe able to help. PM if interested.

Has the battery and alternator been tested? No excuse to skip these tests as almost all auto parts stores will test for free. Bottom line. Today's cars simply will NOT run right without a strong battery and charging system.

Since you are a low tech "old school" kind of guy, you will like this. Get yourself an "add a fuse". Tap into fuse F2.34. Connect the add a fuse pig tail to your Volt-Ohm meter. Position the VOM so that you can see it while driving. What we are looking for is to see IF the voltage drops when the problem occurs. Repeat for fuse F2.2.


1999-2004 fuse panel schedule:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...r-swap-wont-fire-please-help.html#post2669271

 

[inenidok]

yes battery and alt been test and are with in norm i am interested too that was the first thing i asked to be tested, because i know if you lose voltage happens will even happen on a old school you drop voltage on a coil it will shut off the engine