05 Mustang Classic Design Concept Shaker System

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tapd117 said:
I called CDC this morning and spoke with the technical support guys. I told them what I thought the problem was. I'm not going to haggle over if its ram air or cold air, but the fact remains the air flow increases as your speed increases (whatever). CDC has good tech support. Patrick with CDC tech support stated the 05 Mustang GT's are very sensitive and they thought that I had pretty much diagnoised my own problem. I'm going to have Ford check for any codes or sensor errors, I mentioned another comment about it leaning out, which someone suggested and they thought it made sense. In the short term, I'm going to take the plug out that blocks the fender hole in the air box and run both like Rickman is doing on his. Bottom line is the kit really looks good on the car and there is some small amount of added performance. They have not dyno tuned a CDC Shaker yet, but are in the process. Enjoyed the phone conversation last night Rickman. I didn't get the pictures today, but am trying.... My Stang will be at the dealer Thursday morning. If it throws any codes I'll pass it along.

GG

Yeah, let us know :nice:. Are you concerned with Ford voiding your warranty?
 
05 BLK-BLK said:
Yeah, let us know :nice:. Are you concerned with Ford voiding your warranty?
Tony,

No I'm really not, I've been modifying mustangs since my first 1966 when I was 17, I'm older and wiser now. Went through mid life crisis and finally did something for myself, ordered an 05 Mustang in early 2004 delivered in October and enjoy driving, I'm not the mechanic type. I did have a ford tech install the shaker on a weekend and asked him what he thought about warranty issues, he didn't see any issues but I suppose Ford hasn't weighed in on the subject yet. If you think about it, all your doing is trying to shove more air down the fuel injection system. This is most likely the last car I'll buy unless I get the GT 500 fever for a SHELBY, who knows....

GG
 
CDC Shaker Bogging Issue Resolved

Well I've been round the world on this subject and finally got the car into the dealer this morning. There were no warranty issues at my local dealer other than wow, where did that car come from with the hood scoop when I pulled up this morning.

Here is what the codes said, I'm not a mechanic, but it had to do with the Mass Air Sensor according to the tech; He states Perform EEC Test, Code P0104, Perform Pinpoint Test DC11, Found Open Circuit #968 TN/LB Connector C1758E, found pin also not fully seated in connector due to broken tab. Repaired connector and road tested.

He took the car out and ran it through all five gears and verified the car was getting to much air :damnit: which he believes and CDC also thought was the problem on this car, he also removed the CDC air box plug and reran with no codes showing :spot: I'm in business again rickman :banana:

Well enough said on this Shaker install, I saw another post where they had comments about getting to the throttle body bolts today, hopefully end of story. Take Care,

GG
 
GG - I'm glad to hear you are rockin' once again but at the same time I'm concerned about the lean-out issue. It's not apparent that all these cars have the same problem. I don't recall reading that Rickman has put any special programming or tune on his car and he has tracked it without any trouble like this.

I'm still suspecting a fuel delivery / pressure problem in your car and by limiting the amount of air that the engine sees - well - I think it's just a band-aid man...
 
Bigfoot,

I'll just have to wait and see, I've had the car for a year with not a trip to the dealer with 6800 miles until today. No issues with the car until I put the cold air induction kit on. If it's a fuel issue as you suspect, it will show up at some time in the future. You have to put some stock in the fact, it didn't have any issues until I tried to push more air through the throttle body. From my standpoint the car runs strong, looks good, and I'm happy. It will be interesting to watch some of the other forum members with their installs and see if this shows up again. Thanks for your advice.

GG
 
I hope to be installing mine this weekend. I'll let you know how it performs. I am not really expecting much of a performance improvement but it should help some as the air the engine is breathing is cold and more dense than if it were getting underhood air..
 
Got the Shaker installed today...

3 hours? I don't think so....

I'm a fabricator and don't like to do things twice so maybe I was too careful - it was more like 5 hours end to end.. Hopefully some of this information will help you or someone you know do this job a little easier or will clue them in that they may actually need to have someone else do this job if they're not pretty familiar with hand tools..

The instructions are actually a little sparse in places. For instance - they tell you to pull the hood insulator blanket off, but don't tell you how to get the expansion buttons out without damaging them.

The template - wow... A giant photo-copy. I only wish it would have been perfect. The alignment marks on the template were fine in the rear-center and rear-left (driver's side) but the rear-right alingment mark was off by over 1/8". Now 1/8" doesn't sound like much, twisting the template so the rear-left and rear-right were aligned, moved the front-center alignment off by 3/4" :eek:
I spent a good hour just getting the measurements right and getting the flat paper template to try and conform to the compound curvature of the hood. It paid off as the hole in the hood turned out to be perfectly located..

Cutting the hood. They tell you to make sure you have the hood elevated, but they don't tell you how high. I used a 4x4 about 2' long laid across the air-inlet hose (left to right). There is much of the double-panel that you will be cutting through with your jig-saw. Take it nice and slow. I spent a good 45 minutes just cutting out the hole in the hood with a fine tooth carbide blade. I stopped plenty of times to clean the blade and let it cool.
One thing they don't tell you is that when you are about 2/3 of the way done with cutting the hole, the center of the hole starts vibrating a LOT and it threatens to bind on your jig-saw blade (not good)... I used a styrofoam block on top of the engine to support the bottom of the hood (the hole) to keep it from screwing up the operation..

The front mounting bolts are a royal PITB. I will re-engineer this. As it was - I did end up notching the front facia a little to make enough room to get the tools in place while still being able to see what you are working on. The job does go a little easier if you pull the 2 - 8mm bolts out that hold the coolant reservoir in place and move it aside while you get the bolts started.
Don't tighten the bolts until you test-close the hood and make sure you have the scoop centered in the hood-hole. Make your adjustment and then tighten the bolts.

The hood ring and facia panel are not marked front/rear. There is a notch about 5" wide on one end of the ring and facia - that goes to the rear.
They tell you to trim the bottom of the intake for the clamp that holds the ball-socket mount on. My intake needed no trimming at all. Born on date of my car was 12/04.

Extra stuff you will need:

* They want you to use thread-locker on the allen bolt that retains the ball-socket mount but they don't include it in the kit.

* A Rat-Tail file will be handy when you finally realize that you may need to notch the front of the engine cover to get at the throttle-body bolts.

* Duct tape (Red-Green is my hero) - It's handy to tape the throttle-body bolts to the socket. It sucks when you drop the bolt out of the socket and it is buried somewhere under the cover that takes you an additional 20 minutes to remove and re-install.. :(

* 2" brown masking tape (the good stuff not cheap stuff) to tape off the hood before you put the template on it. The blue painter's masking tape releases too easily and will wad-up as you are using your jig-saw on the hood (not good).

* Xacto knife to cut the template hole - it works a lot better than a razor blade or carpet knife.

* Pop-Rivet tool to pull the 1/8" pop-rivets in the hood trim ring.

If you ever need to take your car to the dealer for service - you best give them a heads-up on how this scoop/engine cover is attached. They're going to hate your guts if you don't... :mad:

One thing that I wish the kit had was an insulating gasket to insulate / seal the engine cover to the hood.. Rain water is channeled pretty well, but if you end up in a monsoon or carwash, your engine compartment is going to take on some water. I don't even want to think about what snow and ice would do with this system... :rolleyes:


The end result was gorgeous. The car looks good and looks factory.. And yes - the shaker shakes! :D


Also - thanks to Glenn (tapd117) here for sending me the Yellow letters "MUSTANG" for the engine cover.. They look great! I just need to figure out how to post pics!

:spot: :cheers:
 
Big-Foot said:
Got the Shaker installed today...

3 hours? I don't think so....

I'm a fabricator and don't like to do things twice so maybe I was too careful - it was more like 5 hours end to end.. Hopefully some of this information will help you or someone you know do this job a little easier or will clue them in that they may actually need to have someone else do this job if they're not pretty familiar with hand tools..

The instructions are actually a little sparse in places. For instance - they tell you to pull the hood insulator blanket off, but don't tell you how to get the expansion buttons out without damaging them.

The template - wow... A giant photo-copy. I only wish it would have been perfect. The alignment marks on the template were fine in the rear-center and rear-left (driver's side) but the rear-right alingment mark was off by over 1/8". Now 1/8" doesn't sound like much, twisting the template so the rear-left and rear-right were aligned, moved the front-center alignment off by 3/4" :eek:
I spent a good hour just getting the measurements right and getting the flat paper template to try and conform to the compound curvature of the hood. It paid off as the hole in the hood turned out to be perfectly located..

Cutting the hood. They tell you to make sure you have the hood elevated, but they don't tell you how high. I used a 4x4 about 2' long laid across the air-inlet hose (left to right). There is much of the double-panel that you will be cutting through with your jig-saw. Take it nice and slow. I spent a good 45 minutes just cutting out the hole in the hood with a fine tooth carbide blade. I stopped plenty of times to clean the blade and let it cool.
One thing they don't tell you is that when you are about 2/3 of the way done with cutting the hole, the center of the hole starts vibrating a LOT and it threatens to bind on your jig-saw blade (not good)... I used a styrofoam block on top of the engine to support the bottom of the hood (the hole) to keep it from screwing up the operation..

The front mounting bolts are a royal PITB. I will re-engineer this. As it was - I did end up notching the front facia a little to make enough room to get the tools in place while still being able to see what you are working on. The job does go a little easier if you pull the 2 - 8mm bolts out that hold the coolant reservoir in place and move it aside while you get the bolts started.
Don't tighten the bolts until you test-close the hood and make sure you have the scoop centered in the hood-hole. Make your adjustment and then tighten the bolts.

The hood ring and facia panel are not marked front/rear. There is a notch about 5" wide on one end of the ring and facia - that goes to the rear.
They tell you to trim the bottom of the intake for the clamp that holds the ball-socket mount on. My intake needed no trimming at all. Born on date of my car was 12/04.

Extra stuff you will need:

* They want you to use thread-locker on the allen bolt that retains the ball-socket mount but they don't include it in the kit.

* A Rat-Tail file will be handy when you finally realize that you may need to notch the front of the engine cover to get at the throttle-body bolts.

* Duct tape (Red-Green is my hero) - It's handy to tape the throttle-body bolts to the socket. It sucks when you drop the bolt out of the socket and it is buried somewhere under the cover that takes you an additional 20 minutes to remove and re-install.. :(

* 2" brown masking tape (the good stuff not cheap stuff) to tape off the hood before you put the template on it. The blue painter's masking tape releases too easily and will wad-up as you are using your jig-saw on the hood (not good).

* Xacto knife to cut the template hole - it works a lot better than a razor blade or carpet knife.

* Pop-Rivet tool to pull the 1/8" pop-rivets in the hood trim ring.

If you ever need to take your car to the dealer for service - you best give them a heads-up on how this scoop/engine cover is attached. They're going to hate your guts if you don't... :mad:

One thing that I wish the kit had was an insulating gasket to insulate / seal the engine cover to the hood.. Rain water is channeled pretty well, but if you end up in a monsoon or carwash, your engine compartment is going to take on some water. I don't even want to think about what snow and ice would do with this system... :rolleyes:


The end result was gorgeous. The car looks good and looks factory.. And yes - the shaker shakes! :D


Also - thanks to Glenn (tapd117) here for sending me the Yellow letters "MUSTANG" for the engine cover.. They look great! I just need to figure out how to post pics!

:spot: :cheers:
sweet, i like the "details" that are not in the instructions!!!!! sounds like a good heads up for everyone else looking to do this mod!!
 
Randy,

Glad it turned out okay, can't wait to see your pictures :banana: . You were right on with your comments. On my install, I took the hood to a really good body shop.

Although CDC recommends cutting the hood in place. The body shop removed the hood and this saved all the metal shavings from getting in the engine compartment. I told you the throttle body bolts would be a bugger, :lol: but after you get it on, you really have a great addition to your car.

I took mine to a Ford Tech for the last part of the install, putting on the cold air induction tube that has to be cut into the air box. I did this to make sure they got a headups up on how this CDC Shaker is held to the motor with the two throttle body bolts, I didn't want them pulling it off on a warranty job, god forbid, not knowing there were only two bolts holding it on. I didn't use lock tight because it wasn't in the kit. Even the body shop said they had issues with the cutting of the hole. I'm still waiting on my teenager, to shoot some better pictures :shrug: . The colored inserts really sets off the shaker, doesn't it.

How did your car operate with the shaker any issues like I had.

Take Care, GG :cheers:
 
CDC Shaker Pictures

Two shots of my CDC install on my 2005 Mustang GT, I used a low resolution camera, sorry folks to post the shots. The shaker certainly makes the car look really great.

I'm going for the 1969 Mustang Mach 1 look and just couldn't resist the addition of the Cobra Jet Emblems (don't hammer me on these being out of place), :spot: the MUSTAND letter inserts on the shaker are the same as your door inserts, I used red ones purchased off e-bay for $9.99 and put a set in the doors and also on the Shaker.........

GG
 
CDC Shaker Install Information

I've been running mine now for 2 years. CDC shipped me one of the first that went to Arkansas. Other than the bogging issue that appeared to be a damaged mass air flow sensor that was addressed in previous posts, I have had no problems.

I will note that my exhaust under accelleration has gotten louder and sounds better with the Shaker System.

I again stress to have a good body shop cut your hood as it can go South quickly if you scratch it. The CDC trim ring is forgivening if you opt to do it your self. Also the throttle body bolts as I recall were a real bugger.

Try a flexable socket wrench to get them in. This was some of the best money I have ever spent on my GT. I haven't broke 12,000 miles in 24 months and still really baby it.

The Shaker was a great choice, just my thoughts: