1 3/4" Shelby UCA drop and negative wedge

I've read alot about it here on this Forum and other places about the negative wedge situation and the cure. Is the "piece" that changes the angle of the upper ball joint simply a wedge shapped piece of metal installed between the ball joint and the UCA ?

and
On a 1965-66 Mustang chassis, If you lower the upper comtrol arms 1 3/4", do you need to make the lower control arms adjustable like on a 67-70 to aid in the camber adjustment ?

Anyone have a pic of the wedge thing ?
 
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I installed the Global West on the 65 the first month it was available. It cost about $200.00 if memory serves me well. The alignment shop had no trouble setting the camber to '0'.
The car has NO understeer. I used Quickor 1,1/8 front 3/4 rear with Traction-Master underrides. It has Konis set dead center and I used v-8 Granada coils and cut them (numerous times) to get the ride height I wanted. The car has more body roll than a lot of young guys want but it has a ride quality that rivals a new car. And not an S-2000 CR!
Going up Paris Mtn. (25 posted limit) here in Greenville you think you're not going that fast but when you look at the odometer, which has been verified by the SCHP, you realize you are going twice the limit. Only problem is the stock p/s gives very little feedback.
If you ause the negative wedge kit with export-brace and monti-carlo bar you can transform your car. For not that much money.
And the wedge on mine was a machined aluminum 15 degree wedge that prevents the upper ball-joint from binding.
Good luck.
 
keep an eye on your upper control arm though if you use the negative wedge system. what happens i that the stress on the upper arm is moved to right behind the ball joint where the arm is the weakest, and the arm tends to break at that point. either reinforce the arm, or replace it on a regular basis.