100% stock motor+cam opinion!!!

MarcoCapone

Member
Aug 6, 2003
44
0
6
I would like to know what are your opinion on swaping the cam as my first motor mod!!!! What is the best cam on a stock motor (I plan to keep it NA for some time (untill I have enough money for a blower))??? Do I have to change the valve spring or anything else???? And how much power it should give me on a 100% stock engine (rwhp)??? And is it a good move to do or I should take the 'normal' way and do gear, exhaust, pulley, induction then after all that cam????


Thank you for your reply!!!
 
  • Sponsors (?)


If you are not touching the heads, go with the VT Stage 1 cams. The Stage 2 cams are desinged to work with ported heads and would not perform as well on stock heads.

You should be able to gain at least 15-20RWHP with the VT Stage 1's.
 
vt stg 1's are your best bet on a unmodified motor. Although if its your only performance mod you wont see as much gains without basic bolt ons to help the cams breathe, but like laserRed said you will see about 15-20rwhp from them. As far as valve springs with stg 1's its not needed. Stock springs will be fine.
 
I'm not sure about the VT camshafts, but I know that with the Crane and Crower modular cams, they are re-grinds and their specific lash caps need to be installed on the valve stems in order to compensate for the reduced base circle. When camshafts are reground by means of a non-welding regrind, the nose radius is ground to give more durationl, the heel of the cam is also ground to reduce the base circle giving more effective lift, and sometimes the clearance ramps are ground a little as well.

When the base circle is reduced, it changes the preload of the hydraulic adjusters(lifters) and will throw off the cam/rocker and lifter/valve stem lash height.

Maybe someone from VT or someone that knows VT can say whether or not VT uses re-grinds and whether or not a specific lash cap is needed with their cams if nothing else is done to a stock head.
 
The reason they dont get rid of the Stage 1 I imagine is because you have to tune them, need 3.73+ gears and if you have an auto you need a stall convertor. Some people that buy this stuff might not be able to afford all this stuff at once. My brother is looking into putting the Stage 1 in for these exact reasons.
 
The reason they dont get rid of the Stage 1 I imagine is because you have to tune them, need 3.73+ gears and if you have an auto you need a stall convertor. Some people that buy this stuff might not be able to afford all this stuff at once. My brother is looking into putting the Stage 1 in for these exact reasons.

Amen to that!! I have stage 1's They're great, plus stage 2's don't make their full power till above 62000 rpm or so. On a stock engine that would kill the internals
 
might as well go vt II's, they have made more power time after time with stock headed 2v's. i dont even know why they bother making the stage 1's anymore

That is not accurate. The Stage 2 VT cams will likely not make as much power on a stock headed 4.6 2V as the Stage 1's. The Stage 1's are purposely ground for the flow/velocity characteristics of a stock head, and consequently the Stage 2 camshafts are purposely ground for the flow/velocity characteristics of a ported head. Even VT themselves have mentioned this before on other forums.

Even though I would always degree every cam I installed, some people do not have the know how and/or tools to properly degree a cam. The Stage 1 VT cams can be installed without breaking out the degreeing kit, and they can get away without a tune or just some minor adjustments to the tune. This makes the Stage 1's ideal for some people.
 
Does VT stage 1 have rough Idle???? Would they changed my exhaust sound??? And how long does it take to install them?? And if I do plenum+ 75 mm TB at the same time , what are the gain I should see (from cam+plenum+tb)???And if i do stage 1 now and upgrade to ported head in the future what is the power diff between ported head with stg 1 cam and ported head with stg 2 cam?????



***I know I ask many question, but I want to be informed before I do something...***


Thank!

BTW steveb24 do you know how much power you have rwp/rwtq... because after those mods ill almost be like you...
 
I have Comp 262's in my car...otherwise it is stock internally. Gave me about a 25HP bump after a tune. I feel a tune is a must to get the best potential from any cam.

The VT stage 1's probably have the same idle as mine. Not rough but noticeable.
 
That is not accurate. The Stage 2 VT cams will likely not make as much power on a stock headed 4.6 2V as the Stage 1's. The Stage 1's are purposely ground for the flow/velocity characteristics of a stock head, and consequently the Stage 2 camshafts are purposely ground for the flow/velocity characteristics of a ported head. Even VT themselves have mentioned this before on other forums.

Even though I would always degree every cam I installed, some people do not have the know how and/or tools to properly degree a cam. The Stage 1 VT cams can be installed without breaking out the degreeing kit, and they can get away without a tune or just some minor adjustments to the tune. This makes the Stage 1's ideal for some people.
how many cars have you seen with both? before you answer that question, i posted from my first hand experience not bs speculation
 
How much more power could be made from the stg 2's on a ported head vs a non ported head? Cause if its a drastic improvment and you dont plan on porting your heads maybe 2's wouldnt be your best bet. Esp. since more things are needed to accompany them. I already got my 4.10's etc etc. So i am going with either stg 2 blower cams or n/a cams once i decide whether or not i want to put a s/c on my car.
 
That is not accurate. The Stage 2 VT cams will likely not make as much power on a stock headed 4.6 2V as the Stage 1's. The Stage 1's are purposely ground for the flow/velocity characteristics of a stock head, and consequently the Stage 2 camshafts are purposely ground for the flow/velocity characteristics of a ported head. Even VT themselves have mentioned this before on other forums.

Even though I would always degree every cam I installed, some people do not have the know how and/or tools to properly degree a cam. The Stage 1 VT cams can be installed without breaking out the degreeing kit, and they can get away without a tune or just some minor adjustments to the tune. This makes the Stage 1's ideal for some people.

Not flaming but I rarely if ever have seen VT Stage 1's hit the magical 300 mark w stock heads..I put down 303/318 w the 2's