Check my sig.
11.44 @ 118 66 Coupe
Just ran my car this past weekend and for the first time I uncorked the exhaust which help me to pick up another .10th.
My 66 Coupe is driven on the street on a regular basis and is reliable as the day is long. I'll give you some info on my build in a minute but first here are a few comments I have, some based on experience, some on speculation. There are ways to go fast for cheap (I have NOT figured them out) but as 2nd Mustang and Mustang Dave stated below, speed does cost money. I know I can get a few more .10's out of my combo (stall - gears) but it will cost reliability and will probably force me into a bigger tire which would force me into a tub job.
1. 12's on a well built 302 with the right gears I think is very realistic
2. moderatley built 347 should not have
any problems with 12's considering the weight of your car.
3. Your starting with a six which is not such a bad thing if your just going to use it to drag (i.e light springs in the front) but a front
suspension change would be required if your going to drive it on the street after the V8 conversion
4. depending on the build (and your luck) you may be able to get by with less than a 9" rear end, but when you start getting into 300+ rear wheel HP your going to eventually frag it, especially launching on slicks and hooking up
5. If you go auto, a C-4 will demand some attention if you want it to last
6. Gears - depending on your tire size and how hig you can rev. For me running 26X9.0X15 Hoosier slicks with my stroker e/w an XE274R that only revs to 6200RPM, I am perfect with 3:70's
Lastly the money thing - When I got my motor completed I though the major expenses were done (wake up time)
headers, radiator, fan, MSD box, MSD distributor, fuel pump to feed it, regulator, 9" rear end, new drive shaft, heavy duty leafs, and on and on and on......
Here is my build for reference to answer what I think is a good head cam combo that can run on the street and get respect at the track. I think 65-66 coupes are the best sleeper cars on the street and at the track. I was in your shoes with a stripped coupe just a few years ago and it all takes time. There are a whole lot of guys on here that know a whole bunch so ask questions. I know I did and I could not have done it with out the help.
• Lunati Iron Crank, Lunati street / race rods
• KB hypereutectic flat domes w/ 6.5cc reliefs
• Clevite bearings
• All ARP hardware
• BHJ billet crank damper
• Pioneer flexplate
• Probe girdle
• Canton 7 qt pan
• Comp cams aluminum roller rockers 1.6:1
• Holley laser shot 9mm plug wires
• Comp cam Xtreme Energy 35-518-8 hydraulic roller Cam Duration @.050 224 – 232, valve lift .555 - .565, lobe separation angle 112 degrees
• AFR 185 heads ported and polished by Joe Mondella (documented flow charts)
• MSD Pro billet distributor
• Hooker super comp ceramic coated long tubes 1 5/8” primary, 3” collectors
• Weiland aluminum water pump
• Port Matched Victor JR Single Plane intake manifold (Plenum opened up big time)
• Elgin high volume pump and timing set
• Holley blue fuel pump w/ regulator
• Mighty Demon 650 carb (flows 753CFM wet)
• MSD 6AL, blaster 2 coil
• Currie 9” w/ 3:70 Detroit true trac
• TCP
Upper control arms w/ 620lbs Mustangs Plus 1” coils
• Sway Bars (front removed)
• TCP Sub-frame connectors
• TCP Solid Motor mounts
• 2500 Stall, C-4 massaged tranny
• Street Wheels – Vintage Wheel Works 16X8 Vintage 50’s w 245/50/16 & 225/50/16 Comp T/A
• Strip wheels Drag light w/ Hoosier 26X9.0X15
• 10.8:1 COMPRESSION