honestly to keep up with Porsches you will need to increase your power and lower your weight. strip the interior to just a drivers seat and a cage. relocate the battery to the trunk. also you would want a Torsen type differential with a diff cooler. you would definately need to switch out to an aluminum block. for brakes, you will need something like a 6 piston front 4 piston rear kit. you would also need full race tyres, ie slicks.
13" Rear brake upgrade. Did I just imagine this kit?
- Thread starter Rickey_Bobby
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I already have several mods that allow me to run neck and neck w/ porsches in my class and am not allowed to run R compound tires. If I could, I wouldn't be having braking issues. I am just looking for info on brakes only. Thanks.
If you want to go in deeper and come out harder i'd think you would need to upgrade your brakes. I have the Cobra/Bullits all around and they do a decent job stopping me on regular driving but on a road course i would atleast upgrade to the 00Cobra R 4 piston fronts.
I want to get the bias fixed before I add even more stopping power to the front.
Do the 4 piston calipers retain the same 13" cobra rotor?
If so, Where can I get these Calipers?
Do the 4 piston calipers retain the same 13" cobra rotor?
If so, Where can I get these Calipers?
yes they are the same 13"...
http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/index.php?sessId=4FE870A37238209E0EC836067AAB8E56&cPath=6
http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/index.php?sessId=4FE870A37238209E0EC836067AAB8E56&cPath=6
wonder if they are worth the $700....
And I would have to get them powdercoated red to match the rear, gay problem I know... But shiney silver front rotors and red rears would look bad.
And I would have to get them powdercoated red to match the rear, gay problem I know... But shiney silver front rotors and red rears would look bad.
Well you're not going to get far, you can overdue your brakes to hell and back and you still won't get any closer to better stopping power.
compare: a standard porsche carerra has a 40/60 distro, yours is more of a 60/40 (56/44 is stock) since you got extra weight in the front ie: turbo etc.
"What don't you get? The braking capabilities in a mustang are on par
for racing set-ups, the braking force is applied to almost 85% to the
front of the car ALREADY due to overweight in the front , the only thing
you can do upgrade the front brakes to something of a 4 or 6 piston and
get good street race/race pads. If you want to improve braking beyond
that you have to reduce weight on the front end."
I really just wanted to stay on topic but....
First off, as originally stated, I have the FRONTS locking.... I have no problem stopping the front wheels even at 150mph with VERY sticky tires and ground affects (The flat full length pan that runs the length of the car under the chassis to induce a vaccuum between the car and the road at speeds over ~ 100mph).
My car is currently 52/48 weight distribution as of the last time I had it corner weighted. My entire turbo setup added 43.5 lbs to the front of my car. Over 105lbs was removed from the front of my car. Yet most everyone here is telling me that my car is not set up properly to brake fast....
I understang braking dynamics, I understand a porsche has an advantage over a STOCK mustang when it comes to both acceleration and braking.
But please, stick relativly close to questions rather than filling a whole thread with comments based on assumptions. I have stated time and again that my car is NOT anywhere near stock...
Again, anyone with a clue on the plumbing layout for the biasing valve so I can REDUCE front braking pressure without affecting the ABS?
for racing set-ups, the braking force is applied to almost 85% to the
front of the car ALREADY due to overweight in the front , the only thing
you can do upgrade the front brakes to something of a 4 or 6 piston and
get good street race/race pads. If you want to improve braking beyond
that you have to reduce weight on the front end."
I really just wanted to stay on topic but....
First off, as originally stated, I have the FRONTS locking.... I have no problem stopping the front wheels even at 150mph with VERY sticky tires and ground affects (The flat full length pan that runs the length of the car under the chassis to induce a vaccuum between the car and the road at speeds over ~ 100mph).
My car is currently 52/48 weight distribution as of the last time I had it corner weighted. My entire turbo setup added 43.5 lbs to the front of my car. Over 105lbs was removed from the front of my car. Yet most everyone here is telling me that my car is not set up properly to brake fast....
I understang braking dynamics, I understand a porsche has an advantage over a STOCK mustang when it comes to both acceleration and braking.
But please, stick relativly close to questions rather than filling a whole thread with comments based on assumptions. I have stated time and again that my car is NOT anywhere near stock...
Again, anyone with a clue on the plumbing layout for the biasing valve so I can REDUCE front braking pressure without affecting the ABS?
LaserRed01GT
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With the variable proportioning valves you can completely control the front bias. You can even go so far as to hook up a brake pressure gauge and fine tune the front right and front left independantly if this is going to be a serious road race car. On my 99 GT, I was getting somewhere 1300 PSI on the fronts, then I installed a few residual in-line pressure valves between the ABS and calipers and I reduced the fronts to around 1000 PSI and it helped overcome the stock valve split point big time.
See the thing is on the stock proportioning valve within the ABS, when the brake pedal is applied, brake fluid pressure passes through the proportioning valve within the ABS to the rear brake system until the valve split point is reached. Above the valve split point, the proportioning valve begins to reduce the hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes. With the way these nose dive under hard braking this is not good.
There are all kinds of things you can do to make this thing brake amazing. Stainless braded brake lines up front, torque arm(dramatically reduces nose dive), autox specific front coil-overs, better calipers, bigger slotted rotors, better master cylinder, etc., etc., the list goes on and on. I've ridden and even built some 99-04 Mustangs that handle and brake amazingly. Like everythings else, it just takes money and labor.
Have you considered ditching the ABS altogether?
Try estimating cg, the placement of your turbo/hardware, and how it still affects braking.
Well the main question you asked 'is there a 13 rear brake kit', which has been answered so this thread should be closed. Further more if you wish to bs your way to find out how to brake more by 'upgrading the plumbing' and not following real answers then stop asking us. Ricky we know you're an smart guy when it comes to things and others, well, you try to murder the obvious.
One thing you will have to learn is to state your supporting modifiactions so every one can help you properly.
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