130 amp 6g alternator
- Thread starter 5.0tbirdguy
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and they fit better because they are smaller.-
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Wiring it up is easier then the 3G. Just make sure you get the plug/connector thing that goes with the alternator. If you are familiar with the stock alternator wiring there are 2 plugs that go into it.
One plug has 2 black/orange wires + a thin white/black one.
The other plug has 3 wires as well, the white/black one which just goes from the one plug to the other, plus a yellow wire and a green wire.
So now u have your old alternator out snip the 2 clips off those wires that I mentioned above as close to the plug as you can. Remove the white/black wire all together it is not needed with the 6G. Put a marette on the 2 orange/black wires tape that up and tuck it away.
DONT CONNECT, I repeat DONT CONNECT those two black/orange wires to the alternator, they are barely big enough to handle the power the stock charging system puts out. when I clipped mine off the plastic around those 2 wires close to the clip was beginning to melt telling me that if I left like that much longer smokey the bear would have been coming to pay my car a visit. a 4ga cable is good for up to 130amps i belive which is MORE then adaquate for handling the power of a 130A alternator at full load.
Now you should have the clip that comes with the alternator, wire the yellow and green wires to the end of this, and plug it into the alternator. so all you have connected to the alternator now is your 4ga cable on the alternator post to the battery and the 2 wires connected to the clip.
heres some pics. any more questions just ask, sorry I took so long to get these pics and this write up posted.
One plug has 2 black/orange wires + a thin white/black one.
The other plug has 3 wires as well, the white/black one which just goes from the one plug to the other, plus a yellow wire and a green wire.
So now u have your old alternator out snip the 2 clips off those wires that I mentioned above as close to the plug as you can. Remove the white/black wire all together it is not needed with the 6G. Put a marette on the 2 orange/black wires tape that up and tuck it away.
DONT CONNECT, I repeat DONT CONNECT those two black/orange wires to the alternator, they are barely big enough to handle the power the stock charging system puts out. when I clipped mine off the plastic around those 2 wires close to the clip was beginning to melt telling me that if I left like that much longer smokey the bear would have been coming to pay my car a visit. a 4ga cable is good for up to 130amps i belive which is MORE then adaquate for handling the power of a 130A alternator at full load.
Now you should have the clip that comes with the alternator, wire the yellow and green wires to the end of this, and plug it into the alternator. so all you have connected to the alternator now is your 4ga cable on the alternator post to the battery and the 2 wires connected to the clip.
heres some pics. any more questions just ask, sorry I took so long to get these pics and this write up posted.
THC420 said:
Hmmm...ok,so the original power wires,(spade connector),are eliminated,as there`s no stator wire to worry about with the 6g.
Now all you need is the 6g voltage regulator plug,(which is available-Pa Performance and the aftermarket have them).
Here`s where I need a little more clarification.
With the new 6g voltage regulator plug,only two of the three wires from the original voltage regulator plug get connected to the new 6g plug,is this correct?
As stated in the above post just the yellow and green wires?
Just need to get this part clear as my original voltage regulator plug has three wires and the replacement 6g vr plug has 3 wires also.
(I think you could just leave the spade connector in place without cutting the wires since it`s not used you can just tape it up).
Any idea if 5.0L overdrive alternator pulleys will fit the 6g?
My car has street underdrive crank and water pump pulleys with a 1-7/8" OD alternator pulley right now with the 75amp alt.
THC420 said:
The wire colours are different in the pic.
You have the 6g blue VR wire connected to the original green wire and the 6g red VR wire connected to the original yellow wire in the pic.
Just need to clarify this so I don`t screw anything up on the install.
What about the 5.0L OD alt pulley fit issue on the 6g?Any answer there?
8950HO said:
your wires on your clip may be different colors then on mine.
I drew a crude picture to show what wires connect to what in case yours are different colors.
dont bother with the OD pulley. You wont need it. My 2 subs I have in my car push 1000W RMS, Electric fan, all the lights on + fogs, heater ect ect ect.. and the voltage gauge on my capacitor never drops below 14 volts.
THC420 said:
Wow...that 6g alternator with the stock alternator pulley must really put out.That`s good to know.
Thanks for the info on the 6g swap
.Damn,even with my OD alt pulley with street UD crank and WP pulleys,the volt guage will still drop when I turn on the headlights and have accessories running at idle speeds with the stock 75amp pos alt.
Regarding the wiring,you could also leave the original 75amp alternator spade connector and 3 wire voltage regulator plug in place and use a couple of quick splice electrical connectors to connect the original yellow and green wires to the new 2 wire 6g voltage regulator plug.
In my case I could use my pos 75amp alternator as an emergency back up just in case as all the original connectors are still in place.
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In my case I could use my pos 75amp alternator as an emergency back up just in case as all the original connectors are still in place.
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Maintaining reverse-compatibility is a good idea. I would solder those connections (making a Y-connection) rather than using quick taps......8950HO said:Regarding the wiring,you could also leave the original 75amp alternator spade connector and 3 wire voltage regulator plug in place and use a couple of quick splice electrical connectors to connect the original yellow and green wires to the new 2 wire 6g voltage regulator plug.
In my case I could use my pos 75amp alternator as an emergency back up just in case as all the original connectors are still in place.
89, yeah, not only can the connections have some resistance in them, but they can work loose. The scotchlock taps are a little better than the ones at the parts store IMHO, but they can come apart.
THC420's advice above will work a lot better IMHO, if you dont want to solder. I would heat shrink all alternator connections. For guys ordering parts for a conversion, dont forget to buy some large heat shrink for the power cable connections. I got some 3M stuff that worked and looked very nice (larger diameter than most parts stores carry).
Good luck.
THC420's advice above will work a lot better IMHO, if you dont want to solder. I would heat shrink all alternator connections. For guys ordering parts for a conversion, dont forget to buy some large heat shrink for the power cable connections. I got some 3M stuff that worked and looked very nice (larger diameter than most parts stores carry).
Good luck.
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