134A conversion kit

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by 84blkstang, Jun 28, 2005.


  1. 84blkstang

    84blkstang New Member

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    Since i dont have 700 bones lying around could i get all the AC stuff off a 4cyl or
    v-8 car and make them fit mine just to get me by for the summer?
     
    #21
  2. 5spd GT

    5spd GT "the 5.0 owns all" Founding Member

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    Also...this maybe a "dumb question" but you get a 8 rib belt right (for the 8 rib compressor)...so how does that fit right on the other pulleys (alternator/powersteering). I may have read it wrong.???
     
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  3. PuterAmI

    PuterAmI New Member

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    84blkstang - 4cyl equipment is different. If you have a club or racers that you know close by, see if anyone has the equipment that they took off that was still good. I have a bunch of equipment that people have given to me free.

    5sp GT - I do not know. Call Glen.
     
    #23
  4. 84blkstang

    84blkstang New Member

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    mmm there are not really any clubs and the racetrack isnt local, is there anything that would work, i found a v-8 Condensor-the thing that is in front of the radiator, and three lines, two from the compressor and one from the firewall i also found a piece that goes in the heatercore box also. I think all i lack is one line that comes from the firewall to the condensor?.
     
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  5. PuterAmI

    PuterAmI New Member

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    There are only three lines. You appear to have listed one line twice in what you said above. The high side goes from the compressor to the condenser. The liquid line goes from the condenser to the evaporator. The suction line goes from the accumulator to the compressor.

    I lined out the complete system and its components on the website I listed above. See "Introduction to the A/C System".
     
    #25
  6. BerryG

    BerryG New Member

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    My 134a conversion was blowing 40 degrees on the central vent @ 85F air outside temp at an idle in the garage today.
    Wonder how long it will last.
     
    #26
  7. 5spd GT

    5spd GT "the 5.0 owns all" Founding Member

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    Another quick question (didn't pay attention to it) but are new o-ring/gaskets included in this kit? Do you need them for the R134a conversion? I wouldn't want a leak/blow-by of the "gas"...
     
    #27
  8. DW5.0L

    DW5.0L Member

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    I have the article on the Hose Wizard kit. Been thinking about it for ny rebuild. Need to check the prices on the items in the kit to see how they compare to AutoParts store pricing. But it seems like a quality kit and the cooler results vs R12 are a plus. A/C is just expensive I guess. But its hard not to have it if you live on Florida or another hot climate.
     
    #28
  9. 5spd GT

    5spd GT "the 5.0 owns all" Founding Member

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    So for those who have the kit...what kind of cons might it present. Clearance with certain e-fans, etc?
     
    #29
  10. my$100project

    my$100project New Member

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    The way I understand it is there are 3 different types of conversions. and I may have them mixed up. I think this is how it goes. Type 1-the first- A complete kit, with evaporator, condensor, compressor, rcvr/drier or accumulator (whichever applies), orifice tube, and a new compressor. Type II-the next introduced. New accumulator or rcvr/drier, orifice tube and o-rings. Type III- The most recent and probably the most commonly used. R134A in a can along with a sticker and R134 connectiion adaptors which must remain on the vehicle for legal purposes (EPA requires labeling the vehicle in a noticeable area, because refrigerant can be recycled in the recovery machine and then resold to the customer or reused later on.) The reason it has been labeled the "Death kit" is because a lot of people just buy the adaptors with absolutely no knowledge of refrigerants throw it in the lines and cause damage. I tend to live by the medaphore "better to measure twice and cut once, than to measure once and cut twice" However, I feel if done properly any type of conversion will work. Swapping to all new parts is just a sales pitch. What one must understand is refrigerant boils at somewhere around -22 degrees fahrenheight. Moisture in the system both changes the boiling point and can cause severe damage to the compressor. I'm sure the companies that rebuild air compressors love the diy's who don't take the proper steps. Personally, if all original parts where still intact or available I would go that route. Just take a few precautionary measures and it will be pain free and save you a whole bunch of money. Here's what I would do.
    1. Replace all seals, while the system is open go ahead and replace orifice tube (if equipped)
    2. Drain all oil, etc.
    3.A MUST TO PREVENT the "DEATH KIT" --find your local shade-tree mechanic or someone you know who will cut you a good deal. Dealerships, etc will want to sell the R134a with the "ac test". Have the system vacuumed down and leak tested. If the system will hold a vacuum you just killed two birds with one stone. You have found out that your system is not leaking (saving you money from numerous recharges), and probably the most important and biggest mistake that people make is that this vacuum removes the moisture from the system which is essential to both-proper operation of parts and good cooling.
    4.ONLY AFTER the system is under a vacuum and holds that vacuum go ahead and add 80-85% of recommended free-on. you may want to note this doesn't count oil. If recommened is 40 oz. you need about 32 ounces of r134a. Most of the cans of R134a is mixed with oil for ease of installation. A 12 oz can of R134a oil and refrigerant is about 8 ounces of refrigerant and 4 ounces of oil. This would require not 2 1/2 cans but more along the lines of 4 cans to make 32 ounces of refrigerant. (double check this number and the amount of oil to add when buying the refrigerant, I'd hate to tell someone to overcharge their system)
    5.Put label in clear to read area and enjoy your air and take the $400 you just saved and have a :cheers:
     
    #30
  11. stangbear427

    stangbear427 Active Member

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    Yeah, you read it wrong. the six rib belt runs on the middle six ribs of the eight rib pulley. No new belt.
     
    #31
  12. DW5.0L

    DW5.0L Member

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    Kit contents

    HoseWizardR134a retrofit kit comes with everything needed to convert your stock A/C system. including a new condenser, Sanden compressor, compressor mounting brackets, serpentine belt, high pressure cutout switch, and all hoses and fittings. They add a bit of length to the accumulator hose for aftermarket intake clearance.

    We keep the stock evaporator and cycling pressure switch. Seems like a great A/C upgrade. A group buy would be a good idea.
     
    #32
  13. nightrider50

    nightrider50 Member

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    I know its been a while since this thread was alive, but why start a new one on the exact same topic.

    My car had factory AC but i did the delete kit 5-6 years ago. Now i regret not having AC but don't remember anything about when the AC was in the car, so here we are.

    Picked up this kit from LRS and so far so good. have everything mounted in there and lines hooked up. Just need some help with the electrical part of it.

    First question, can anyone help out with the connection to the electrical on the new compressor? I have no clue where these wires originally came from.

    Second, the picture below, what (if anything) connects to this and where does it come from? Should be somewhere along the passenger side fender.
     

    Attached Files:

    #33
  14. Tanus

    Tanus New Member

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    subscribed, Im in the same boat as you, car came with AC removed, trying to get it all back together
     
    #34
  15. txstang347

    txstang347 Member

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    I'm just starting to do research on relpacing all the old R12 stuff, read your post, then ran across this pictures (link below):
    Replacement Air Conditioning 1990 Ford Mustangs Clutch Wires Photo

    "The wiring required to retrofit the R134a system is minimal. It's basically installing an EPA-approved, high-pressure cutout switch (included with the kit) and connecting the Sanden compressor clutch wire. The high-pressure switch is installed into the liquid line and then tapped into the stock pressure switch. You can wire it two ways: either in place of the factory switch or in series with it. If you wire it in place of the stock switch, the system will blow a few degrees cooler, but there is a slight chance of freezing the evaporator, which hasn't happened on our installation. The switch, while not in the way here, might be close on supercharged applications. Hose Wizard now rotates the switch before crimping the hose on these kits."

    Connecting the compressor wiring is even simpler than the pressure-switch wiring. Cut the factory A/C clutch plug off the factory harness. Connect the black-with-white-stripe wire to the red Sanden clutch wire using a butt-splice connector or soldering the connection. The remaining solid-black wire is a ground circuit for the factory clutch and is not needed-the Sanden clutch is case grounded-so just tape it off.
     
    #35
  16. txstang347

    txstang347 Member

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    Just realized that post was 3 months old. Oh well, maybe it will help someone else!
     
    #36
  17. Shakerhood

    Shakerhood Well-Known Member

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    I know this is an Ancient Thread but I have been thinking about picking up this kit. Im curious on the best method for hooking up to the Electric Fan, from the pressure switch or from the Compressor?
     
    #37
  18. jrichker

    jrichker StangNet's favorite TOOL SN Certified Technician Founding Member

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    Tap into the A/C compressor wiring harness . One wire is ground and the other is power for the compressor clutch coil.
     
    #38
  19. Shakerhood

    Shakerhood Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for that info, I probably didn't explain my thought process well enough though. If I tap into the compressor the E-Fan would run constantly, if running down the highway airflow should be sufficient enough to not need the E-Fan, so I was trying to figure a way to wire it as such.
     
    #39

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