BlackVert
15 Year Member
so he pulled out at 4000 rpm? there is the problem right there. if he takes it up to 5500 or so, the horsepower numbers will be alot higher
190wrhp with these mods????
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Hey G, I think I must have missed that last sentence where it said it was tuned. Well since the pull was aborted kind of early, there was a decent amt of horses left on the table (I don't think 100 horses but some horses anyway)since he didn't "full pull". How does the car feel before and after the mods. Seat of the pants should be a big indicator. Does your car vibrate at idle? When you rev? A specific RPM? Clutch engaged disengaged? Rule out the driveshaft by disconnecting it and going through the rpm's. What kind of balancer are you using? A new stock balancer can still spin on you and cause vibrations. Make sure your motor is ok (compression test, leakdown test).
blksn955.o
Founding Member
If the vibration was bad enough at 4k for a dyno operator to stop the pull...look at replacing the HB or check your drivshaft.
14.7 A/F is generally not were people on the tuning forums have seen the best power production. The general range people seem to notice a sweet spot is in the 12.8-13.2 range N/A.
If it put down 190rwhp at 4k rpm and the pull was stopped. I would sort out the reason the pull was stopped before I was worried about 190rwhp at 4k...that is not too bad.
14.7 A/F is generally not were people on the tuning forums have seen the best power production. The general range people seem to notice a sweet spot is in the 12.8-13.2 range N/A.
If it put down 190rwhp at 4k rpm and the pull was stopped. I would sort out the reason the pull was stopped before I was worried about 190rwhp at 4k...that is not too bad.
+1... i would definitely check the harmonc balancer... when i pulled mine a few weeks ago it wasnt BAD, but it wouldve definitely needed to be replaced so its what i did. as like everyone else says, thats why u had such low HP and the fact that a person who was operating the dyno couldnt figure out why such low HP(because he didnt travel the RPMs higher) is beyond me
When I mean A/F is on its 14.7.....not all the time but the amounts are were they spose to be tuned with a chip, The gauge is off so The fuel pressure is about 40 and the guy said he set it to were it needed to be with his fuel gauge. I bought the balancer new about 5 monthes ago and had it balanced with the rotating assembly within 5 grams. But when the car idles it is kinda a lil ruff and you can feel a little vibration at the idle and when the car is reved a little. And there is a slight vib. when cruizin but I think that is the drive shaft maybe unbalanced? it is an auto shaft. This guy is the only dyno around these parts and I don't think he is the best.... But I will post the dyno sheet tonight, I also found out today that he only brought it up to 4000rpm ( because of vib.) when on the dyno so that would add a lil more power right? its spose to be 5500. but the power stops at 191whp and is a steady line acrost the sheet, with no slop in the charts.
Hold the phone, crisis averted. If he let out at 4000rpms, that's your problem right there. 190rwhp is about dead on for 4000 rpms.
Kurt
Ya I prob. wouldn't have wasted everyones time if I knew he stopped the dyno pull at 4000, but i just found out yesterday morning. so I can probibly fix the vib. and convince him to give me a free pull for his **** up. But I still need your guys help for the vibration problem. For the balancer I bought it new for about $30 shipped for a stock replacement, So I will take a look tomorrow at it. But I have tested 4 cylinders and need to test the other 4 for compression but the first ones were all at 120. and the intake has been smoked tested for leaks and nothing there. But I have a buddy with an aluminum drive shaft who is gunna let me test it out tomorrow so I will keep ya posted. But any other comments let me hear um, you are right I am still learning about fuel injection tuning. Thanks!
No, I'm afraid that's still low.
191rwhp @ 4000rpm = 251rwtq
He should be making over 300rwtq.
I took a quick look at a few examples from my files 
While I did not have combos using gt40 heads AND a TFS1 cam
I did look at three GT40p head based combos
While it is true these results are somewhat above average for this
type of combo ... we can still see a pattern which can be used
to make a ballpark comparison with the car in question here
Common street car intakes with two being OEM cobra and one Typhoon
Cam used were Comp XE270HR, AFM B25, and e-cam
All pulls were Dynojet with SAE calibration
Peak rwhp range was 295-297
Peak rwtq range was 320-326
190 rwhp was obtained in a range of 3200-3300 rpm
4K rpm yielded a rwhp range of 242-249
Just a little hard data to paint a bigger picture
Grady
While I did not have combos using gt40 heads AND a TFS1 cam
I did look at three GT40p head based combos
While it is true these results are somewhat above average for this
type of combo ... we can still see a pattern which can be used
to make a ballpark comparison with the car in question here
Common street car intakes with two being OEM cobra and one Typhoon
Cam used were Comp XE270HR, AFM B25, and e-cam
All pulls were Dynojet with SAE calibration
Peak rwhp range was 295-297
Peak rwtq range was 320-326
190 rwhp was obtained in a range of 3200-3300 rpm
4K rpm yielded a rwhp range of 242-249
Just a little hard data to paint a bigger picture
Grady
The engine was internally balanced. The RWTQ at 4000 is 255. Not sure of the clutch balance but did not vibrate when it was on my other car and was only used for about 2000 miles with the same flywheel. Just got done pressure testing the cylinders and the first one is about 100 and the rest are 120, This was a dry test with the TB closed. I Checked the torque on the heads and also the lifters and everything seemed fine. What is the next step from there? Also wondering if this could be a possible vibration maker? and what are the long term problems problems if one cylinder has a lower compression then the others? The Rings are new moly rings and installed the right way so I dont think it's them (no blue smoke) and there is no mix of oil and coolent in eather locations, so not the head gasket? So my guess would be one of the valves?
Well, I wouldn't worry about the compression yet. I would work on the vibration first. It could be anything. Is the driveshaft new?
Kurt
Kurt
rj95svt
Member
82 up 5.0's are externally balanced with 50oz. counterbalance. 81 and earlier engines had 28 oz. counterbalance. If you use a early crank you must use a early balancer and flywheel with the 28oz balance. If your engine is internally balanced you will need 0 balance flywheel and harmonic balancer meaning they will not have any counterweight. As far as I know that means you will have to use a aftermarket balancer and flywheel.
The whole rotation assembly was balanced with the balancer and flywheel included. But is about 20psi lower in one cylinder bad? should I take the head off and take a look or is that not a big deal. the driveshaft is from an auto car and now I have a five speed they do look different, the 5 speed has a damper on the end and this one does not. could the bad compression be making a vib? I am going to try out the shaft tonight of my buddies its a aluminum one so we will see.
Ok so I swapped over the drive shaft tonight and I am gunna take it for a spin tomorrow it was late when I got it done and I don't have a inspection sticker so I got to wait til tomorrow. But I was also thinking that I should have mentioned that I have solid motor mounts......Don't know if that would make a little rattle on the car or not. But also still wondering about the cylinder pressure one cylinder is 15-20 psi differnce is that bad?
Ok well I solved the vibration going down the road, it was a combo of, going bad inner tie rod ends and a new aluminum drive shaft. But even now when I feed it the gas, it still seems like its missing a left nut. it barly brakes traction from a 5mph roll I am still wondering about the compression also, is 120 a normal psi for cylinders? and is 100 to low? The rockers are on a pedistol mount and dont need ajusting, they just tighten down on the gt40's I made sure they were good and also made sure the heads were torqued down to specs.
This is how it is ONLY when everything is new and being assembled at the
Ford factory
If your heads or block or both have been cut
If your head gasket is thicker or thinner
and so forth
That is why different length pr's and shims are used by SOME who run
OEM iron ped heads
You GOTTA check that stuff :Word:
Grady
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