Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by rusty428cj, Dec 16, 2010.
Brian finished welding the subframe connectors
Brian wanted to keep the original fender aprons so he would have something to line up the new firewall and cowl. Most of the rust was on the bottom and the very top edge. He replaced the bottom and made a few small patches on the right side but still has one small area outlined in black to repair.
Brian test fit the firewall. Marked where the holes where than removed it to grind down that area to bare metal. He also used sheetmetal screws to get a good tight fit before welding.
I noticed in other pics the trans/driveshaft tunnel was removed. Are you just using it now for fitment?
Also, using sheet metal screws is a real good idea. Not only do they pull things together tightly, when you pull them out and rosette weld the panel to the frame it ensures good penetration.
We have been working on another project but Brian had a little time this afternoon and started patching the rear floor.
It's all comining together really nice!
What will it have for a powertrain?
She had the stock 6 cyl rebuilt with Clifford headers before we started on it.
Be a good candidate for a 5 bolt V8 axle and suspension then.
Did the engine get one of the clifford exhaust port divider plates?
Brian has the floor pan installed in the passenger side
Brian starting rebuilding the drivers side
After this point, can you share what you do to the metal to prevent rust before painting? I see slight surface rust on the new patch - do you sand it down completely, wipe off with wax & degreaser, and then epoxy prime?
Yes it is so humid here in Florida right now there is surface rust the next day
Brian has the floor pan in. He still has to remove the screws and finish welding
I'm a new member here who just brought his high school sweetheart home after rusting for 25 years. Reading this post made me realize that I can resurrect my car. Great job and thank you for giving me the realization that anything can be done!
This is about the worst rust-damaged restoration I can ever remember seeing. How many hours of metal work does it take to repair?
Anything is possible with enough time and money! I got lots of time, but its that whole money part i dont have figured out yet
I have found that the sheet metal parts for these cars are downright cheap, its the install that can cost you if you cant DIY.
The floor and the area on the drivers side that Brian repaired is now black epoxy.
Talk about a new lease on life... Ive said it before, you guys do outstanding work thanks for sharing
We have a couple of other projects we need to work on but Brian wanted to finish the trunk area before we stopped.
Brian started by marking the outline of the frame rail on the back side than drilled his holes for the plug welds
Started plug welding but still has the sheet metal screws that will come out and holes welded.
Finished welding, grinding and sanding
Sprayed SPI epoxy to keep it from rusting