1969 351W Block

[dbdragracing]

I just found a 1969 351W block out of a Fairlane. Is this block ok to build a 408W with to put in my Mustang? Should I look for a different block? Thanks.

 

[Hickfied]

that is THE block you want to use, strongest of them all.

 

[old_blue]

nope, it sucks, I will take that worthless paperweight off your hands .....























great block for stroker application.

 

[dbdragracing]

Well I guess I'll go ahead and buy this block....thanks for the help!

 

[86bluecobra]

when you buy a stroker kit make sure you let them know it is a 69 block since the deck hieght is different.

 

[vristang]

when you buy a stroker kit make sure you let them know it is a 69 block since the deck hieght is different.

Could be important!!!


The only other problem with the older blocks is when trying to run roller cams/lifters.
The best option is to use the tie bar aftermarket lifters.
The least attractive option would be a reduced base circle cam, and 302 roller lifters.

jason

 

[Hickfied]

I don't think it would matter that the deck height is .02 lower... Unless the stroker kit is designed to put the piston .03 out of the hole on a 9.5 deck....

 

[vristang]

I don't think it would matter that the deck height is .02 lower... Unless the stroker kit is designed to put the piston .03 out of the hole on a 9.5 deck....

On my 9.5 deck block, my stoker kit sits .005 below the deck, without any surfacing to the block.

I would be a little too far out of the hole on an older block.


jason

 

[dbdragracing]

I've been talking to the guy about this block and he says it is stock. Here are the numbers on the block:

numbers on the side.. c90e-6015-b 8L28 and in the valley 351 WFA


Here are the pictures he sent me (not sure if you can tell anything by them):

Thanks for all the help!

 

[Modular2v]

thicker main webbing, higher nickel content make it stronger than late model blocks. . . they are approximately 10% stronger

 

[Vipersix]

The only other problem with the older blocks is when trying to run roller cams/lifters.
The best option is to use the tie bar aftermarket lifters.
The least attractive option would be a reduced base circle cam, and 302 roller lifters.

jason

Or you could always simply drill and tap your own holes for a retaining tray (spider tray) and use roller lifters as I have done.

I would also highly recommend that you fill the block if you plan on boring it out more than .030" over. It pays dividends in the end.

 

[dbdragracing]

What do you mean by "fill the block"? Thanks.

 

[Modular2v]

i have a 69 block sitting on a stand right now with holes tapped for the spider if anyone is interested lol

 

[vristang]

Or you could always simply drill and tap your own holes for a retaining tray (spider tray) and use roller lifters as I have done
.

Yeah, I did the same thing on my current setup.

I am finding through research though that this is not the recommended way of getting rollers in place.
Using a standard base circle 302HO roller cam will push the lifters too far out of the lifter bores. The lifters will get so high that the oil holes will be exposed.
Not good for maintaining oil pressure lol
In order to make the stock 302 roller lifters work in a non-roller 351w block you MUST use a reduced base circle cam.
The reduced base circle grinds are somewhat limited in lobe selection. Therefore you have fewer cam designs to choose from.
Also, I am told that the reduced lobe base will reduce the strength of the cam, and increases the likelyhood of harmful harmonics. I can't speak from experience there.

I won't use the stock lifters on my next build, I will do it right using tie bar lifters.
My main motivation is to increase the cam designs I have at my disposal.




jason

 

[Hickfied]

How much Modular2v?

 

[Vipersix]

Using a standard base circle 302HO roller cam will push the lifters too far out of the lifter bores. The lifters will get so high that the oil holes will be exposed.

Crane makes a set of lifters which are shorter than stock to overcome this fact but I have yet to see any problems with my setup so until I screw something up I'll stick with my regular lifters.

"Filling the block" is an option you may want to think about to stiffen up the cylinder walls even more. The '69 block is very stout, as mentioned before, but with a large bore even this block will begin to get weak in the walls. Filling the block fixes this. Basically you take whatever compound you like the most (ceramics, quasi-steel, etc.) and fill the coolant passages up to the freeze plugs. When it fully hardens your block will act as if there were no water passages at all next to the cylinder walls. Some claim this will increase your operating temperatures but from my experience it actually decreases temperatures due to the increased flow rate.

My block is filled with the same material they make bowling pins out of which makes it lightweight and heat resistant (not to mention very strong!).

Good luck.

 

[dbdragracing]

Can you still drive your filled block on the street or does that make it a track only block? Thanks.

 

[Vipersix]

It's fully streetable. I'd recommend a good aluminum four-core radiator with this type of engine and you'll have no problems.

 

[bluevenom867]

The 69' blocks also have flat main bulkheads,and you can buy 4 bolt main caps for the center 3,witch help control cap walk alot,I bet you could use a girdle on top of that,boy that would be a strong set-up filled to just below the water inlets.Of course by then...you will probably end up with close to $800 in machine work (I dont know what your paying for it) and you could pony-up a little more and get an aftermarket block that will never give you any problems and is compatiable with factroy roller lifters (aka. Dart Sportsman)

 

[Modular2v]

How much Modular2v?

haha whatever shipping is plus 50$ LOL You would spend a fortune on shipping though! The block is freshly bored .030 over and line honed. . . i had the block given to me and really have no use for it (unless the 331 blows )