1984 SVO idle and cutting out problem

Discussion in '2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech' started by quickerstang, Sep 20, 2011.


  1. quickerstang

    quickerstang New Member

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    What up first of all.
    I have a 1984 SVO and cannot figure it out. Here is one of the problems. It will be at idle(high idle) 1200 rpm and the AFR is like 16-17:1, that is ok. It runs fine when it is like that. Then all of a sudden it will drop to 700 rpm and the AFR will go to 21-22:1 that is very lean and it sounds like it has a monster cam(which would be ok if it did). Also it will cut out at like 6000 rpm and take forever to recover. It will spit and sputter for a while and if I let off the gas it will die. When I attempt to restart it it sounds like a car that has a broken timing belt(spins very freely). I will have to wait a minute for it to start.
    Any ideas? I have checked the TPS voltage, VAM voltage and so on. The computer is a "TE". I also tired to run a self test with my scanner with no luck. I even checked the continuity(forgive me if I spelled it wrong) and all the self test wires checked OK?
    Any input would be great, Thanks, Donavan
     
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  2. 65ShelbyClone

    65ShelbyClone Founding Member

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    What does that mean exactly?
     
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  3. quickerstang

    quickerstang New Member

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    KOEO self test, to see any codes but it wont read the codes
     
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  4. 65ShelbyClone

    65ShelbyClone Founding Member

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    Code readers seem to rarely work for pre-OBDII Fords. Fortunately all you need is a jumper wire and a test light to get the codes from a pre-'89 car.

    http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/8464845-post7.html

    It says '86-95 Mustangs, but it applies to '83-95 EEC-IV systems in general.
     
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  5. quickerstang

    quickerstang New Member

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    I am not positive, but I dont think my SVO has a check engine light and the code reader says unable to read data?
     
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  6. 79'293stang

    79'293stang Active Member

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    It sounds like something is seriously out of tune. What is your timing set at? If your timing is way off along with the idle not being set properly the computer can get fairly upset. Mine did the same things when I first put my new engine in before dialing everything in, start at 10* spout out. Also make sure to get some good intercooler hoses on there, I purchased the ones from forced4 and couldnt be happier, you may have some vacuum leaks.
     
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  7. quickerstang

    quickerstang New Member

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    I found that the hose to the valve cover breather under the intercooler has come off. It runs 80% better. I will keep you posted on the other small issues. Thanks guys
     
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  8. 65ShelbyClone

    65ShelbyClone Founding Member

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    That's why I said a test light is needed for pre-'89 cars; they don't have a CEL. The test light takes the CEL's place for getting codes.
     
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  9. Noobz347

    Noobz347 Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor Admin Dude

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    If you're unable to run codes then it's possible that it's becaues you need to run a jumper wire on the connecter going to the trasmission.

    It's the neutral safety switch but I don't remember which pins.

    I'm sure I could find out if you get stuck. Drop me a line if required.
     
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  10. 65ShelbyClone

    65ShelbyClone Founding Member

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    I didn't think the trans had to be in neutral to check codes. It's been so long since I had to, I don't remember. :rolleyes:
     
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  11. quickerstang

    quickerstang New Member

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    I tried to run the test with the clutch in, I dont know if that would make a difference, but I tried it anyway.
     
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