1984 Thunderbird 2.3L what will it take to hit 300rwhp?

[Anlushac11]

I have a 1984 Thunderbird 2.3L turbo motor to use. My goal is to hit 300rwhp.

Here are the preliminaries I want to state before I get info.

1)I DO NOT want to gut the upper but am open to rotating it. While gutting does increase plenum size and max horsepower it also takes away from low end velocity and throttle response. The reason I am not opposed to rotating the upper is...

2) I am planning to use a factory type intercooler

3) I plan on on porting and polishing the head and using 1.84" intake and 1.59" exh.

4) I am planning to use a roller cam, maybe a FRPP profile or better if I can find one.

5) Minimum of 2.5" exhaust and downpipe.

6) I already have a K&N airfilter and some piping to the inlet side of turbo.

7) This is going into a 1980 non computer car. I am considering using a blow through carb (yes it will work) or building a Megasquirt DIY fuel injection controller.

8) How much boost will the stock T3 support Motor is to be redlined at 6500rpm. T-5 manual and 3.73:1 traction lock rear. Car should have a curb weight of 2550 lbs.

Your info or thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[351wcoupe]

I have a 1984 Thunderbird 2.3L turbo motor to use. My goal is to hit 300rwhp.

Here are the preliminaries I want to state before I get info.

1)I DO NOT want to gut the upper but am open to rotating it. While gutting does increase plenum size and max horsepower it also takes away from low end velocity and throttle response. The reason I am not opposed to rotating the upper is...

2) I am planning to use a factory type intercooler

3) I plan on on porting and polishing the head and using 1.84" intake and 1.59" exh.

4) I am planning to use a roller cam, maybe a FRPP profile or better if I can find one.

5) Minimum of 2.5" exhaust and downpipe.

6) I already have a K&N airfilter and some piping to the inlet side of turbo.

7) This is going into a 1980 non computer car. I am considering using a blow through carb (yes it will work) or building a Megasquirt DIY fuel injection controller.

8) How much boost will the stock T3 support Motor is to be redlined at 6500rpm. T-5 manual and 3.73:1 traction lock rear. Car should have a curb weight of 2550 lbs.

Your info or thoughts would be appreciated.

depending on the budget this would be my attack plan.

1)I would still gut/rotate the upper.
2)The volvo cooler should be good for that but you could do it easy with the NPR isuzu.
3)1.89/1.59 sounds good and at least a very thorough hand porting.
4)There are people making that kind of power from a ranger roller
5)I would use 3" exhaust regardless and open up an E6
6)K&N cone filter should be good
7)If you wanted it EFI you could use a merk harness and wire it for an LA series.
8)W/ an adustable pressure regulator you could probably 20psi with a good cooler without problem.

The part about a 2500lbs car and 4cyl T5/3.73 makes for a very quick 1st gear. lol no joke be ready to shift by the time you let the clutch completely out.

 

[Stinger]

A t3 will support 300rwhp...that's just about it's max HP though I've seen a few over 315.

3" exhaust is a must.

How will using a "stock style intercooler" and rotating the upper go together?

Don't use a FRPP cam...there are much better options out there.

Why not swap in the FI stuff? It's much easier to get the power out of (this coming from the mouth of guys that were carb and have now converted to EFI).

You'll be pushing a stock IC pretty damn hard to get 300hp through it...not saying it can't be done, there are just better options.

Stinger

 

[Red_LX]

Anlushac, I have an '84 engine myself that I am rebuilding for my TC. However, it's gonna be converted to '87-88 TC specs and I'm shooting for around 250-275 hp.

I elected not to gut my upper (however I will smooth out the inside some) in interest of saving some money, and because it should help out bottom end torque. Which, in an '87 TC, is good.

BTW, don't forget to swap out the 30 lb injectors on the '84 engine for some 35 pounders.

 

[a351Must2]

1)I DO NOT want to gut the upper but am open to rotating it. While gutting does increase plenum size and max horsepower it also takes away from low end velocity and throttle response. The reason I am not opposed to rotating the upper is...

In theory this may be true, but in actual practice you'll find you won't even notice what's lost from gutting the upper. I didn't get a direct comparison with mine, but my new engine has better OFF boost response and power than my old engine and it has a gutted upper. (I'm pretty sure the ported head and big valves is where the improvement came from though) ... The best part is that I can actually drive and accelerate under 2000rpm, which many people have pointed out after gutting the upper. With the stock upper, the whole car would vibrate if I ever let it fall below 2000rpm.