Hey all, haven't posted in a while. Finally time to sell my project, as I just don't have the time I used to. PRICE: $7500 LOCATION: Near Salisbury, Maryland Please ask any questions. The Bad! I always start with what I feel is wrong or needs to be fixed, as I view that as honest disclosure (probably why I’m not in sales). · There is no e-brake. I had something mocked up, but the car sits too low on the current springs, which caused the e-brake cable to rub on the drive shaft. Once a new set of stiffer, slightly taller springs are installed, these are the parts necessary to install an e-brake with the baer ironsport rear brakes. -Lokar XEHB-7000FK - Lokar Floor Mount Emergency Hand Brake -Lokar brake cables EC-80FUTB for Thunderbird brakes (EC-80FU does not have a long enough threaded portion, I learned this the hard way, and wasted that money. · As I said, the car sits very low. It has a set of intrax lowering springs (from the previous owner). They aren’t stiff enough and the car is sitting very low. I had planned on putting on a slightly more rigid set before I decided to sell. They don’t hurt regular driving, but in very hard cornering and braking, there is some slight tire rub in the front (thusly the 235 tires instead of the 255). · Although almost every component on the car is low miles, the body and paint are from 1989. There are numerous scratches, chips, and a few small dings and dents. She is a 10 footer, but the paint really is starting to show its age. · The fiberglass front bumper has some damage to the front corner, and is cracked on the bottom in the center. It is an aftermarket saleen piece, and the replacement part out of urethane from Cervinis is fairly cheap. · The bushings in the rear control arms should be replaced, they, along with the lowering springs, are the cause of the drive shaft rubbing on any e-brake cable installed due to the change in pinion angle. · The dimmer switch inside is showing its age, and can be finicky. I suspect the variable resistor inside isn’t making a good contact point anymore. It is a simple replacement. · There is some bump steer, and turning the wheel too hard will cause the inside edge of the 17" wheel to rub on the a-arm. I had planned on switching to tubular a-arms with coil overs to solve this problem. The Good!: I have owned this car since 2004 and have touched just about every part of it. Beyond some very minor surface rust on some scratches on the outside of the body (less than half a dime size), there isn’t a bit of rust on any part of this car. I have never taken this car to the drag strip, and built it for cruising (3.55 gears). The interior has been completely pulled, and it has sound deadening on the floor to rival luxury cars. Every single part listed has 30,000 miles or less (estimated, probably far less), as I have spent more time under and inside working on the car than I have driving it. The car is completely drivable though, and I wouldn’t hesitate to drive it across the country. I drive it to work occasionally, and take it out on weekends to goof off sometimes. Drive train: · Remanufactured 5.0 Engine by Mid Atlantic Engines in 2002. Serial #46093 · Remanufactured tremec world class t-5 (installed at same time as engine) · Cobra Upper and Lower Intake manifold · Brand new oil pump + pan · Hydraulic roller cam (believe it to be a b303) · March idler pulley delete · AC Delete · BBK cold air intake · Shorty Headers · Off-road H-pipe · Raven performance mufflers · 3” aluminum driveshaft · 31 spline posi rear (3.55 rear end ratio) – posi works flawlessly · 31 spline Ford Racing Performance Parts 5 lug forged rear axles · New differential cover with girdle and drain plug Brakes: · 5 lug upgrade complete. · 13” front twin piston cobra rotors/calipers · 11.5” baer ironsport rear disc brakes. · Stainless steel brake lines · Brand new rear hardline · Adjustable brake proportioning valve · Upgraded master cyclinder to maintain proper pedal pressure. Interior: · Complete custom sound deadening. (ceramic microsphere + por15 base, foil backed foam 2nd layer, mass loaded vinyl 3rd layer, covered with brand new carpet with jute padding). The car is very quiet inside, and is isolated from engine heat. · Brand new headliner made from ABS plastic instead of old flimsy cardboard. · Complete Black interior with un-cracked black dash!! · Florida 5.0 gauge cluster with full Autometer phantom II gauges. · Scat procar seats with sliders and tilt functionality. · Corbeau retractable 4 pt harnesses with custom mounts. · K DeZines rear seat delete kit (1/2” MDF kit with removable panels to access spare tire and storage areas.) · Brand new Power door lock actuators · Brand new power window motors · All new weathers seals (hatch and doors) · Black door kit with billet switch plates. Electrical: · PA Performance 200 amp alternator · Big 3 wiring upgrade complete with 1/0 AWG CCA cable · Shuriken BT-60 AGM battery underhood · 2 additional Shuriken BT-20 AGM batteries in rear storage area. · All wiring and grounds done with 1/0 AWG CCA cable, with all connectors soldered. Body: · Fiberglass Saleen front clip (cracked in bottom center, some chips + scratches) · Fiberglass Saleen rear wing. · New door moldings + door handles. · Brand NEW quarter windows (perfect rubber, no pitting) · 4” fiberglass cowl induction hood with hood pins · One piece headlights with new bulbs · Welded in 4 Point mild steel roll bar. · Welded in sub-frame connectors. Wheels: · 17” 2003 Cobra replicas with 255/45/17’s on rear (almost brand new) + extra set of brand new rear tires. 235/45/17’s on front. · Full set of OEM 17” Mustang Anthracite Bullit wheels (tires on these wheels need to be replaced) Stereo: · Hifonics Brutus BRZ1700.1D Subwoofer Amplifier · HiFonics Zeus ZRX2000.4 Speaker Amplifier · 2 Hifonics Brutus BRZ12D4 12 inch 4-Ohm DVC Subs · Hifonics Zeus ZXI6.5C 2 way component front speakers · JVC Arsenal KDA735BT HeadUnit with Remote + Bluetooth+Front/Rear USB · Clarion EQS746 7 band equalizer · Custom bus bars + turn on relays · All connections have been soldered. Pics in replies!