I’m selling my 1989 Mustang. The odometer reading is 90658, but pretty much everything has been replaced in the last 5-8000 miles anyway suspension and driveline wise anyway. Here is the list of what has been done to the car just to cover all the bases. I drove the car around many a time so it’s definitely a street/strip car, no overheating issues in traffic etc. Turn the key and go with 93 pump gas all day long. Car is currently on 10psi which is roughly 550rwhp but can be turned up to about 16 on pump gas which made about 670rwhp. On race gas we called it quits at 719rwhp at 18psi and a soft tune to be safe in case we ran out of fuel pump (have video). The combination is ready for 1000rwhp without issue with a larger fuel pump and injectors. Car ran 10.28 at 138mph on 10psi first time out off the foot brake (have slip). So it’s an easy 9 second car. If you have any other questions feel free to ask but the car was done right. Just needs some paint and it’ll be a killer street car to cruse with or run 9’s in all day long. Also ready in January for Antique plates if you want. Call/Text/E-mail. 610-349-6908 Asking Price $15,500 Suspension: · Front has Lakewood 90/10 shocks, rear has Lakewood 50/50 shocks. · Moroso Trick Front drag springs. Stock mustang springs in the rear · New Wheel bearings about 10000 Miles ago along with Slotted/Cross Drilled rotors installed. · Rear suspension is all Team Z, adjustable uppers, adjustable lowers, and anti-roll bar. Rear Diff: · Detroit Tru-Trac unit (3 helical gear version) · Currently has 2.73’s in it but I’m also giving a set of 3.27’s with the car. · Replaced all bearings in the rear. · Alloy USA 31 spline hardened axles. · 3” Moser hardened studs. Transmission: · Dynamic transmission TH400 with conversion SFI bell housing. · 1st and 2nd gear decel bands removed for larger clutches. · Trans brake with button on steering wheel. · Reverse pattern full manual valve body. · Stronger driveshaft and u-joints. · Front mounted trans cooler. · Trans brake is also connected to the 2-step (can be on or off in the ECU). I have a safety switch on the T-brake so with the switch in the off position it can just be used for the 2-step, or in the on position 2-step and T-brake). Full boost no problem off the line! Chassis/Inside: · Power windows and door locks (all working). · Weld in Sub-Frame connectors + bolted to seat brackets on both seats. · Drive shaft loop. · “Battle box” torque box reinforcement plates. · 8-Point roll cage, also welded to Sub-Frame connectors. Swing out door bars can be removed or just swung out. I have all grade 8 hardware to install the bars and it’s NHRA legal at the track. · 5 Point harness (NHRA Legal) as well as stock seatbelt. · Hurst Quarter stick shifter for TH400/Powerglide. Mounted in custom box to fit in original 5 speed location. It does not hit the radio but my other radio died and just never replaced it. · All speakers are working as well as dash and gauge lights. · All gauges work, Stock Gauges: Oil Pressure, fuel level, batt voltage, temp. · Other Gauges, Autometer carbon fiber, Boost/Vac, EGT, Trans Temp. AEM Wideband (tied into ECU as well) · Originally a 5 speed car and the pedal is still mounted etc (just under carpet) so it can easily be converted back into a manual car if you’d like. · Hurst Roll Control line lock with safety switch to activate. · Rear seats removed, Battery is located behind passenger seat in NHRA legal aluminum box, tied into the Sub-Frame connectors as well. · Power steering. · Factory A/C car but A/C has been removed. Engine/Fuel/: I have all of the short block build info from the engine builder as well that will go with the car. But I’ll give a general run down. It’s very capable of 1300hp and a solid 1000hp to the wheels with no issues. The short block was built to run NMRA. · Aeromotive A1000 Fuel pump with pre and post filters. · Sumped stock tank, fuel sending unit still works with the stock gauge. · -12 feed lines, -6 return. · Aeromotive Pressure regulator. · Aeromotive larger fuel rails. · Siemens Deka 80lb/hr Pencil injectors, 12ohm. · ARP 2000 Studs and bolts. · JE Kraft Trick flow twisted wedge cut pistons, -18cc dish with JE wrist pins. · Eagle 5.400 H-beam rods. · Ford R-302 Block with painted lifter valley. · Trick Flow Street upper and lower intake. · 75mm Throttle body with EGR delete. · PCV system routed with both valve covers to catch can. · Ford racing F-303 cam. · New double roller timing chain (5K ago). · Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 185CC aluminum heads. · Com cams upgraded valve springs (unsure of spring pressure but good for plenty of boost.) · 9:1 Comp ratio, 150PSI in each cylinder with the comp tester. · Oil filter relocation with racing style larger oil filter. · 2-core aluminum radiator with dual electric fans (ecu controlled and adjustable) Turbo Kit: · Borg Warner S480 Turbo, 80mm compressor, 96mm Turbine with T6, 1.32 AR housing. Anti surge ported, race cover, polished. Good for over 1K to the wheels. · Quick spool valve set to 3psi. Spools very quickly for such a large turbo. · All hot and cold sides’ Tig welded, and coated. · 3” cold side piping with Air to Air intercooler up front. · 4” downpipe. · Custom made tubular headers. Electronics/Ignition: · AEM 30-1400 EMS stand alone ECU (I’ll give you the tunes and install disk) with Painless wiring EFI harness, stock connectors on everything. The ECU does everything you could imagine. · AEM EPM unit (crank and cam sensor). · LS1 style coil packs, 1 for each cylinder. · AEM Wide band gauge also tied into ECU. O2 correction enabled. Extras: · Car will come with Stock hood as well as the fiberglass one on there now. · Extra set of Weld rims with 28x9x15 Hoosier drags (still good). · Extra front GT bumper assembly with headlights etc. · Set of 3.27 rear gears.