1990 Fox With 1980 302 Accessory Bracket?

I would think it should work, but you may need the ford racing AC delete bracket.

I've also learned the hard way that if the alignment isn't flawless, it will eat belts. At $30 a pop, it can get expensive.

I'm not aware of any shimming that was ever done on 86-93's, That may be a work around to get it straight, but I don't think it is the proper way. When I screwed mine up, I had a bolt in the wrong spot.
 
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So now the bracket business is settled as it can be (until inspection), I have to ask, What is wrong with a red interior????
An unfaded red interior would be worth much more than the standard, grimy gray or dirty titanium to me. And black plastics get really hot. Are we supposed to be prejudiced about the color of (seat) skins now?
 
Should not be a huge issue, but there is no reason not to find and use a matching later set of brackets.

That said, the 1980 brackets for a Fox would have been from a 255 v8, the 302 was not offered in 80 or 81. However, they are the same as the 79 302 brackets. in 82 they came out with the later style ac compressor. The alt, waterpump and smog pump will work with later AC and PS brackets, but the 79 to 81 has a bracket for a square York style R12 ac compressor, not useful anymore. The tensioners all interchange, I think. I have two foxes with 79 style brackets, one org and my 82 which has 80 Capri stuff.

You need to find the 86 and up ps and AC brackets to match it.

If you are keeping the engine, I would want a roller cam engine.
 
Just because it has roller rockers, does not mean it is a roller cam engine. When we refer to this, we mean the lifters that ride on the cam itself have rollers. If that is a 1980 block, it would be a "flat tappet" cam engine, meaning the lifters are flat where they meet the cam lobes, and because of our lovely EPA, you have to run zinc additive in the engine oil now.
 
Ok I see what you are saying and can this converted? Also does this apply (epa) if the vehicle does not have to go through emissions. But I have purchased royal purple high mileage oil which has added zinc to the oil.
 
With a carb on a 1990, I don't think you're going through emissions. Lol, as far a converting a non-roller to accept a roller cam, easy. Look at the bottom of the page on this link:

COMP Cams Catalog - Lifters Hydraulic Roller Lifter Installation Kit Ford Retro Fit Kit

P.S. Good luck with the 'stang, and welcome to Stangnet!

Edit: The thing about the EPA was just a hit at them for removing zinc from our engine oil in the first place.
 
Ook haha and thank you I'm glad to be back in the mustang world. I found which bracket was broken and waiting on the piece from foxresto. The only thing I'm concerned about is it looks like the belt will touch itself in the routing going past the tensioner to alternator and back
 
I do not see where the roller lifter vs. rocker was confused. If the owner is honest about it having the E cam, it has either stock or aftermarket roller lifters too. But the OP will not know until tear down or after a tedious process.

And I agree about not passing emissions testing with a carb in place of EFI. But if that is not required in his county, the OP's mechanical experience can help make up for any other hacked part of the conversion and still make it worth buying.

Just because it has roller rockers, does not mean it is a roller cam engine. When we refer to this, we mean the lifters that ride on the cam itself have rollers. If that is a 1980 block, it would be a "flat tappet" cam engine, meaning the lifters are flat where they meet the cam lobes, and because of our lovely EPA, you have to run zinc additive in the engine oil now.
 
I'm going to assume that it has been changed because of the sound of the engine. I've heard flat tappet motors and they have a distinct valve train noise. Although I'm aware that I truly won't know until the engine is apart. The guy I got the car from wasn't too knowledgeable about the motor except for the obvious things and the cam and it being bored out. He got the engine from a friend who builds engines professionally. The motor sounds very healthy and I do plan to eventually take it down to find out what all is done to it. The car needs some Tlc but I'm glad that I got it just a few things to figure out with the belt setup and then clean the half ass wiring up.
 
This should be pretty easy. Only assessories the car is running is the water pump, power steering and alt.

Looks like the tensioner and alternator are in place, and that looks like a late model setup there. On the driver's side of the motor, the front support for the A/C accessory bracket was removed and they just bolted the P/S pump to the inner mount, which is wrong.

However, the Ford racing A/C delete should clean that up nicely

Ford Racing Mustang A/C Delete Kit M-8511-A50 (85-93 5.0L) - Free Shipping
 
A/c delete bracket is ordered. I do have another pressing issue. The motor is a 1980 302 it has professional products balanced which is for a 28oz balanced system which is what a 1980 302 should be. I have a horrible vibration that starts at 2200 rpm and gets worse up to 3000 but gets better after. The flywheel is for 1990 mustang which is for a 50oz system. From what I have read this is my issue. Just want to get feedback. I know it's engine balance Because at a sit still with the clutch in and revving the car still does it.
 
A/c delete bracket is ordered. I do have another pressing issue. The motor is a 1980 302 it has professional products balanced which is for a 28oz balanced system which is what a 1980 302 should be. I have a horrible vibration that starts at 2200 rpm and gets worse up to 3000 but gets better after. The flywheel is for 1990 mustang which is for a 50oz system. From what I have read this is my issue. Just want to get feedback. I know it's engine balance Because at a sit still with the clutch in and revving the car still does it.


It can be done, but that is rare, and not the norm.

For the most part, when assembling an engine, the balances need to be the same. So 28oz balancer and 50 oz flywheel would not be correct