1992 Mustang Lx Wont Run

Lexi

New Member
May 20, 2013
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Newton, Kansas
We have a 92 mustang lx 2.3l non turbo that we bought after it had been sitting for 4-5 years. We cleaned out the tank, changed the plugs and it still ran like crap. It now runs high rpms on start up and idles down after about 5 seconds and dies after 10 seconds. Was told it was the Mass Air Flow and we changed it. It runs better but still have the same issue. We tried replacing the Idle Air Control Valve which did nothing. With both the MAF and the IAC unplugged, the car idles GREAT! With both plugged in, it doesn't want to run for :poo:. Is it possible the TPS is bad or fuel pump or fuel filter? We have spark for sure and compression. Also could it be the fuel regulator?! I don't deal much with fuel injection and it's eating at me why it won't run.
 
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We went and bought the reader so he can check now. My husband said the car is using battery power even when it's just sitting so even though we just bought a brand new battery it dies every time. I don't know the specifics.
 
DO YOU KNOW WHAT THE TWO BLACK BOXES ON EITHER SIDE OF THE FRONT SIDE OF THE RADIATOR ARE? IM ASSUMING RELAYS OF SOME SORT? CANT FIND ANYTHING ONLINE ABOUT THEM BUT THE PASSENGERS SIDE LOOKS LIKE IT HAS BEEN CHEWED ON BY MICE. ALL OTHER ELECTRONICS APPEAR TO BE INTACT AND I FOUND ONE VACUUM LINE THAT COULD HAVE BEEN CAUSING A SMALL ISSUE BUT STILL WONT STAY RUNNING. I PULLED THE VACUUM LINE OFF THE EGR AND WAS GETTING CONSTANT VACUUM BUT THE MOTOR WAS SURGING THE ENTIRE TIME. ALSO, HOW CAN YOU TEST THE MAP AND THE EVR? COMPUTER HASN'T PULLED ANY CODES AT THIS TIME.
 
Air bag sensors?
I'm not too familiar with the fox body stuff.

Might want to buy a Chilton or Haynes repair manual.
A lot of info in those.

Also, yours CAPS are on.
 
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I believe we are also talking about air bag sensors. Most, if not all, relays for a 92 2.3L are in the Integrated Relay Control Module (IRCM) which is known to fail but unlikely the problem here.

For your drain, follow these instructions...

http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain

Charge the battery first, of course.

From another thread I posted in today...


http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=27
To prevent the replacement of good components, be aware that the following non-EEC areas may be at fault:

*Unusually high/low barometric pressure.
*Kinked or obstructed vacuum lines (MAP).
*Basic engine (valves, vacuum leaks, timing, EGR valve, etc.).

The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor operates as a piezoelectric (pressure-sensing) disc. However, rather than generating a voltage, its output is a frequency change. The sensor changes frequency relative to intake manifold vacuum. The sensor frequency increases as vacuum increases. The MAP sensor allows the PCM to determine what the engine load is. Its signal affects air/fuel ratio, ignition timing, EGR flow and altitude compensation.


http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/how-to-test-the-map-sensor-1
Symptoms of a BAD MAP Sensor

When the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor goes BAD, you'll get a failed MAP Sensor Diagnostic Trouble Code.
You'll see one of the following Trouble Codes:
Code 22: MAP Sensor out of range.
Code 72: Insufficient MAP change during Dynamic Response Test.
Code 126: MAP/BARO Sensor higher or lower than normal.
Code 128: MAP Sensor vacuum hose damaged or disconnected.
Code 129: Insufficient MAP change during dynamic response test KOER.

You'll also experience:

Engine cranks for a long time before it starts.
When the Engine starts, you get a lot of black smoke coming out of the tail-pipe.
Engine stalls as soon as it starts.
If the Engine stays running, it idles very rough.
If the Engine runs, you'll get really bad gas mileage.

The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor is one of the most critical sensors the PCM (Powertrain Control Module = Fuel Injection Computer) needs to give the Engine in your car, pickup, van or SUV running optimally and so, when the MAP Sensor fails... you'll get some hard symptoms.
 
The car still isn't throwing any codes at me still. You can keep the car running but only by keeping the throttle revving and even sometimes that doesn't work. What I did notice is how the car idles. It will idle fine and the it will jump real high if you barely get on the gas even the slightest bit. you can put the pedal 1/4 way to the floor and then open it all the way and go back to 1/4 and the way it runs is completely different it seems? Its hard to describe.
 
There are a lot of possibilities - a vacuum leak can cause a high idle and a dying problem, so double check all your vacuum connections and hoses. The EGR (seems to be a very common 2.3L problem) can cause issues if it is malfunctioning, including idle problems and stalling.

You asked about the TPS earlier, here is the test for it.

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/tps/2.3L/ranger/multimeter_tps_test_1.php

Unfortunately, you are going to have a difficult problem because there are no codes, so we have nothing to go on. Now, if the battery was just dead any codes are cleared, so I would try to run it again and re-run for codes.

Also, we need to cover the basics as well, which is fuel pressure, vacuum, spark and compression. Weakness in any of these areas could cause a driveability problem.

One telling thing, though, is that the car is running better with the MAF and IAC unplugged - with these unplugged, the car is going into a limp mode where it uses a predetermined fuel and air strategy. This indicates that we have a problem with one of the sensors, a wiring problem, or (unlikely) a PCM issue. I would double check all connections, grounds, and vacuum lines to the various sensors and really try hard to get it to throw some codes.
 
Yes we did the code read with key on engine off and got nothing. The battery still won't stay charged. The car had been hit at the gas station with the previous owner right on the fuel door. Is it possible it knocked a ground for a loop or something like that? Also, can you test the ECU any other way to make sure that it is in fact the issue? The code reader doesn't light up at any time but it does click through the relays and turns on the fan for a second. Would that be a sign of a good ECU?
 
We found and checked the inertial switch in the trunk on the tail light panel. With tripped, the fuel pump would do nothing like expected however it was not tripped and you can hear the fuel pump before you turn the key to start. Anymore info on the ECU?
 
if there are no fault codes, it should give you an 11, if it wont even give that then the ecu is bad...did you try key on engine off codes?
I’m fighting an issue too...I don’t know much about all of this...still learning...but I would almost have to disagree for I recently had my ECU sent out to Fox Resto...had it repaired...tested and sent back to me and still can’t get a code 11...it’ll initiate the test but nothing comes back...so there is some other wiring issue...for some reason there was no MAP/BAP sensor on the car when I got it...have since replaced it and it won’t idle...I haven’t exhausted all my options to pull codes just yet... I’ve done things to improve the conditions of the engine but yet it some how runs worse...???...plugs...cap/rotor...new fuel pump...cleaned throttle body...replaced gaskets on there and also on upper plenum to lower...TPS checks out okay assuming I’ve checked correctly...it’s also set to .095...IAC would stall it when unplugged before when it would idle with the occasional surge...EGR delete as well...250mi without a hiccup other than low speed bucking...riding the clutch a bit to take off...stalling coming to a stop and now this
Any thoughts...???
Lol
 
I’m fighting an issue too...I don’t know much about all of this...still learning...but I would almost have to disagree for I recently had my ECU sent out to Fox Resto...had it repaired...tested and sent back to me and still can’t get a code 11...it’ll initiate the test but nothing comes back...so there is some other wiring issue...for some reason there was no MAP/BAP sensor on the car when I got it...have since replaced it and it won’t idle...I haven’t exhausted all my options to pull codes just yet... I’ve done things to improve the conditions of the engine but yet it some how runs worse...???...plugs...cap/rotor...new fuel pump...cleaned throttle body...replaced gaskets on there and also on upper plenum to lower...TPS checks out okay assuming I’ve checked correctly...it’s also set to .095...IAC would stall it when unplugged before when it would idle with the occasional surge...EGR delete as well...250mi without a hiccup other than low speed bucking...riding the clutch a bit to take off...stalling coming to a stop and now this
Any thoughts...???
Lol
Old thread and we know nothing about what you have or how long you've had it and any modifications so I suggest starting a new thread and give some info on your stuff.