1994 5.0L GT Convertible [HELP?]

[sKyZ]

I just got a 1994 mustang GT convertible after getting rid of [well totalling due to an animal] my 1994 3.8L. I love the power of the v8 [not to mention the vert ] I currently have a CAI, custom bent exhaust [from cats back] and Flowmaster 40s on my car. It is an automatic and has just under 123,000 miles on it. The car was babied and now that I have it I wanna do some mods. Right now I'm asking if anyone can give me a good estimated HP and quarter mile time. Also, If anyone can give me some good ideas for where to go next? I'm thinking about nitrous, but I'm worried about blowing my engine due to how many miles are on it and it's age. I'd probably be running a 75 shot of wet unless it's a ZEX system, then i'd get a dry system.

Any ideas, complements, suggestions, etc... are welcome.. I just turned 19, help a young college kid build his muscle car

 

[94-302-vert]

Congrats. I bought my 94 GT vert in august also with 123k miles...

I vote to do waht the car needs first... for example mine needed a tune up, then i busted a wheel and bougth wheels, i jsut rebuilt the suspension... jsut take your time and it si fun.. as for performance wise I vote gears....

Chris

 

[Car Nut]

Like mentioned, get the service stuff out of the way: tune-up, oil change, air filter, fuel filter, and maybe some Seafoam to clean the intake/injectors/fuel systems.

As far as mods, you'd get a big bang for the buck with subframe connectors and gears as your first mods.

Afterwards, consider a new mid-pipe (X or H) to greatly improve the sound and volume. Suspension stuff is always good, especially if you like a good handling car. A new shifter (not sure if your tranny is a manual) is definitely an early item on the list.

You've got a vert, so I can't stress the subframes connectors enough. Big difference.

Enjoy!

 

[Swarzkopf]

I agree with the above posters that you need to deal with tune up and service issues first. You should change, in this order:

1. Engine oil.
2. Transmission fluid (I used Mercon V).
3. Coolant (flush the radiator also).
4. PCV valve.
5. Spark plugs and wires.
6. Distributer cap and rotor.
7. Fuel filter.
8. Air filter.
9. Differential fluid.

Make sure you thorougly inspect all brake components, suspension components, and hoses to make sure they're okay.

If your car feels strong, start into modifying it. If it still feels weak, you may want to go with a new MAF (mine was fried when I first bought my 95 GT and the Pro-M 75mm MAF I bought to replace it made the car ALOT faster) and new oxygen sensors.

Modification wise, I say **** the little **** that isn't going to do much anyway. Buy 4.10 gears to help that AODE and an off-road H-pipe (no catalytic converters) first. The car will really wake up at this point.

Next, buy a new fuel pump (at least 190lph) and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Install them, then buy the Zex dry kit you were wondering about (I have it, it's great). Start with the 75 shot and work from there.

As it sits, your car probably runs high 15s. If you do everything I suggested, you should go low 13s easily and blow most peoples doors off while enjoying the breeze in your face.

 

[qwick94GT]

I avereged 14.7 @ 95 mph with a G-Tech, but I have not yet had my 1994 Vert at the track. All I have done is a Cold Air Kit, and a Steeda Tri-Ax

Let me state that I have NOT been to a track yet

 

[wytstang]

Congrats on the buy and again we cannot stress enought about subfram connectors to stiffin the chassis. Since your in school I give you cheap hp proven mods;
1.Underdrive pulleys (ASP alum.)-no you will not have charging or overheating problem, that ussually happens to the older 93-older fox cars not ours.-$100shipped
2. Advance your timing to 13/14* and run the highest octane availiable (92/93)
3. Subframe connectors with seat braces welded in only not bolt on
4. Off raod mid pipe (if you don't have the sniff test) or a catted on-O/R$135shipped-Catted$300+
5. Cobra or edelbrock intake used maybe 350 shipped
All these can be installed you YOU. Gears are great but the install is pricey usually around $400 for install and $135 for gears. Good luck

 

[Stanger007]

Wystang is right on. My vert ran a 15.3 with minimal mods (see sig). The stock AODE is a dog.

I highly recommend a tune-up first off. No sense in throwing on go-fast parts and beating on a car that is out of tune - that's asking for trouble.

Also think about a shift kit and convertor to really wake it up.

Here is a thread that I started that will help you figure out where you want to go with your car. Set a goal upfront so that you don't waste time/money.

Have fun with the car!

 

[wytstang]

I avereged 14.7 @ 95 mph with a G-Tech, but I have not yet had my 1994 Vert at the track. All I have done is a Cold Air Kit, and a Steeda Tri-Ax

Let me state that I have NOT been to a track yet

It will probably run a 15.1 most stock coupe's 5speeds run a 14.7, verts have more wieght and usually run a 15.0/15.1 when stock.

 

[SMOKEDYA]

being a 5spd. coupe owner they sound like they know best with the sub's and like mentioned weld in's not bolt in's. tune up and so forth!!! keep in mind you get what you pay for! also the more power the more traction you'll loose do small mods then work the syspension, you might have 350 hp but your going nowere if ya cant hook!!!!! my biggest noticeable H.P. gain was the alum. asp underdrives dont get steel!!! then was the lower rear control arms (steeda alum non adj.) being i'm not to educated on NOS but i would say if the engine is healthy at your milage then just make shure you have plenty of fuel!!!! like a 255 lph in tank or better fuel pump. but then again look for a diffrent intake the stock one is junk and robbbbbbbbbbssssss powa!!!! keep in mind that when you do an aftermarket intake then you will need an elbow as well unless you convert to a fox style system! the elbows range in at about $100. little things you can do to gain some H.P with no money are to set the timming get a colder t-stat (well a couple bucks) take out the air box silencer (beg to differ on this ) as far as gears i'm not shure on what ones being it's an auto but my buddy has a fox auto and has 3.73's and seems to like them, i run 3.55 with a 5speed but i wanna switch to 4.10's just do your homework and DONT CHEAP OUT trust me i learned the hard way with flow tech headers but they will be replaced soon with some bassani's ceramic coated ones as i do the heads ! peace



john

 

[sKyZ]

Thanks for the ideas guys. I think I'll go with the subframe connectors ASAP. how much should they run me, and can i weld them in myself? how hard are they to weld in? why not bolt ons?

2. my car is currently in the middle of a tune up, and wow.. the power is really waking up.. i got a cheap CAI off ebay [i mean, how good can quality be on a peice of bent metal?]

3. do our cars have locking rear ends or is it still the 1 wheel peel like on the v6's?

4. Why not steel underdrive pullies?

5. how much would rear end gears cost me and what should i go with? 3.50's, 3.55's, 3.73's, or 4.10's? it's my daily driver also, so yeah...

Thanks guys

 

[greenlantern]

Subframes made a huge difference in the way my car handled. With your car being an Auto I would suggest 3.73's, or 4.10's. Congrats on your buy.

 

[wytstang]

Thanks for the ideas guys. I think I'll go with the subframe connectors ASAP. how much should they run me, and can i weld them in myself? how hard are they to weld in? why not bolt ons?

I got steeda subframe connectors they were on clearance for 91shipped. For a street car that's not going to see the track a lot a cheap pair will do as good a job as high priced ones will do imo. Also not bolt on because bolt on's begin to twist were the bolt are making them useless. A shop will charge anywere from $100-150 maybe even cheaper depending on your area.

2. my car is currently in the middle of a tune up, and wow.. the power is really waking up.. i got a cheap CAI off ebay [i mean, how good can quality be on a peice of bent metal?]

Smart man CAI really don't add hp at all they are more for bling.

3. do our cars have locking rear ends or is it still the 1 wheel peel like on the v6's?

Both tires will break loose trust me

4. Why not steel underdrive pullies?

Not steel because steel rust and alum. are lighter creating less parasitic(sp?) loss

5. how much would rear end gears cost me and what should i go with? 3.50's, 3.55's, 3.73's, or 4.10's? it's my daily driver also, so yeah...

Gears can be had for around $145 shipped were it gets $$ is the install shops charge normally around $400. While your in the rear end you might as well rebuild the trac-lock and rebuild kits go for $50 this will help avoid the "one wheel peel". Which one to get well that an on going argument on the net it really comes down to YOUR plans for the car. Most 5 speed coupes staying n/a that drive a lot of highway go with 3.73's (which is what I have and love them) but if you do more city driving 4.10 can be used. If you plan on using a power adder than 3.55 may be the way to go. It's all up to you and what you want to do. Good luck.

 

[Swarzkopf]

3. do our cars have locking rear ends or is it still the 1 wheel peel like on the v6's?

Our cars have traction-lok differentials. However, after many years or after some abuse, these differentials can stop working and in effect be one wheel peelers. Brake torque your car until you leave some rubber, then get out and check to see if you laid two strips or one.

If one, at the minimum a fluid change is needed. With my car, at 84,000 miles the differential stopped distributing power to both wheels. The clutches had worn and deposited clutch material in the fluid. A differential fluid change fixed my problems, and my differential puts power to both wheels even launching on a 100 shot.

If you try a fluid change and still are one wheel peelin', you'll need to rebuild the differential. There are lots of online tutorials and the rebuild kit runs about $50 from Ford. Usually a fluid change works.

4. Why not steel underdrive pullies?

Because aluminum is lighter and creates less inertia for your drive belt to overcome, thus freeing up more horsepower.

5. how much would rear end gears cost me and what should i go with? 3.50's, 3.55's, 3.73's, or 4.10's? it's my daily driver also, so yeah...

$200 for the gears, $300 for an install.

Go with 4.10s. I have them and they're fine on the highway with overdrive out of my AODE.

You'll need 4.10s to get the full benefit of gears, since first gear in our AODE is so, so high (numerically low).

 

[davins130]

SMOKEDYA, dont hate on the flowtec headers! i have no complaints other than they rusted to hell..... I have a 94 auto vert.... i ran 15.5 stock, pullies got me to 15.2, gears made me stay at 15.2 with a worse 60' but that can be solved with drag radials...And now to the nitrous... I have a zex dry kit and i love it, i started at 100 hp and immidiatly put in the 125 jets, just dont got lean ( i havent even put in my bigger fuel pump yet and im fine) Al though that Zex kit did produce enouph power to fry my transmission, and now i dont have one....A touqe converter will help you out ALOT. BEAT HER TILL BLOWS!

 

[davins130]

dont waste your money on stupid bolt on's, save up and get a supercharger or something.

 

[sKyZ]

well i don't have 1000+ dollars to blow on a blower. I think i'll go with the gears, boltons, and nitrous.. Thanks for the information guys it's helped alot.

 

[pwcracer]

bolt on

Here is a good .pdf from Kenne bell on how much bolt ons really add..

http://www.kennebell.net/techinfo/ford-techinfo/boltonVSsc.pdf

 

[Swarzkopf]

I think i'll go with the gears, boltons, and nitrous..

Definitely a winning combination.

Next year, or whenever your ready, you can add heads, a cam, and an intake manifold and REALLY kick some ass.

 

[silverstangman]

most guys will say the most worthwhile mod, as far as everyday enjoyment comes out of a full exhaust setup, and gears. Those would be the first two mods on my list if I was you. auto tranny with 120k i'd go with 3.73's just so u still get decent mpg. tune up stuff is really important, changing fuel filter restored alot of power to my vert.

 

[sKyZ]

Well lets hope it restores power.. i went out tonight and ment up with a civic hatchback and a camaro SS.. both smoked me...during my last race with the camaro my check engine light came on and i lost all power to my wheels at about 3500 RPMs right before 3rd gear.. i can understand losing to the camaro..but the civic...i was saddened.. tomorrow the car gets all her tune-ups, timing ajusted, and hopefully she'll be back to full health. :'(