Mattstang04
15 Year Member
Coming together nice. Looks good in the picture. Fingers crossed. Are you in the st louis area? I see you said something about stl mustangs.
Progress Thread 1998 Gt Procharger Build--dyno And Track Numbers Inside
- Thread starter squeak93
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We are in Joplin (SW MO). Monks is worth the drive for a tune. The car made good power even though it had a boost controller issue.
I'm going to stay with the same tuner I used the first time. I'm hoping I don't make TOO much power for the stock rods. Goal is 410-420 rwhp. It only made 340 before but obviously had issues and crap npi heads, non degreed cams etc.
I'm going to stay with the same tuner I used the first time. I'm hoping I don't make TOO much power for the stock rods. Goal is 410-420 rwhp. It only made 340 before but obviously had issues and crap npi heads, non degreed cams etc.
Here is the link to my start up video last night.
View: https://youtu.be/ep6t1knQj_Y
I had minimal shimming to do on the blower as the new pulley (non procharger) wasn't off set like the others. The belt alignment looks amazing and it made all the right noises. I obviously couldn't let it eat as it needs a retune due to the new heads and properly degreed cams.
View: https://youtu.be/ep6t1knQj_Y
I had minimal shimming to do on the blower as the new pulley (non procharger) wasn't off set like the others. The belt alignment looks amazing and it made all the right noises. I obviously couldn't let it eat as it needs a retune due to the new heads and properly degreed cams.
Mattstang04
15 Year Member
Scubastevesstang
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- Sep 5, 2016
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I'm working that out now. The original tuner will get back to me tonight if we can squeeze it in Friday. I'll have to leave it with him which SUCKS because I like everyone else, want to see my own car on the rollers lol.
If he can't this Friday I may wait until I can be there in person as Sunday is the last track day of the year at Mokan anyway.
Still no word on when I'll be tuning it. After taking to Bob Monks he wants to drop the tank and make sure the basket has been modified so we don't suck it dry (stupid 98 only problem).
I'll follow up with him Monday and set a Dyno appt for a Friday in the near future.
I have put a lot of easy street miles on it. I let it make 4/5 lbs of boost a few times and it does it with ease.
Sadly my front cover is still leaking. The oil pan gasket looked sketchy so we siliconed it heavily on the bottom of the cover. It still leaks. Doesn't appear to be getting on the belt which is good so I'll leave it be as I don't feel like an in car gasket replacement.
I'll follow up with him Monday and set a Dyno appt for a Friday in the near future.
I have put a lot of easy street miles on it. I let it make 4/5 lbs of boost a few times and it does it with ease.
Sadly my front cover is still leaking. The oil pan gasket looked sketchy so we siliconed it heavily on the bottom of the cover. It still leaks. Doesn't appear to be getting on the belt which is good so I'll leave it be as I don't feel like an in car gasket replacement.
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December 16th is when we are hauling it to Bob Monks at Stlmustangs.
They are going to address the fuel basket/pump for me while it's there. I have read threads on the mod needed but most pics from said threads are long gone by now. Monks knows exactly what is needed and only wants 1.5 hrs labor to do it. So they can have at it. (I mean who really likes dropping the tank anyway?)
They are going to address the fuel basket/pump for me while it's there. I have read threads on the mod needed but most pics from said threads are long gone by now. Monks knows exactly what is needed and only wants 1.5 hrs labor to do it. So they can have at it. (I mean who really likes dropping the tank anyway?)
Mattstang04
15 Year Member
I drilled the fuel pump basket on my 04 GT with the svt focus pump. Don't know if it helped me at all. The idea made sense thigh. Had to keep at least a quarter tank of gas in it. I worried that a low gas level or a hard turn would drain the basket and leave the pump sucking air. It worked until the pump went out (probably from age). Still had to have a JMS fuel pump booster. Ended up putting a steeda high flow pump in it. Then I was able to turn the JMS off. That pump worked well. Handled 12psi of boost in my car.
Yeah I've read 1/4 to be safe or just no aggressive driving if you run below (or hard corners). I am a 1/2 tank and I'm empty type of guy anyway (While my wife is a "my gas light isn't on yet" type of person lol).
I've read the threads a long time ago when we built the 98 n2o car but we chose to use a 96/97 tank, rails and adj regulator with a painless fuel pump relay hard wired in. We burned up two svt foci pumps in it before we knew that it was the 98 basket/tank causing dry issues. (had some leak spikes on the sauce as you imagine too).
I'll let monks do his think as they've built a few nasty 96-98 procharged cars in that shop and he is way more knowledgeable than I am on the hole locations/sizes.
I've read the threads a long time ago when we built the 98 n2o car but we chose to use a 96/97 tank, rails and adj regulator with a painless fuel pump relay hard wired in. We burned up two svt foci pumps in it before we knew that it was the 98 basket/tank causing dry issues. (had some leak spikes on the sauce as you imagine too).
I'll let monks do his think as they've built a few nasty 96-98 procharged cars in that shop and he is way more knowledgeable than I am on the hole locations/sizes.
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Well it's been a long wait (over 3 weeks lol) but we should be good to go for Friday's tune with Monks. I was worried about the weather as I have to drive over 4 hours to get there but it looks like the wx will go north.
I've checked the car over a few hundred times at this point. Nothing sticks out at me as a no no, I have some spare t bolt clamps, belts (lol), oil, trans fluid, fuel filter, tank grommet (to do the pump and basket work), and spark plugs (extras). I'm not sure what else I'm missing other than filling up the truck with fuel/def and making sure the car has gas as well (that would suck lol).
I'm anxious to get this pig making and driving like it has some power.
I let it eat one day just for a moment and made a nice 7lbs at about 3500 rpm in third gear. No sign of belt dust or any slippage (better not with 8 rib setup). I'm still fighting a new oil leak I can't track down but that is what it is for now. It's not getting on the belt so I'm going to wait and figure it out another time (Likely the pan gasket giving me the finger, or the rear main decided it had enough).
I'll post some updates once we get it to make some power. Maybe Friday eve before we leave the shop or maybe Sat after I wake up.
I've checked the car over a few hundred times at this point. Nothing sticks out at me as a no no, I have some spare t bolt clamps, belts (lol), oil, trans fluid, fuel filter, tank grommet (to do the pump and basket work), and spark plugs (extras). I'm not sure what else I'm missing other than filling up the truck with fuel/def and making sure the car has gas as well (that would suck lol).
I'm anxious to get this pig making and driving like it has some power.
I let it eat one day just for a moment and made a nice 7lbs at about 3500 rpm in third gear. No sign of belt dust or any slippage (better not with 8 rib setup). I'm still fighting a new oil leak I can't track down but that is what it is for now. It's not getting on the belt so I'm going to wait and figure it out another time (Likely the pan gasket giving me the finger, or the rear main decided it had enough).
I'll post some updates once we get it to make some power. Maybe Friday eve before we leave the shop or maybe Sat after I wake up.
Well after all the wait we got hosed by a freak freezing drizzle storm. We were delayed 4+ hours and got to the tuner too late. So I left the car with him to deal with next week and lll just go back after it.
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Mattstang04
15 Year Member
This weather is pretty awful. Freezing, melting, then re freezing. I'm sure your tuner will get the car straight for you. Waiting sucks but better than having to take the car back and forth again. Keep the updates coming.
ANNNDDDD I got the call no one wants to get while their car is at the tuner/dyno. Prior to tuning cars Monks always checks compression/leakdown etc as well as goes over the car with a fine tooth comb.
When he first saw the car he compliment me on how clean it is (That makes a guy feel good about his build). So we talked about a few things, identified a couple of potential weak links but overall had no real issues about the car and parts chosen.
Yesterday he called and advised that while doing the compression check cylinder 1 only makes 80# to the others 180#. He did a leak down and it leaks 55% (Iirc). That means the cylinder is still firing but obviously not at its full potential and it will create a hot spot and burn it down eventually.
So no dyno, no tune, no luck again. I guess I'll go make the 10 hour round trip to pick up a broken car and figure out what plan b is.
I found a used set of 03/04 cobra take out rods/pistons. I already have my hands on a teksid block and cobra crank from my old 96 cobra.
I mean it's only money and at least it's winter. But this is the build the keeps on giving.
Or I say screw it, part it all out and maybe go coyote and be faster than a 2v with a blower.
And for the record, in no way shape or form am I blaming Monks or the prior tuner. I think the car has always had a weak cylinder which would explain the lack of power at all stages.
When he first saw the car he compliment me on how clean it is (That makes a guy feel good about his build). So we talked about a few things, identified a couple of potential weak links but overall had no real issues about the car and parts chosen.
Yesterday he called and advised that while doing the compression check cylinder 1 only makes 80# to the others 180#. He did a leak down and it leaks 55% (Iirc). That means the cylinder is still firing but obviously not at its full potential and it will create a hot spot and burn it down eventually.
So no dyno, no tune, no luck again. I guess I'll go make the 10 hour round trip to pick up a broken car and figure out what plan b is.
I found a used set of 03/04 cobra take out rods/pistons. I already have my hands on a teksid block and cobra crank from my old 96 cobra.
I mean it's only money and at least it's winter. But this is the build the keeps on giving.
Or I say screw it, part it all out and maybe go coyote and be faster than a 2v with a blower.
And for the record, in no way shape or form am I blaming Monks or the prior tuner. I think the car has always had a weak cylinder which would explain the lack of power at all stages.
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Mattstang04
15 Year Member
Tough pill to swallow. Man that's frustrating. Saw that you posted and was in a hurry to see some dyno numbers. Instead, bad news.
How bad are coyote swaps in our cars? I've never really followed any threads about them. Wouldn't blame you if you did either. 2 valves are cheaper to work with, especially if you already have the parts. Coyotes are pricey but man they got the power.
Sorry again. Keep us posted.
How bad are coyote swaps in our cars? I've never really followed any threads about them. Wouldn't blame you if you did either. 2 valves are cheaper to work with, especially if you already have the parts. Coyotes are pricey but man they got the power.
Sorry again. Keep us posted.
Coyote swaps are just about the same regardless of the year. Motor, harness, exhaust and electronics are what's needed. 5-7k depending on if you can find used stuff etc.
I got the official it's not going to come back alive call a bit ago. So I'll go fetch it (10 hour round trip, yay lol) and start the tear down asap.
I'm bidding on a set of 03/04 cobra rods/pistons so maybe I can score those cheapish and put together a solid budget short block with my iron block and factor crank. should be solid for 800-1khp with good hardware.
I'll make updates as we tear stuff out and source parts.
I got the official it's not going to come back alive call a bit ago. So I'll go fetch it (10 hour round trip, yay lol) and start the tear down asap.
I'm bidding on a set of 03/04 cobra rods/pistons so maybe I can score those cheapish and put together a solid budget short block with my iron block and factor crank. should be solid for 800-1khp with good hardware.
I'll make updates as we tear stuff out and source parts.
There are a few scenario's. Ones is a lack of spark or fuel to that one cylinder causing a lean/heat issue, therefore a ring issue. Another is maybe the cylinder has been weak since inception and the new found boost has exposed it. The other is who knows. lol.
The heads were off just a month ago and all pistons/cylinder walls passed a very accurate visual test (sarcasm inserted). However all cylinders did have cross hatching on the walls still and the motor only has 55k (less actually) on it.
Best guess is an injector clogged/malfunctioned and created an issue. I'll send them off for cleaning just in case or I may go with new 60's vs the 42's. Just need to make sure I have enough fuel as we are going to turn this turd up since it's getting a stout short block.
The heads were off just a month ago and all pistons/cylinder walls passed a very accurate visual test (sarcasm inserted). However all cylinders did have cross hatching on the walls still and the motor only has 55k (less actually) on it.
Best guess is an injector clogged/malfunctioned and created an issue. I'll send them off for cleaning just in case or I may go with new 60's vs the 42's. Just need to make sure I have enough fuel as we are going to turn this turd up since it's getting a stout short block.
So I've decided to go with the Teksid block, 96 cobra crank (8 bolt), 03/04 terminator rods/pistons and for sure ARP rod bolts. I've not decided if I need to spend the massive amount of money for the rest of the arp stuff as the stock stuff is very sturdy.
I'm hoping to get a head start and pull the car apart over the long weekend. We will see as I've got a few small upgrade projects to work on at the same time. It sucks pulling it apart as it runs and drives fine (other than horrific fuel mileage).
I'm trying to decide on if I'm going to upgrade to long tube's as well. Now's the time to do it but my concern is fitment due to the auto and of course it's another 1k on top of an unexpected short block build. We are also going to be able to eliminate the plastic procharger intake tube and just run a turbo guard on it. I am going to wire into the maf iat vs using a stock setup (SCT ba5000 maf). This alone should make a couple pounds more boost.
We are also for sure adding a 3200-3500 stall while the trans etc is out.
I'll also be able to hunt down the sudden trans fluid leak and fix the oil leaks I can't figure out.
Once it's all said and done I'll get it back to Monks and make some power. Here's to hoping we are in the 500+ rwhp club after this is all said and done. And more importantly that it runs at the truck like a 500+ hp car should.
I'm hoping to get a head start and pull the car apart over the long weekend. We will see as I've got a few small upgrade projects to work on at the same time. It sucks pulling it apart as it runs and drives fine (other than horrific fuel mileage).
I'm trying to decide on if I'm going to upgrade to long tube's as well. Now's the time to do it but my concern is fitment due to the auto and of course it's another 1k on top of an unexpected short block build. We are also going to be able to eliminate the plastic procharger intake tube and just run a turbo guard on it. I am going to wire into the maf iat vs using a stock setup (SCT ba5000 maf). This alone should make a couple pounds more boost.
We are also for sure adding a 3200-3500 stall while the trans etc is out.
I'll also be able to hunt down the sudden trans fluid leak and fix the oil leaks I can't figure out.
Once it's all said and done I'll get it back to Monks and make some power. Here's to hoping we are in the 500+ rwhp club after this is all said and done. And more importantly that it runs at the truck like a 500+ hp car should.
