1TallMF, Hissin, Grady come in here please.

I hadn't had access to these forums in a while so I posted my questions on sn95forums.com and was helped by ryclef(awesome guy). I just want you guys to give it a look over since you 3 are the ones that always help me here. I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything. Please take time to read the threads and response. :SNSign:

1st. Pinging and octane
http://www.sn95forums.com/forum/index.php?topic=6520.0

2nd. slick tire size
http://www.sn95forums.com/forum/index.php?topic=6719.0

3rd. Timing and rockers
http://www.sn95forums.com/forum/index.php?topic=6652.0

4th. Exhaust crackle
http://www.sn95forums.com/forum/index.php?topic=6793.0

5th. 5.0 in a 98 stang
http://www.sn95forums.com/forum/index.php?topic=6838.0

I know it's a lot, but I would really appreciate you guys' input.:hail2:
 
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I agree with most of it. There are fine-points that don't matter. E.g., detonation and pre-ignition are NOT the same thing. But you were really inquiring about detonation and he covered that.

In the ticking thread, I only had time to skim it real quick but it looked alright. One thing: if you are desiring only 33* total timing, you're going to need a means of tuning that in bud. Even if you ran the base timing down to zero, you'd still go past 33*. The low and mid range timing is outrageous. We're going to want to work on that gurgling issue but I need more caffeine and my thinking cap.

Those seemed most important - I don't have time to do the others now; I'll read 'em later. I'm sure Grady, Paul, 1TMF and everyone else will have great thoughts for ya.

I need to go clean up storm damage from yesterday.

Good luck.
 
Well, I had nothing to do this afternoon so I actually had time to go through most of that. That ryclef guy seems to be on the ball and really know his stuff.

I have a bit of valvtrain noise at idle if I open the hood, but I'm not too concerned about it. Have you ever considered the ticking to come from a barely tracable header leak? My crappy Mac headers have been leaking for ages now, but only when the engine is under load. That sort of noise can be real hard to track-down, I was only able to determine that it was the headers when I had the car running on the emissions test dyno at the local shop, since it would not do it when simply revving it. It was very obvious on the dyno. Anyways, just a thought I had...

As for the rest, shouldn't be too hard to swap a 5.0 into a '98, you just need the k-member as mentioned, the front accessory drive (plenty of choices here, both stock and aftermarket), a tranny and bellhousing that will work with the 5.0L, driveshaft from a '87-'95 stang (not sure if the '96-up are longer or shorter though), and of course the wiring harness and computer from a 5.0L. I think the '98 gauge cluster will work, but some modifications might be required for it to work. Then of course he'll need the headers and mid-pipe from a 5.0L car. The '98 cars also use a hydroboost system to work the power brakes instead of a vacuum booster, so chances are he'll have to make custom hoses to adapt a 5.0L p/s pump to the factory hydroboost, or just get a 5.0L vacuum booster and master cylinder.
I'm sure there is more to it, but thats all I can think of at the moment. It would be best to have a donor car to do the swap.

I agree with everything else. I'm sure I forgot to mention something...
 
Thanks a lot guys. I know it may be a lot to ask but I just wanted your opinions. I went ahead and checked the zero lash and the noise is still there. I'm just going to dismiss it as mechanical rocker noise. I really don't think it's a header leak, I've recently changed out the gaskets and I can hear the noise on both sides. But just to make sure I'll look into it. I passed the info you gave me on the 98 5.0 swap to my buddy. Thanks

Hissin, can you elaborate on that crackle thing, please?

Thanks
 
Hey Nacho :D

Sorry I took so long to reply but haven't had the time to do a lot
or reading lately :(

I quickly skimmed the #3 timing & rocker thread

Looks to me like that guy has a solid understanding of our hobby :nice:
so
you just might be able to take his info to heart :shrug:

As JT said above! :)

I know the ping thing is so :bang:
but
You just don't have enough options with dizzy twisting ......
to make all that much of a difference :shrug:

You dial it back to kill ping :nice:
and
You then find ... You've killed power in doing so :notnice:

When you have load AND rpm access ............
You can build any kind of custom spark curve you want or need ;)

I know you don't wanna tune :D
but
You keep posting up stuff that tells me .....
You have an inquisitive mind and wanna learn :nice:

Seems like your concerns and actions don't go hand in hand :shrug:

Grady
 
Hissin, can you elaborate on that crackle thing, please?

Thanks

I was originally thinking that your funny exhaust noise might be coming from some sort of induction/miss glitch. And that's obviously something to address if that's the case. Now if it's just a noise originating and egressing at the exhaust, well I dunno' that it's so important (I spent some time yesterday - after a record setting low temp - lying on the driveway checking my exhaust over too). These noises are hard to describe so I don't want to guess what a gurgle/crackle sounds like and mislead you.

All in all, it sounds like it's no biggie.

Nacho, if you have a mechanics stethoscope, it can really help narrow down noises. Just make sure you don't need to go potty before you start, because when you bump the probe into a moving part, you'll crap your pants. :D The scopes from HF or parts stores work just fine IMHO.

Good luck bud.
 
lol^ at the crapping part. I'll make note of that. I had a small leak on my header collector so that may be what was causing that crackle. I had already checked and nothing was found, I only found it today cause the collector had a black smudge right at the leak. I just tightened it up some more and it seems good.

Grady, I just found using the TWEECER so damn tedious and annoying. It may pay off at the end but ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, I don't have the patience. I like quick fixes and the TWEECER just isn't the way to do it. The funny part was that while I was under the car today, I heard the same "rocker" noise under the car right under cylinder #1, but louder. I need to get back under there and make sure it ain't nothing else.

White smoke = gas right? I had some.
 
also a screwdriver works for finding sounds too, pretty decently too if you have the right one, solid plastic handle. :nice: doesnt work as well as what was mentioned above, but you have it laying around the house.
 
On the rocker setup deal,

with the valve/cam setup at mid lift (1/2 threw the lift of the cam) is when to check to make sure the rocker tip is dead center, with it closed it will be slightly off center as it does travel some from 0-mid and mid-full lift. With the tip dead center and setup properly it will also be the narrowest amount of travel across the valve head.

To adjust the rocker and its "travel" you will use shims if ped. mount. You will use the adj. PR to get the length needed with shims that get the mid lift to set the tip dead center of the valve head. For the proper lenght you will need to bring the cam to its base circle (valve closed) and with the rocker in its setup for dead center tip on valve head and adj. the PR to 0 lash.