2000 GT died today!

DblAughtGT

New Member
Sep 10, 2010
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Hey guys, looking for some advice here. I have a 2000 GT that is giving me some problems. The car was running fine earlier today. I went to leave the house after lunch and it started right up, and then immediately started idling really rough. It would have died, but I kept patting the gas to keep it running. It sounded like it was seriously cammed! But it was like it had no power. It finally died and wouldn't start back. The only way that I got it to start again was after I took the IAC off and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner, as well as cleaned the ports for the IAC on the throttle body. It started up, and I kept it running for 4 or 5 minutes. When it first cranked, again it sounded like it was cammed. Just a really rough idle, and even when i would pedal the throttle. If I tried to rev it quick, it cuts out, almost like a backfire. But if I revved it slow and steady it seemed ok. Then I just left it to idle by itself and it did so for about 1-2 minutes, then it died, and wouldn't start back. If there is anything else that you guys need to know to help me out, please let me know. Any advice that you can give will be greatly appreciated!
 
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+1 on the fuel filter. Clean the MAF. Use only a product designed for the job.

Next, inspect all of the spark plug wells for moisture. What is the condition of the spark plugs?

Check for vacuum leaks. Especially around the TB and PCV valve. Don't cut corners here.

Check the throttle return springs. Does the TB move freely and close tight?

Try this. Cycle the key on/pause/off several times. Listen for the fuel pump to prime each time. Does this improve starting? Is so, suspect leaky fuel injectors or bad fuel pump.

Next try holding the throttle half way open during cranking. Does this imrove starting? If so, suspect a bad IAC.
 
If I tried to rev it quick, it cuts out, almost like a backfire. But if I revved it slow and steady it seemed ok. Then I just left it to idle by itself and it did so for about 1-2 minutes, then it died, and wouldn't start back.

Couple of thoughts:

The need for "slow and steady" suggests a fuel pressure problem. If you can get it to repeat the dying-at-idle thing, you might want to carefully depress the Schrader valve on the fuel rail (watch for fuel spray!) to see if there's any pressure in the fuel rails.

To me, the sudden nature of the onset of the symptoms doesn't point to a dirty MAF or fuel filter issue. The suggestion by wmburns to check for vacuum leaks is solid: Check for large cracks in the ducting between the MAF and the TB. Look carefully in the folds of the accordion section (if you've got the stock intake) for cracks.

If you've got fuel pressure, you may have no spark. This may point to a failing CPS (crank position sensor.)

Can you connect a scan tool to it and read the fuel pressure and any pending (or present) codes?
 
FWIIW, I don't really believe this is a MAF problem. But IMO it is still a valuable step to include for a number of reasons (some better than others).

  • Next to the CKP, the MAF is one of the "key" sensors that directly affects drivabilty.
  • MAF contaminaton is frequent occurence esp with oiled air filters.
  • It is cheap and easy to do and IMO should be considered part of regular maintenance
  • Asking the OP to clean the MAF gets the OP's buy in. If the OP is unwilling to do a very simple job like cleaning the MAF, then it is unlikely they will perform any of the other diagnostic steps suggested.

There are just some basic maintenance steps the should be ruled out before any serious trouble shooting begins. How many threads have we all seen with similar symptoms that are solved by "changing the fuel filter" or "changing the spark plugs" or "cleaning the MAF"?

Just seems like it saves everyone's time (IMO).

If there's something I'm missing, please chime in. If there is a way to improve the overall "process", I'm all ears. Thanks.
 
To the OP, is this car your DD? Do you need to get it back on the road quickly? If so, I have some suggestions that may speed this process up.

What were the results of the other test requested? These are simple tests that believe it or not will help to narrow down the problem. This is about having information. No information frequently means no help.

Consider using the Schrader valve to test for fuel pressure is only a very BASIC functional test of the fuel pump. It will not help if the fuel pump is weak and simply not able to supply enough fuel.

So if there is NO fuel pressure at the Schrader valve, then post that back and go from there. Reminder, it makes a difference if you can't hear the fuel pump running at all during the key off/on/off/on sequence. But assuming there are no blown fuses, the odds would favor a bad fuel pump.

Consider the next sequence of events. The test for fuel shows there is some. Ok, the car starts and idles but does not rev. What is going to be the next test? What is the fuel pressure? You can't answer that.

So the next action should be to rent a fuel pressure gauge from your local autoparts store. Measure the fuel pressure. Post what it is at idle. Next remove and plug the fuel pressure vacuum reference line. The fuel pressure should immediatly go to 40 PSI (gauge). Rev the motor slowly and take note of the fuel pressure. It should remain at 40 PSI.

Disclaimer. NEVER drive the car with the FP vacuum reference line disconnected. This is for a quick test. It is easier to understand the results when using an external gauge with the reference line disonnected.

Reconnect the FP reference line. The FP should drop back to about 30 PSI. This is normal. Remember the FP is actually intake referenced and the intake is under a vaccum at idle.

If the pressure does not behave as expected, the FP sesnor may be bad.

The test results will help rule in/out the fuel pump, fuel pressure sensor, and IAC. Wouldn't you rather replace bad parts the first time?
 
Yes this is my DD, and I need to get it back on the road fast! I was able to get the car fired up yesterday again, with the help of a few shots of throttle body cleaner into the IAC port on the front of the throttle body. I kept it running for about 10-15 minutes. It was running extremely rough, dropping out if I tried to rev it quick. But a slow steady press of the pedal would rev it. While it was running, it seriously sounded like it was cammed. I shut it off, and immediately attempted to crank again, with no luck. I laid under the back of the car, and had someone turn the ignition. A "click" could be heard, but no "hum" of the fuel pump. Then I unhooked the line from the tank side of the filter, and turned the switch, no fuel. I then proceeded to drop the tank so that I could get my hand to the top of the pump. Had someone turn the switch, no vibration at all from the pump. So now, I have dropped the tank completely. To be completely honest, somewhat unsure of what to do next. As I was browsing the site here for help, I came across this post, http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/822841-2000-mustang-gt-ccrm-fuel-pump-issue-2.html . This seems strangely similar to the problem I am having, only my car hasnt been sitting for a long period of time. I have checked under the hood for any breaks in the MAF connectors and found everything to be solid. Thanks again for your help. I am anxiously awaiting any advice that you can provide!
 
IMO, don't make this any harder than it needs to be. It does not make sense to look for a wiring problem when a common part failure (fuel pump) has yet to be fully ruled out.

This is the reason for the systematic tests.

For example, have you checked all of the fuses in the engine bay battery junction box (BJB) to see if good? Have you confirmed that the theft light is not fast blinking with the key on or during cranking?

Please look at the thread below. IMO, this is your problem. The thread has detailed test procedures to confirm a bad fuel pump diagnosis.

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/824672-fuel-delivery-issues.html
 
Thanks for the advice! I had to work all day today. But I plan to run some tests tomorrow and see what I come up with. I will post what I figure out. Thanks again for the help. I really do appreciate it.
 
Well, I know it's been a few weeks, but I finally got it fixed last week. After running all of the tests advised by wmburns, everything pointed to the fuel pump. I replaced it and she's running good as new! Thanks for the help!