2000 GT Motor Build

Discussion in '1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-' started by nine2oneGT, Nov 17, 2011.


  1. nine2oneGT

    nine2oneGT Member

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    OK guys I have not made a post in a while, been super busy, but I think its time to share this with the world.

    Last December I decided to install a V-1 Vortech on my GT, lets just say she had some miles. Long story short it was a HUGE pain in the ass and the motor blew on the last dyno pull. Hung a piston then the broken rod poked 3 holes in the block.

    Waited to save up some money for built motor. Decided to go with the MMR 1000hp stroker rotating assembly. Got a used block and had it bored. Got my stock heads stage 3 P&P, new everything with Crower cams. Should be around 9:1 compression. Been waiting for 3 months at the builder and finally got to pick it up. Here is a pic of it right after I picked it up:

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    Got a A1000 Aeromotive fuel system with my tank sumped, 80lb injectors, and SCT big air. Professional Parts Tyhoon intake top to bottom. Looking to run about 15lbs of boost with a Snow water/meth injection kit. ARP Mains and Head studs, Headman LTs. Builder says in the high 500s maybe 600s. Let me know what you guys think. Motor is being installed as we speak, going down to work on it this weekend. I will upload more pics from the build then.

    UPDATE:

    Car is running now, putting on miles for the break in period. Second page has more detailed updates and pictures.

    [​IMG]
    #1
  2. Stumbaugh

    Stumbaugh Member

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    Everything looks good on your list, except that Intake. You really need to sell that intake and buy an Edelbrock Victor Jr with a 6061 Plenum, P51, or even a stock intake.
    #2
  3. nine2oneGT

    nine2oneGT Member

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    I was going to with the Edelbrock Victor but the engine builder (Kotzur Racing Heads) recommended PP. Doubt there is that much difference anyway. :shrug:
    #3
  4. Stumbaugh

    Stumbaugh Member

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    wow, they are the first people I have ever heard recommend PP intakes. There is definitely a good difference between an Edelbrock Victor Jr w/ 6061 Plenum vs a PP intake, plenum, and TB.

    The one good thing is, is that you are running forced induction. So it's going to force the air in the engine no matter what. But I can promise you that with that short block, heads, cams, and that amount of boost, your choke point will definitely be the intake.
    #4
  5. 1fun281

    1fun281 Member

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    Get and edelbrock, and if you want to go above and beyond you can get the edelbrock ported as well, they love boost!!
    #5
  6. Modular2v

    Modular2v Founding Member

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    Build sounds solid, minus the intake! Honestly, i think you would be better off with a stock one. Also, just curious why you decided to go with a a1000? I have built two cars with a returnless, sumped fuel system with an a1000 and they both had problems on the dyno. A good in tank fuel pump with a kbbap would work great with the power range you are looking at.
    #6
  7. nine2oneGT

    nine2oneGT Member

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    Damn now you guys got me all worried about sending it back. I was back and forth on those damn combos for a week at least. The cost is about the same.

    I got the A1000 because eventually this thing is going to be some sort of race car, but it does have a return.
    #7
  8. nine2oneGT

    nine2oneGT Member

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    OK, you guys talked me into it. The other intake hasn't been installed so im going to return it. Got the Edelbrock with the 6061.
    #8
  9. Modular2v

    Modular2v Founding Member

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    good call!!!:nice:
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  10. Stumbaugh

    Stumbaugh Member

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    Nothing wrong with the A1000 combo at all. I know plenty of people running them. If you plan on driving the car a lot, you might want to look into a billet fuel pump controller. It was ease the load on the fuel pump. Returnless is the only way to go!!!!!

    And yes, good call on the intake. You will not be dissapointed!!!
    #10
  11. nine2oneGT

    nine2oneGT Member

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    The system i have has a return. I dont need a controller in that case do I?
    #11
  12. Stumbaugh

    Stumbaugh Member

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    It doesn't matter if it's a return or returnless. It can benefit from a controller. The controller works as a huge relay. You should invest in one if you plan on street driving it much.
    #12
  13. rconaway

    rconaway Founding Member

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    I would also dump the A1000. Not only didn't it keep up with the power when I went over 500hp, I also went through 3 of them. However, I've done a return system conversion. In Arizona they faded and failed. I've changed over to dual Walbro 255's and haven't had a problem since.
    #13
  14. 98COBRA281

    98COBRA281 Active Member

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    edelbrock FTW!!

    [​IMG]
    #14
    2vNotch likes this.
  15. Kornnut

    Kornnut Founding Member

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    :drool:
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  16. Stumbaugh

    Stumbaugh Member

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    If your's was not keeping up at 500hp, then you had something wrong. I know of 5 people off the top of my head that are making over 800rwhp using the A1000's, and they are working flawlessly.

    As I said before, if you put a fuel pump controller on it, it will not burn up.
    #16
  17. rconaway

    rconaway Founding Member

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    Can't tell you anything more than I will sell you the unit I still have that doesn't have 10 hours on it. I drive 60 miles and I'm stranded when the pump overheats and can't pump. I gave up when I munched an engine from fuel starvation and went to the Walbros.
    #17
  18. Modular2v

    Modular2v Founding Member

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    :nice:
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  19. tank_567

    tank_567 Active Member

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    X2

    [​IMG]:nice:
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  20. nine2oneGT

    nine2oneGT Member

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    Idk guys, I already spent the money on the fuel system, and tossed my fuel lines. I am going to be eventually putting out a lot of power so im going to stick with aeromotive. Ill just have to save up for the controller. Any way a really good tuner could do what that controller is doing?

    I went down to do a few things on the car while my Uncle's guys are waiting on the intake. Didnt get to do much but change over a few of the pullies.

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    #20

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