2000 V6 BLOWING FUSE #33

MRKNOTT

New Member
Aug 14, 2011
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In need of some help...at a loss...a little background...don't use the cruise control much, but did a few times this weekend...also ran over a good sized rock ( slow speed )...next day the shifter was stuck in park...I can get around this, but I am without brake lights...Fuse #33 was blown ( handles the brakes light switch, and the cruise control deactivation switch )...that lasted less than 24 hours...put in a new 15amp fuse and did not even have to put in the key...pressed the brake pedal with my hand and the fuse blew...decided to replace the brake switch on the brake pedal arm ( fuses are still blowing )

The #33 fuse blows everytime I press on the brake...driving now without brake lights...looked up underneath, and cannot find any bad wires...opened up the trunk, and check all connections to the brake lights, and they test fine...booklet does not show a relay under the hood...starting to have a feeling that this has nothing to do with the rock that I hit, but something with the cruise control...

Any thoughts, ideas, or similiar experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
 
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First, inspect the transmission DTR shifter under the car for damage.

Next, check fuses F2.17 and F2.35 to see if blown. If blown, this could explain why the shift lock is giving you problems. Of course, the shift lock might not be working because the brake fuse F2.33 is blown.

Remove fuse F2.35 and F2.41 and see if this stops F2.33 from blowing.

If F2.33 does not blow, insert F2.41 and try again. If F2.33 holds this will at least get the brake lights working (confirm).

Do you have a VOM meter and are you willing to use it?
 
First thing I did was check F2.17 & F2.35. Both fuses are fine. I have a cheapo meter, and also pulled them and physically looked at them as well.

Been driving the car for a few days. Just have to turn the key 1/4 turn, place the car in neutral, start car and it drives just fine. Just gets stuck in park if/when you put the car in the park position.

I am somewhat of a novice. Did place the car up on jacks, and looked for damage underneath. Did not notice anything, however I will be honest I would not know what the "transmission DTR shifter" would look like. I was actually looking for any wiring harness that might have exposed wires. I did not see much of any wiring under the car at all.

Happy to do the fuse testing as noted. I do not own a VOM meter.
 
There really isn't an excuse for not owning a VOM meter (your cheapo meter may already do it). Walmart sells serviceable units for less than $10. Radio Shack and Sears sell affordable units as well.

VOM stands for Volts/Ohm Meter.

It's going to be much more difficult to track this down without a VOM to take resistance measurements. Without the VOM, trouble shooting is left to "luck" to find the fault. Or at the very least a ton of fuses will have to give up their lives for the cause.

Seems likely that fuse F2.35 is the culprit. Once confirmed, additional tests will be needed to narrow down the affected subsystem. Cruise control, Shift lock actuator, anti-lock brakes.

Has there been any drink spills in the center console?

OBTW, the transmission DTR selecter is the thing on the lower left side of the transmission that the shift cable attaches to. It's the thing that moves when the gear shift lever is moved from Park to Drive.
 
how come you havent unhooked deactivator switch ????


this switch can be reset also..

f33 is hot at all times..when you hit brake pedal 3 things happen....shift lock gets power,brake lights get power,deactivator gets power going thru them ...

read this

http://www.engine-light-help.com/check-engine-light-circuit-testing.html

it tells how to chase harness for shorts....you already did homework on what gets power from f33..look for connectors in line and shorten the line that the power needs to flow thru..

as with wmburns test which was an easy way to cut some lines off...

here is for deactivator switch resetting

https://acrobat.com/#d=674iJ0zuD0hVUkDRCes-6Q