If you are staying NA and shooting for 300 RWHP you don't honestly need that much. An Induction setup and a free flowing exhaust is really all you need. Exhaust is pretty straightforward: Longtubes, offroad mid-pipe, and aftermarket mufflers. No need to get specific on that. As far as induction, using a CAI will make things shiny, but is nowhere near as important as the following items.
Intake:
That Edelbrock intake you were looking at makes good power past 5500 rpm, but the runners are a little short for decent low end torque.
I would recommend the Trick Flow intake, or if it is actually available now, the
BBK DSI.
Heads:
On the horizon, TFS has a great set of new design 2V heads about to be released for 2K. I don't know if you want to spend that much money though. They do flow enough out of the box to support WELL over 300 RWHP.
SVO heads are available for $549 each (1100 a pair). They will need minor work to support 300 at the wheels, but not much. Maybe none depending on your other mods. If you can score an SVO intake it is already matched to these heads. If you can't, you can port match a set of SVO heads to the PI or TFS intake (it is virtually a SVO/Bullit with the front two runners slightly straightened.
As far as ported PI heads, Patriot has a set of very nice stage 2 ported pi's for $1395. There are many other fine shops that offer ported PI heads that support your power levels.
Camshaft:
You need to look real hard at how high you want to spin your motor, and whether you want a broad torque band, or to maximize high end power. Since the 2V has no cam variation capability, you usually have to sacrifice some low end torque to make top end power. The more radical the cam design, the more dramatic the low end torque loss. Most companies offer profiles for their cams in 3 stages. Many have specific profiles for either NA or Blower profiles. Some will build you a custom grind, maybe at no additional charge. Goes without saying, you should upgrade your springs for any non-stock cam. These are just opinions, please don't take this for gospel.
Stock PI cams make decent torque and power but are designed for fuel economy and emissions. They are a decent improvement over NPI, but are still not really a performance cam. They make peak power at around 5200 RPM in an otherwise stock configuration.
if you don't want to go past 6200 RPM, I would stick with a Stage one cam. Most stage one setups lose no lower end torque, offer fine peak gains of at least 20 hp with the power peak coming higher in the RPM band. They have less post-peak fall-off than stockers often seeing 35 hp differences past 6000 RPM. They have a little bit of lope but not much.
If you are willing to spin it to 6500-7000RPM then use a stage 2. Most stage 2's have a slight drop in low end torque, but mid-range torque and peak power are greatly increased. Power peak is at an even higher RPM, and post peak fall-off is greatly reduced. In some setups, power differences beyond 6000 RPM can be up to 60hp higher than stock. They have a noticable lope at idle. They require PTV clearance checks in most instances.
If you are willing to go to, or go past 7000 RPM, a stage 3 cam is a good choice. It will require checking ptv clearance and most likely flycutting the pistons. You will make a lot of high end power with further reduced drop off. The downside is most stage 3 cams are losing power compared to the stock set up to 4500 RPM. As for how much more they make than stockers, the comparison is pretty moot because the operating ranges are completely different. These cams tend to have a rough idle.
Again, these are just my recommendations. If your opinions are not the same, please don't take any offense, just offer them up for a change of perspective.
If you are wanting some help with anything specific, please let me know.