2003 Mach 1 cornacopia of codes

Rusty67

Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
Seattle area, WA
Hey guys, I'm looking for a little help with my Mach 1. I've been having small issues with it that I've been hunting down. Every time I think I've got something fixed it eventually comes back. Until now the car has never thrown a code. Well, last night while I was driving, the car finally kicked on the check engine light. I pulled the codes and this is what I got.:
P0460 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0112 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input
P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input
P0116 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control
P0190 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0192 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input

The issues I've been having with the car are that when I drive, occasionally the motor just dies and if I'm at a stop I can't just crank the starter to start again. I have to full key off and then key on again. Some times this happens to me on the freeway and I just clutch in, key off, key on and pop the clutch. The car starts humming again.

Another issue I've been having is that mostly at low RPMs in just about any gear, when I'm at a low throttle use liek 10% or so, the engine will shudder like its not getting gas. If I am in 6th and I down shift to 5th and it goes from say 1700 RPM to 2200 RPM then the motor typically runs fine at the higher RPM. Some times under hard acceleration I feel like there isn't enough fuel flowing at the higher RPM maybe 5800 and above but most of the time it is ok on the high end. From the 2500-5000 RPM range I don't recall ever having any issues.

The last issue I've had is a wierd hanging idle. The motor will some times, seemingly for no reason hang at either 3000, 2400 or 1200-1400 RPM. Also, the motor tends to sit at 1100 and then come down to 1000 and then come down again to 800. Some times it dips down to 600 and sits there and I am fairly sure once warm it shouldn't be going below 800-900 at idle. If I have the hanging idle issue while driving the car will run on as if I'm at like 10-15% on the gas pedal and I clutch in the car will stay around 3000 ro 2400 RPM.

Some days the damn thing runs perfectly, other days it runs terrible. Last night it was running the worst it has ever run, constantly dying off the line (not because I'm stalling it), dying on the freeway but no hanging idle issue.

What I've done so far is cleaned the IAC which seemed to resolve the hanging idle issue for a while but it came back so I ended up replacing it with a brand new unit from Ford. This seemed to fix it completely until last week when it happened again after not happening for 2 months. I've also replaced the PCV valve and hose with new units Ford unit because the factory unit had 130,000 miles on it so it needed to be replaced anyways. Upon the advice of a mechanic, I replaced the FRPP with a new unit from Ford. None of these things seems as though they have made any performance difference. Replacing the IAC did help for a while and the car was running flawlessly in terms of the hanging idle issue but it never resolved the shudder at speed or the instant dying. I also recent put a new fuel filter in (from Ford also) as it was time for a new filter anyways.

The fuel pump did go out at 118,00 miles and I replaced it with a parts store brand because it was a Saturday after noon and Ford parts was long closed. I am questioning if the fuel pump itself is bad at this point and that was the next item on my list to look into but now with all these codes I'm not so sure.

I also have a quarter horse installed and it is in bypass mode. I'm considering pulling the quarter horse out as well to see if it resolves the issues.

Any help with this one would be appreciated.
 
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I'm going to wager that the bulk of your troubles are being caused by a single electrical issue, possibly a loose or corroded ground connection or loose crimp, corrosion in the under-hood power distribution box etc.

It's possible you've got a problem in the battery, perhaps a cell that is intermittently open or shorted depending on temperature or vibration.

You might also check the alternator output. Check the DC output at idle and at 2000RPM. Switch the meter to measure AC and check the amount of AC ripple at idle.
 
I cleared the codes with my code reader and they have not come back yet however I did have the CEL flash at me 3 or 4 times the last time I drove it and the car immediately died right after. After restarting the CEL was NOT on.

I doubt it is the battery itself and I recently put in a brand new Odessey, one of the bigger long life batteries instead of the smaller race batteries. I had these issues with the old battery as well.

I will verify the fuses both under the hood and the smaller box on the drives side.

A loose or bad ground is a nightmare to find... I'm hoping that isn't it but it wouldn't surprise me.

I will run the tests on the alternator as well. I will report back once I have checked everything and let you guys know the results.
 
Ok guys, I just went over every single fuse in the car that I know of. The main fuse box under the hood, the single fuse on the passenger side under the hood. The fuse box next to the driver in the passenger compartment. Every fuse was good.

My battery was at 12.5 when the car was off and 14.4-14.5 when the car was running. I reved the motor and the alternator's output held steady.

Trinity, I'm not sure how to check the AC ripple. What am I looking for on the meter when I switch to AC mode ?
 
OK guys, my car has been sitting for WAY too long. I did some work on it today to try and find the issue.

I tried to check the AC ripplpe. I put my metter on in AC mode and was seeing between 26-27v AC with the car off. With the car running I had my dad rev the car up to 1500 and then to 3000rpm. The AC was at 31.2-31.3v AC in that RPM range.

My dad has a 2001 Bullitt which I think has the same alternator. His battery was about the same AC with the car off but in the same 1500-3000rpm range his car was only puting out about 29.2-29.3v AC. Do you guys think the alternator is bad ?

Is there any other test I can run on this car to try and narrow down the problem ?
 
Is there power in and out of fuse F2.2 and F2.8 with the key on?

Next confirm that the engine +5 volt VPWR buss is good. Measure the key on voltage across the TPS BN/WH and GY/RD wires with the key on. Should be around 5 volts. A problem with the VPWR buss could cause every sensor using VPWR to have problem.

OBTW, 31 volts AC of ripple can't be a correct measurement. Normal AC ripple readings should be less than 0.75 volt.

Consider taking the car to your local auto parts stores and have the alternator tested for excessive AC ripple.
 
I figured there must be something with my meter picking up that kind of AC voltage.... Works fine on my house outlets and all other functions work great. Not sure why I'm seeing that.

I called autozone and asked them if their test would check for AC ripple and they said no. Maybe the guy just didn't know what he was talking about. Do you have a favorite parts store ?

The voltage at the TPS connector between those two wires with the key on is 4.98v.

All fuses have been tested by being removed from the car 1 at a time and checked with my DVMM on continuity mode and are good. F2.2 and F2.8 are in the passenger compartment right ?
 
It would be best if you confirmed there is power INTO fuse F2.2 and F2.8. Consider that even if the fuse is good, if there's no power coming in, then there wouldn't be any power out. An example could be a bad ignition switch or bad CCRM.

As for the AC ripple. Are you sure there isn't a missing decimal place? Or if you meter is real fancy, it could be reading true RMS. Try using a cheap meter.

Note, regarding the sensors called out by DTC code. The things that I can think of that the all have in common are:
  • +5 VPWR
  • wiring
  • PCM
IMO, the next step is to confirm +5 volt VPWR to each sensor called out. If the VPWR is good, then that must mean there's a problem in the return signal wiring or the PCM.

Here's a fuse panel layout from allfordmustangs.com
http://please delete me!/forums/2669271-post.html
 
Ok, so I went at it late last night with my big boy pants Fluke DVMM and it was showing 0v AC when the car was off and it was showing 0.00 to 0.01v AC when the car was on and I reved it up.

I'll double check power at those fuses when I get home but I'm fairly certain it is good.

In other news, I got the fuel pressure gague wired in properly and hooked up the sender yesterday while I was looking at stuff. My fuel pressure is all over the place when the motor has performance issues. I'm wondering if a bad fuel pump isn't a major contributing factor to my issues. I might replace the fuel pump this weekend as the one that is in there is a Walbro from Kragen and everyone seems to say they have a 50% failure rate in the first year.

I will report back voltage at the fuses later tonight.
 
Ok, work has been crazy this week but I got to check the voltage of f2.2 and f2.8 tonight. F2.8 was fairly stable and as expected. With the car running, I was seeing 14.36-14.37v very minor fluctuation. II don't think it was abnormal. F2.2 however was wildly fluctuating and never actually settled in on a voltage; it was bouncing around between 13.38-14.2v never stopping.

What exactly do 2.2 and 2.8 control ? The motor is clearly able to run without them in......
 
For the best answer to your questions, a set of wiring diagrams are in order. If interested in getting a full set of diagrams and service manual for yourself I maybe able to help. PM if interested.
 
I do actually have a set of wiring diagrams. I replaced my fuel pump today. I got rid of the junky Walbro pump that was in there and put in a nice/known good/reliable fuel pump.

My main problem is with stuff like fuse f2.2 where I was seeing flapping voltage when testing, I have no idea what the voltages should look like.

I checked my dad's 01 Bullitt on F2.2 and found similar behavior so I suppose that is normal. It looks like it is being fed from the CCRM from the diagram I've got.

Additionally, I got my fuel pressure gauge wired up last weekend and found that when I am driving along and the car dies that the fuel pressure isn't dropping but actually skyrocketing up to about 80 PSI. I guess the ECU is shutting down the motor due to excessively high fuel pressure ?

I am thinking about pulling up the grounding diagram and going through every ground in the car and double checking them for corrosion/bad grounding.

Any suggestions on a next course of action ?
 
Im unsure if your fuel rail pressure sensor is the same as the gt but i ruined the diaphram inside the frps and it caused my car to die and run terrible. i was told when the diaphram is ruptured in the frps high fuel pressure spikes will kill the car because the sensor does not read correct. The sensor is a bit pricey and only through ford about $120. but possibly something you can look into. hope it helps cause this frustrated me for weeks as well in the past.
 
Was driving the car last night and it threw more codes. All about the same except no P0192 and I had a P0102 which is Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Low Input.

I guess the next step is to basically figure out where all this stuff feeds from and look at that as the source of the problem....
 
Ok guys so I have been combing my wiring diagrams and I am trying to figure out what is going on. At this point signs are starting to pointing to a bad ECU.
There are two splices which I have found to be of interest, S126 adn S130.

S126 goes to:
transmission hardware unit (my car is a stick so I don't think this exists in my harness)
3/4 of the O2 sensors
oss
Connects to splice S130
2 - digital transmission range sensor (my car is a stick so I don't think this exists in my harness)

S130 goes to:
other O2 sensor
pcm pin 91 - signal return
coolant temp sensor pin 2
differential pressure sensor pin 2
tps pin 1
FRPP pin 2
camshaft possition sensor pin 1
maf pin 1
fuel pump
to splice S126

My diagram doesn't seem to have the IAT on it so I am not able to figure out how it ties in. The Fuel Level Sensor is likely on a different diagram so I will need to find a diagram for it and see if it ties into the same circuits.

I am seeing codes I can't verify:
P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input
Notice that this talks about the MAP sensor. The only NewEdge Mustang that came with a MAP sensor that I know of is the 03/04 Cobra. The other listed causes for these codes are all relating to the MAP sensor or a bad ECU.

Any input on this ?