2005 gt break in procedures

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Drive it like you stole it - no break in required (don't recommend hitting the red-line for a little while)The engine has already been run and tested at the factory. Also, the computer anlaysis your driving habits and adusts. Have fun!
 
05Stangster said:
Drive it like you stole it - no break in required (don't recommend hitting the red-line for a little while)The engine has already been run and tested at the factory. Also, the computer anlaysis your driving habits and adusts. Have fun!

I agree with the above--I had my car at the track with 300 miles on her, and she went 13.6, with no problems at all to report.
 
There is an older thread on this that included some "different" ideas about breaking in that included:
1) the first 25 miles was the most important
2) Changing the factory oil back to dino oil (factory is a blend)
3) Using heavy loads on the engine (i.e. going 35mph and going to WOT in 5th gear)
4) Varying RPM for first 500 miles.
Just some ideas you may or may not want to try.
I know I hit triple digits on the way home from the dealership and my car still runs like a champ. :nice:
 
ucstang said:
Hello: i am about to receive an 2005 windveil blue gt and was wondering if there are any special brake in procedures that you have heard of or have used?
I'd just suggest to change your oil at 500 miles, than at 1500 miles, than at 3000 miles and every 3000 after that.
 
ucstang said:
Hello: i am about to receive an 2005 windveil blue gt and was wondering if there are any special brake in procedures that you have heard of or have used?

The break in was done the first 25 miles. Drive it like you stole it!

I did a smoky standing still burnout with 50 miles on mine, Now with 4K miles - everything is fine - doesn't burn a drop of oil
 
While the old 1,000 mile break-in of yesteryear may not be necessary, it doesn't mean much of anything if you have a few hundred miles and aren't burning any oil "yet". Saying "I've got a few thousand miles on mine after driving it hard, and it's running great" doesn't mean a thing.

An engine that wasn't broken in correctly (even the old ones that weren't seated at the factory) didn't necessarily fall apart within 100 miles of driving them hard without proper break-in.
 
iammilo said:
While the old 1,000 mile break-in of yesteryear may not be necessary, it doesn't mean much of anything if you have a few hundred miles and aren't burning any oil "yet". Saying "I've got a few thousand miles on mine after driving it hard, and it's running great" doesn't mean a thing.

An engine that wasn't broken in correctly (even the old ones that weren't seated at the factory) didn't necessarily fall apart within 100 miles of driving them hard without proper break-in.

:shrug: Other than basically saying that none of the previous post had anything to offer what did you bring to the conversation? I'm wondering what your magic number is Obi-wan? :nonono:
 
iammilo said:
While the old 1,000 mile break-in of yesteryear may not be necessary, it doesn't mean much of anything if you have a few hundred miles and aren't burning any oil "yet". Saying "I've got a few thousand miles on mine after driving it hard, and it's running great" doesn't mean a thing.

An engine that wasn't broken in correctly (even the old ones that weren't seated at the factory) didn't necessarily fall apart within 100 miles of driving them hard without proper break-in.

My primary point was that the break in was done in the first 25 miles. And, more than likely it was done during testing before it left the factory. Get over it and drive the car.
 
Setting the rings and sealing the hone is done in the first 20 to 25 miles. If you don't bang on it then you won't work the cross hatching in and seal the rings. For the most part all races engines are slapped on a dyno and tested for a couple of hours from idle to redline.

As someone said early, drive it like you stole it except don't jump any curbs doing 80mph.