262rwhp

I agree with everyone who said to ditch the spark plugs. Go with Autolite, it's what Trick Flow says to use in the packet you get with the heads. I heard somewhere that some plugs don't reach far enough into the combustion chamber. It's an easy fix, that is what i would start with. Is your valvetrain adjusted correctly? The stud mount rockers can be tricky.
 
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Pro Mod said:
I have the exact same cam and I installed it straight-up. My AFR/TFS Stage 1 cam/Cobra intake/bolt-on 5.0 made 292/318 and it was completely untuned. You should be in that ballpark.

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You ran pretty lean there! (untuned per your post) - and what was with a flat torque curve between 2,000~2,900 rpm? You go from ~15:1 to ~14:1 in that band but the torque did not respnd to the change in A/F. And, you have a higher velocity intake than the Track Heat the poster has.
 
advance the timing.. 17 Degrees is where you need to be.. i have ported E7's.. .533/.544 lift cam.. i see 260 horse.. i'd pulled the valve covers off.. check and see if the guy didnt screw you
 
I have to agree with the plugs. Try the Autolites and see how that works for you. I have the Trickflow Street Heat top end kit installed on mine. I pulled 311 rwhp on a Mustang Dyno.

I'm not as concerned with that starting 17 A/F under one condition. If that was still at part throttle cruise when the recording process had started. That's not a big deal at that point. If the dyno operator was on the throttle at that point, be concerned. That needs to be tuned out. Fatten up the A/F.

Change the plugs, make sure base timing and base fuel pressure are set to the standards that your tuner advises. If you don't know what My SCT tune uses 10 degrees and 39 psi at idle.

I run full emissions and cats as well
 
well a copper plug will be a little colder and let you run more timing. and every car is different so try a/f adjustments some n/a cars like 12-1 some like 14-1 you have to find what yours like same with timing 14 maybe20 who knows? just keep tring theres more there probably.
 
Sorry to jack the thread, but I put iridium plugs in my car and when I put them in it felt a little boggier (not THAT noticeable, however gas mileage was) but I figured it was just a little mind game. After reading this thread, am I still crazy? Or should I swap them out and put in the plane janes?
 
tmoss said:
You ran pretty lean there! (untuned per your post) - and what was with a flat torque curve between 2,000~2,900 rpm? You go from ~15:1 to ~14:1 in that band but the torque did not respnd to the change in A/F. And, you have a higher velocity intake than the Track Heat the poster has.

yeah I would have liked to have had my A/F down to 13:1, but I didn't get the chance to bump my fuel pressure up any. I always thought the torqe curve looked flat from 2000-2900, but I assume it's just the nature of the TFS Stage 1 cam? When driving the car, it never felt like it had a lack of "low-end"...
 
Yeah and see mine I would have to say its boggy on the bottom end and comes alive around 3800 rpms. Before that it just feels like, theres something there, its just working to hard to get it....kinda like the car is confused if you know what i mean. The power just comes in in stages....pulls hard in this rpm, then backs off, then starts pullin hard again, then backs off...untill it gets to 3800, then my tach is buried before I know it.
 
ditch the plat. plugs, bump up the timing, maybe pull the valve covers and check the valve lash. how many miles on the rebuild when you had the dyno pull done? was it completely broken in....motor might just be tight!
 
I use one of the plugs that Trick Flow recommends on the spec sheet, probably the autolites now that I think about it. I also set the timing to 16 or 18 degrees using the stock pointer (I've never degreed the thing for TDC- should've done that when the damn heads were off!), but they definitely like more timing than the iron E7's. Before I put the heads on I took one of them to AutoZone and threaded the plug in the head to make sure it stuck into the chamber the right distance, it was damn perfect so go with what T.F. recommends.
 
micks90lx said:
there was 1500 miles on it. I guess I will get some new plugs and run the timing up to about 15. valve lash will be the last resort considering id have to take the intake off.

I set mine at 1/4 turn after zero lash. Try more timing, keep bumping it up until you get a little pinging at WOT and then back it off about 2 degrees (4 if you wanna be on the safe side).
 
Bosch platinum +4 plugs are crap...a sales gimmic imo.

A friend of my brothers bought them on sale for 1/2 price and threw them in his 92 stock 5.0L stang.
The engine had a slightly rougher idle,pinged more and just didn`t seem to have the same acceleration as before.He pulled them out after 500 miles and threw them in the garbage,and threw in copper core plugs.Problems solved.

Copper core plugs are what you want in a performance engine,as copper is a much better conductor of electricity than platinum.

Platinum plugs are for the average car driver that wants to try and go 100k before changing plugs.They last longer,that`s it.For performance they suck.
 
yeah viking thats what mine are set at right now is a 1/4 turn after zero lash also. I do remember that when putting the stud girdles on. well I will go get some plugs tomorrow i guess. I was just looking at the spec sheet, has anybody ran the NGK plugs? they were on there and I use to have great luck with them in my bikes....just dont know about the cars
 
micks90lx said:
yeah viking thats what mine are set at right now is a 1/4 turn after zero lash also. I do remember that when putting the stud girdles on. well I will go get some plugs tomorrow i guess. I was just looking at the spec sheet, has anybody ran the NGK plugs? they were on there and I use to have great luck with them in my bikes....just dont know about the cars

I have NGK V-Groove copper core UR45`s,(I think that`s the number)in my car.No complaints.
 
Well considering stock you would make around 175hp to the wheels, you made 87hp more. Thats not too bad. Everyone expects bigger numbers that they come out with. Trust me I know. My car made 225rwhp w/ the install of my procharger. I was very disapointed. I should have made around 350rwhp. You just have to mess around with it more and you can get more out of it.